I have fitted a pro shift paddle shift to my Mk hayabusa bur now Ian thinking of fitting a standard gear lever ie push pull lever to run in
conjunction with the paddle shift
My reason being it would act as a back up if the paddle shift system was to fail and it makes it easier to find neutral
Any comments on what you think would be great. And we're the best place to buy a gear lever and cable ... Pics of what you run would help to ie:
the gear system
I've got a self made paddle on mine. Works well and no problem finding neutral.
A second lever just complicates things and adds extra weight.
Adi,
I think the pro-shift is electrical so he wants a lever as a mechanical backup.
That's how I currently run mine - electric paddles on the wheel but I retain the stick based shift on the trans tunnel.
The stick shift came first and my electric shift actuator just pushes and pulls the same solid linkage.
And it is a bit easier to find neutral with the stick as with electric paddles you don't have as much feedback, half shifts are possible to find
neutral it just takes a bit of practise.
Doh! Should read slower.Ignore my post above.
I run both and really like it (stick came first, kliktronic was afterfit). With the full-throttle upshift the ignition cut is very quick, brilliant
for fast upshifts when going some. But if pootling in traffic, shifting up can be a real "clonk" because the power is fed on too quick. In
this instance it's nice to have a manual stick to do it the "old fashioned" way. It's also better for finding neutral. But
mainly it's fun watching passenger surprise as it moves by itself
That's what I want , source the cable just need a gear lever
Your not reading the post correctly I have a full proshift paddle shift fitted including flat up and down shift ... Read again
quote:
Originally posted by noc231073
Your not reading the post correctly I have a full proshift paddle shift fitted including flat up and down shift ... Read again
With my build, I had opted for a gearstick, then bought MNR paddles and intended using cables with a Flatshifter...
Then we moved to buttons on the wheel linked to a Flatshifter & Pingel & no gearstick, now I am going to have a gearstick wih cables and the
Flatshifter/Pingel setup will run along side it..
So if it all goes tits I can still change gear.
Noc, I bought my mk busa with klicktronic system fitted, and the flat shift spark cut. It's great for up shifting flat out, a pain around town as
you know. The thing that Peed me off the most was that you loose the feel on down shifts, with any kind of electronic down shift, unless you have
complicated, expensive rev/gear/speed balancing system.(no point on mk) it just doesn't work.I don't care if people say 'you need to be
skillfull at matching rev speed on a down change'.... It's utter poo. I ripped mine out, and fitted a manual shift.
You know where you you are on down changes then, when riding hard. The thing is, flat out down shifts should be close to pinging the limiter, without
putting to much stress on the little bike engine....something I would like to feel, rather than hitting a button at the wrong time, and ooooops, rod
through the block!
Having said all of that, I still want the flat upshift, so I'd go with the dynojet flat shift, linkage.(not got it myself, but seems to be the
ideal).
I've had quite bait of experience of racing cars with all types and the best is by far,(and the norm) of a stick, flat upshift, with manual
down.
Apologies for the rant but had a few beers! Its dead easy to make you own stick gear leaver. Let me know if you want pics.
Cheers
Monkey
what is the point in having both a paddleshift & a gear lever?? talking to andy bates he told me an automatic gives the gearbox a hard time anyway
hence my decision to go manual
[Edited on 4/2/11 by andyfiggy2002]