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Author: Subject: Honda S2000 F20 Engine - Heat Soak/Hot Intake
z2000

posted on 1/4/17 at 09:07 AM Reply With Quote
Honda S2000 F20 Engine - Heat Soak/Hot Intake

Hi all,

Wonder if anyone can help with some advice....

I have a GBS Zero with the Honda S2000 F20 engine fitted. It had some overheating issues when I first got the car running as I was using the standard GBS fan which is pants. I swapped this for a decent 16" high flow rate Kenlowe and now when running up to temp (idling) it will get up to 92 deg, then fan kicks in and takes it down to 88 fairly quickly.
So I know the engine temperature can be controlled fairly well.

My main problem now is that the temperature sensor on the huge lumpy aluminium intake manifold will read around 15-20 degrees whilst driving (I'm assuming the air flow is keeping it's temperature down) but when stopped at a junction for a short time it creeps up to 25...30..35 and then cools down once driving again. I have also changed the air intake routing slightly and have a naca scoop in the nose feeding directly onto the air filter which goes through 65mm dia hose to the intake.

Last year I had the same issue but on a long drive with some stopping, I was getting heat soak where the intake temp was going to 50/60 degrees plus and I assume causing the fuel to vapour lock.

I want to make sure this issue doesn't come back otherwise it's a long wait for the intake to cool down before I can drive off again.

Has anybody with the F20 engine experienced this too? Or anyone have any good suggestions to help fix this? I do know it can be a bit of a problem on the normal S2000 car so perhaps a change of intake, although expensive, would be the ultimate best way forward......

Thanks!

Henry



[Edited on 1/4/2017 by z2000]





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mackei23b

posted on 1/4/17 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
My Duratec would see these temperatures at idle as well circa 35 degrees.

I was advised that this temperature can occur when there was little airflow and it was likely to be correct.

Cheers
Ian

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z2000

posted on 1/4/17 at 01:21 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Ian. I need to give it another test to see how bad it gets on a long run. I have also read up a little more about the normal S2000 having heat soak problems. I think perhaps I just need to try it out and keep an eye on things. Previously I would be out on a long run and when going through villages and stopping a lot the heat would rise and eventually it would conk out on me! Then it'll take half an hour to cool down.

I did have an issue with the fuel getting warm, I assume from the intake then going back to the swirl pot before going back to the tank. Eventually the whole fuel system was warm! so unless I am pumping far too much fuel around, then it's simply the intake heat from the engine.

Perhaps I could try a smaller fuel pump or a fuel cooler to keep the intake cool?

I was thinking about sticking some temperature probes on the fuel swirl pot and the tank to keep an eye on the temperatures.





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davew823

posted on 2/4/17 at 10:53 AM Reply With Quote
Honda gasket

Look on E-bay for a thermal heat shield gasket. In the states the F 20 Honda intake goes for about $50.
Dave W

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unijacko67

posted on 3/4/17 at 01:01 AM Reply With Quote
air lock ?? I had a slightly different set up with itb's and electric water pump and it was unbelievably hard to get all the air out even with a bleed valve fitted directly to the inlet manifold. probably not your issue, but worth a mention.





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z2000

posted on 3/4/17 at 05:12 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks - I'm not sure if it is an air lock since when running normally the fan will kick in and cool the engine down then turn off. This will repeat whilst idling, moderate driving etc. Makes me think the water system is doing it's job correctly?

The problem is with sitting stationary in traffic after some time of driving where the intake temp will keep going up and the engine doesn't. Then when I drive off, it will cool down.

Perhaps there could be an air lock stopping the intake being cooled? But from this Honda diagram, I am unsure of what cooling the intake has....



My alternative theory, based on the fact last summer even my rear fuel tank was getting warm! is that the fuel gets warm in the fuel rail and too much is sent there by the HP pump so lots of warm fuel comes back to the swirl pot so with the combination of after a long drive there is less fuel and the fact the fuel is warming up, maybe I am seeing fuel vapour locking due to the engine simply heating the fuel up and it's not actually the hot intake temperature when stationary that I need to worry about but more the fuel system? I had tweaked the fuel system at the end of the summer with a dead head fuel rail and after market fuel pressure regulator but this made the engine run lumpy so I have swapped back for now.

Anyone think it could be the fuel system? I think my HP pump could be pumping a bit too much fuel possibly? Maybe I put a T in before the fuel rail to send some fuel back or downgrade my pump?

Thanks!





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jeffw

posted on 3/4/17 at 05:18 AM Reply With Quote
Something like this

https://h-tune.co.uk/skunk2-thermal-intake-manifold-gasket-honda-s2000/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwwoLHBRDD0beVheu3lt0BEiQAvU4CKkXWuDuz07zZjrGhq4ZsYy1a-_3B0ZkSSwVM Jk8pcLgaArEK8P8HAQ

will cure your problem. The issue will be heat transfer into the plenum from the engine.






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z2000

posted on 3/4/17 at 05:54 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks Jeff.

Do you think the gasket alone will be enough to stop the fuel getting warm, if there is a lot of it going back to the tanks?

Cheers





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unijacko67

posted on 3/4/17 at 06:59 AM Reply With Quote
Don't think it will be your pumps. I've got an old standard inlet somewhere, I'll send a picture tonight of the water galleries, again as Jeff says, but mine was OK on a standard gasket as all s2000 are. I had a problem with fuel getting hot on the rollers and I mean very very hot and it didn't stop the engine running but solved that by re fitting exhaust further away from tank. Having said that the exhaust was red hot and set fire to the rubber mounts, only an issue on rollers.





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z2000

posted on 3/4/17 at 08:53 AM Reply With Quote
I could only put the warm fuel tank down to heat from the intake warming fuel rail then warming the return fuel (assuming far too much sent to the fuel rail) so when it went back it would warm the swirl pot, then excess would warm the rear tank.

The swirl pot is on the intake side of the engine, approx. 2-3 inches to the side and inline with the engine/gearbox split line. I have since wrapped the swirl pot in thermal matting to try and keep away any heat radiating towards it but equally if the heat is in the fuel, this would actually keep the fuel warm>

I've contemplated an inline fuel cooler to cool it down, like a small oil cooler.

I'd like to have some slow meters on the fuel lines and temperatures gauges too. That would help me understand the heat and flow rates at least.





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jeffw

posted on 3/4/17 at 10:00 AM Reply With Quote
I think you are over complicating the issue. Fit a Phenolic spacer between the inlet and head and most, if not all, of your issues will go away.

[Edited on 3/4/17 by jeffw]






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z2000

posted on 3/4/17 at 10:33 AM Reply With Quote
Okay thanks Jeff.

Will try fitting a thermal gasket/spacer to reduce the heat transfer





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Rocket_Rabbit

posted on 7/4/17 at 04:44 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah, there isn't really much you can do. The S2000 suffers from this and I have tried CAI, maps, thermal gaskets and it still happens.

Got ITBs to fit now, hopefully that'll help!






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