hello all.

(Its a zx9c by the way )

Im starting working through the loom today, to make sure ive understood it and have all the bits i need. In the picture below, i think top left if the CDI, top right is the reg/rec, bottom left is a fuse box and bottom right is a spare box, if memory serves its not off a zx9. Can anyone confirm these parts? Cheers.
Rescued attachment bec 001.JPG

also, ISTR that these parts can overheat when fitted. Is it worth putting a fan on either the cdi or the regulator? Or just put it in the airflow.

The cdi, fuse box and reg/rec are as you said but i haven't got the box in the bottom right on my zx9 c

Matt

From your picture I have all but the bottom right unit on my car so the spare unit could well be off another bike.

The rectifier unit does get warm, but I've mounted it in a place where it'll get reasonable airflow. The ECU/CDI unit doesn't seem to get warm at all.

HTH
Steve

PS Nice engine choice BTW :-)

i noticed a few more bits im missing Ive got no fuel pump relay, then again, my car already has a bike pump fitted so i might not change the fueling.

no clocks, not the end of the world for now. It will run without them though, wont it?

Is the fan switch in the radiator? Might just use my existing rad then.

Speedo sender, is this on the engine? Ive found the plug on the loom but no sign of where it plugs in.

There is no clutch cable, just the hole beside the oil filler hole. Where do i get one and how does it all connect?!

Do you use both throttle cables or just one? Extra springs maybe?

How the hell do you get the sprocket off?! Ive tried impact wrench and normal wrench, but it just spins when in gear. Im thinking i need a chain to hold it still.

Sorry for all the questions guys Any ideas?

My car starts and runs without clocks (as I stupidly found out when tracing wires with the battery still connected - doh!)

I have no cooling fan. Plumbed as per Ben Marriott's diagram with a cortina rad, it has never overheated, even with prolonged stationary periods.

Speedo sensor takes a feed from a sensor just above the sprocket. Using hall effect of the sprocket bolts, it still works when a sprocket adaptor is in place. The signal, fed through a yellowbox can be calibrated correctly for the bike clocks.

The hole by the oil filler cap should contain a clutch lever arm that actuates the clutch. I have a set of engine drawings that I can send you if you like.

I used only one throttle cable. the second one (to close the throttles) was replaced by a external spring at the carb end. On their own the normal carb springs weren't man enough to shut the throttle quick enough.

I had no sprocket on my engine. I would think that if it was in gear it shouldn't be spinning that easily?

HTH
Steve

engine does run without the clocks.

fan switch is in the rad.

the speedo sender is in a cover around the front spocket but this weill have to come off to fit the sprocket adapter.

as for the cables i haven't got that far yet i just have a bit of string as my throttle.

getting the front spocket off took me absolutly ages i eventually did it with a 4 foot metal pole with 2 m8 bolts through it with nuts along the length of the bolt (m8 nuts fit the shape of the sprocket teeth very well) and then slotted it on to the sprocket to stop it turning, then hoped i could still fit a socket on the nut. (not the best of descriptions, think i've still got it somewhere so can take a photo if u need it)

Matt

Makes sure it's in 1st gear - the gearing will assist you in getting the sprocket nut loosened.

If you are going to use the bike clocks I have some in the workshop that are looking for new home

dave, u2u on its way

cheers for the tips everyone else. The bar with bolts seems best so far - in gear it turns the full engine over, even with the impact wrench (which i feel bad using). Thats with the lock tab folded back too.

Existing bike fuel pump will be ok.
Yes it will run without clocks.
I use micra rad switch, works fine.
Speedo sender is mounted in sprocket cover, you have to make a bracket for it..
Clutch should have a lever/operating arm fitted into the hole (dont panic i have a spare one)
One throttle cable works fine
Removing sprocket with engine out is fun, but persevere it is possible.
If i was you i'd buy some uprated clutch springs and fit them while its easy to work on. (only about £20)




Originally posted by JoelP
i noticed a few more bits im missing Ive got no fuel pump relay, then again, my car already has a bike pump fitted so i might not change the fueling.

no clocks, not the end of the world for now. It will run without them though, wont it?

Is the fan switch in the radiator? Might just use my existing rad then.

Speedo sender, is this on the engine? Ive found the plug on the loom but no sign of where it plugs in.

There is no clutch cable, just the hole beside the oil filler hole. Where do i get one and how does it all connect?!

Do you use both throttle cables or just one? Extra springs maybe?

How the hell do you get the sprocket off?! Ive tried impact wrench and normal wrench, but it just spins when in gear. Im thinking i need a chain to hold it still.

Sorry for all the questions guys Any ideas?

quote:

---

Originally posted by Wadders
If i was you i'd buy some uprated clutch springs and fit them while its easy to work on. (only about £20)

---

Don't bother with EBC springs they are worse than standard. Get barnett ones, I've had no problems with them

Andy

quote:

---

Originally posted by Andy W
Don't bother with EBC springs they are worse than standard. Get barnett ones, I've had no problems with them

Andy

---

Don't panic Joel, they're dead easy to change, just remove the clutch cover, and then swap them one by one, each one is held in by a 6mm bolt. As for the clutch lever, buy me a pint and its yours!

That sounds like good advice, but its just another daunting task to do - ive never done any work inside engines/clutches/gearboxes before. How hard?

My engine has no lever for the clutch, in fact, neither does! How much to part you with your spare alan?

cheers Al! Stick it in ya van, next time you pass marks just leave it with him, you can choose between a pint (or two!) or a drive at teesside if i get it finished!

No problem, this might also be of interest

http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1028









Originally posted by JoelP
cheers Al! Stick it in ya van, next time you pass marks just leave it with him, you can choose between a pint (or two!) or a drive at teesside if i get it finished!

cheers again, i was trying to remember the name of his site!

Hi there

Loks like the fuse box of a ZX(R B series), box on the bottom left of picture

Cheers

Ian

cheers mate.

ive now ordered the sprocket adapter. Just wondering what i should use for a clutch cable? I found a lever on the other engine, which is annoying - means that neither engine is totally compete and i'll have to arrange bits.

Theres two pipes that come up between the carbs and join. Anyone know what these are? The fuel pipes are underneath.

quote:

---

Theres two pipes that come up between the carbs and join. Anyone know what these are? The fuel pipes are underneath

---

and if your doing the clutch dont forget a new clutch cover gasket '

worth the £10

carb heater it might well be, do i keep or ditch?!

Damn, more gaskets... that paper is annoying stuff! Gonna order some barnett springs so i guess i'll have to get a new gasket.

cheers chaps!

Hi JoeLP.
Can you change your avatar? I think it's that that's atracting the white stuff falling here.
Think sunshine
Regards Kipper.

you're right, out with the white, in with the red

Red sky at night bloody hell the garage is on fire........
Kipper

that gasket paper is crap bollox to it...

Anyone know what this pipe in the sump does, its too long now the sump is chopped. Do i just chop it shorter?

still wondering about clutch cable
Rescued attachment pipe.JPG

It's a return pipe isn't it, I cut mine so it didn't kink on the sump bottom. Find a trail bike clutch cable with the same end fitting, they are longer because of the fork travel usually or you can have one made up at some bike shops.

lovely, i chopped it off and refitted the sump. Sprocket came off after a few minutes fiddling. In the end i just wedged a 4 inch piece of square tube between the stand and a tooth, and the impact wrench eventually spun it off.

Tomorrow im ordering the barnett heavy duty springs, but not the plates yet as i feel thats a triffle adventurous! Springs sound well easy judging by the haynes description.

Am i right in thinking that i can combine the ignition switch with the stop switch, if i replace the ignition fuse that would be bypassed by the current not passing through the fuse box? Alternatively, i might just skip the whole fuse box as its getting changed quite a lot.

Cheers!

does anyone know what i can use for the gearshifter? its just a splined shaft out of the box at the minute. Are the splines standard, can i order a random one off fleebay? Or anyone got a spare?

one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CR-RM-GEAR-LEVER-14MM-REPAIR-BLOCK_W0QQitemZ8041077204QQcategoryZ9946QQcmdZViewItem

[Edited on 2/3/06 by Gav]

will that definately fit/work? it says weld on, id rather removable...

why would you want to remove it from the gear arm!

you wernt thinking of the welding it the gear shaft?

lol, maybe i misread that!

cheers for the link dude, need to measure the shaft to make sure now

if you look at the sellers shop the also do different sizes

I found a GPZ500 linkage in the scrap at the bike shop and got it just for asking. It fits the ZX9 gear shaft.

mine seems to have a 10mm spline, so im going to get an old kwak one off ebay cheers all.

got the old one out. time to get cutting and welding!
Rescued attachment engine 003.JPG

Just look at all that useless weight. Tut, tut, tut.

you'd think, but i still nearly ran myself over trying to push it into the garage

Ready for surgery now doc

As for the engine cradle, im thinking of putting a perminant bar in on the drivers side, to bolt the gearbox end onto, then having a bolt down thing that bolts onto the two mounts on the back of the head/block, and leave off the underside one. Sound like an ok plan?

ps, the gearlever off a vtr1000 is a perfect fit.

[Edited on 9/3/06 by JoelP]

Well, its time to test fit the engine. Is it really a one man job? I can lift it, but my back tend to object when it comes to manouvering it - and i cant imagine how you end up with a hand free to put any bolts in. Can it be done? My crane doesnt fit inside the garage, and damned if im doing it outside in this weather!

It can be done but if you're in any doubt whatsoever, then get someone to give you a helping hand to do it. You don't want to injure your back, so be careful.

Phil

I managed to mount my blade engine by myself but it rests on the top tubes.

Although when i was lifting it out for the 4th time my foot slipped on some oil and my back took the full brunt of it
hurt like hell for next week...

You're right phil, not a one man job fortunately got the afternoon off tomorrow, so i'll grip up my accomplices on the way home!

the first bolt hole is 2 inches lower than the top rail, directly under it, plus i think the bottom bar on the n/s will need chopping out.

[Edited on 12/3/06 by JoelP]

I made a cradle to support the engine before I tried to fit it in the chassis. If nothing else it would give you something to lift by holding onto the tubing.
Rescued attachment cradle6.jpg

Here
Rescued attachment cradle2.jpg

Good advice Pete, thats the principle of the ST cradle, much easier to drop into place, already attached to the motor. Although i admit to using the block and tackle, not that i'm soft or owt you understand, it's just a question of ahem... fine control when lowering.

nice to see yours at a similar height to mine pete! The gearbox mounts are 2" under the top rail, i need to hang it off these, support it in place and then make the supports for the other mounts, which will be removable. Im thinking it will balance on the two by the head, so i just unbolt the gearbox end and lift out the engine with the removable frame attached. Clear as mud that?

I left some of the top mounts sticking up with a hole drilled through them. I can bolt the end of my hoist chain straight to them with 2 M12s.

what a bastard that proved to be - had to take off the oil filter to get it in.

One lesson learned, dont put the brackets directly under a bar as its a twat to get it in then! Should've moved it a few inches further and had diagonal brackets.

Reason i didnt do a full removable cradle is that its hard to get the dimensions right when its not in the car.

been making the gear shifter tonight, damn its cold out there

These heavy duty springs are taking a long time to arrive, do you (anyone!) think its ok to use the standard ones for a few weeks, then change oil and springs once its all working?

Ive also got the original exhaust off the bike, is it worth trying to use bits of it, either welded (it titanium i think) or sleeved? Not sure theres time to get one made before the 27th.

I need a new oil filter too, never owned a bike so i dont really know where to get one. Do motor factors stock bike parts normally, or do i have to find a bike dealer?

And finally, theres two pipes that head down to the oil filter, im guessing water to cool it, one is plumbed in already but the other just has a bolt in the end. Is this how it meant to be? Besides these, i can only see two main water pipes, i guess these go to the radiator, but is there meant to be an expansion tank in there? If so, hows it best to have that?

Sorry for all the questions!

ps got the prop ordered today.

buzzing, got the cradle finished. You wouldnt believe how happy that made me, once i took the jack out! Prop is ready saturday, i need an apointment for the exhaust next. Main headache i see now is the clutch cable, but im going to try the bike cable approach and see how far i get. Still need the 100ohm resistor, but the wiring is well easy as far as i can tell. I chopped all the loom around when i first bought it, so its all nicely ready to go in! Hopefully looking at a friends zx9 soon so the plumbing should sort itself out.

I get the nagging feeling ive forgotten something, today i realised i probably need to source a silencer ASAP!

Sounds like your making good progress joel!

The other pipe is plumbed into the bottom hose Joel. If you use plumbing fittings you can get 28mm x 15mm T then take it down to 8mm with a microbore fitting or a 22mm x 15mm if you have a Micra rad. The oil filter will be from a bike shop or MPS catalogue, check thefastone .100 ohms resistor was about 15p



[Edited on 16/3/06 by Peteff]

IT LIVES!!!!

Well done Joel.

Mine too! Although mine is no where near as significant a swap as yours. Just took a ZZR1100 C out and put a ZZR1100 D in. Fired up tonight, just got it settled into idle, when I got told to stop (SWIMBO mentioned it was 9pm and the car is right below the little one's room!!).

See you Monday!

nice one, its a big stress having a deadline isnt it!

finally im about finished. Im tempted to go for a spin now, but theres always a few things left to do - like make brackets for everything ive just fitted, change the gearbox bolt, threadlock the prop in, refit the radiator, repanel the tunnel, fit the clocks, then abuse it all day tomorrow and fix whatever breaks!

Im so happy

to close this little saga, that engine swap is the best thing ive ever done. The cars absolutely mental now. Phenominal in fact. Id have to recommend it to anyone who is addicted to speed

My clutch cable gave up when i was out, its ridiculously easy even without it. I didnt even have to blip the throttle for downshifts, probably because im used to car engines so the revs werent too high. Absolute madness.

5 mins to fix it and then back to 'testing'. If i dont make it back, its been fun.

How much quicker is it - in percentage terms or however you care to measure it ?

The car was a fairly quick little beast anyway - is it just incredibly quicker ?

(I've never been in a BEC)

my bro asked for a percentage, its not possible to say really. I fumbled through the corners due to a poor gearchange mechanism (and a possible bent fork), but once it opens up on the straights its mental, munching through the gears

If you pass by, i'll show you