FirebladeST
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 11:12 AM |
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Fireblade gears get knocked into neutral
hello - newbie to this game - bought a stuart taylor locoblade recently and didnt have the experience of building it, so i might be asking osme pretty
obvious stuff - anyway i want to learn about it now and have already taken some bits off and put back on and want to know more. firstly, my gearbox
really clunks through 1st and sencond. ive heard this slack is normal, however, if i hit a few pot holes or uneven stretch of road sometimes it pops
out of gear and into neutral and have to cruch the gears back in. is there anything to correct this, sometimes have to drive with my hand on the gear
stick more than id like to help prevent it. the guy i bought it off said he had put some heave duty elastic bands round - i think - the prop shaft but
took them off when he sold it.
anyone any suggestions?
also - how hard / expensive is it to change gearbox / clutch if anything goes wrong?
Cheers!
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 11:22 AM |
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do you mean it jumps to neutral from any gear?
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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slimtater
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 11:23 AM |
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It can take time and patience to set up the gear change and clutch to feel just right, but jumping out of gear is more of a problem. That would
suggest either a gearbox problem or some serious vibration or play somewhere within the drivetrain.
As for the elastic bands ?????
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/19919222
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FirebladeST
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 11:26 AM |
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it happens from any gear i think - it only happens on some road where ill hit a few bumps one after each other and its almost like the resonance of
several bumos does it - pretty frustrating - put it this way - my bmw saloon would anhilate it on any thing but the smoothest of roads!
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 11:28 AM |
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yeah, the elastic bands was interesting  the only thing i can think of is he's put them on to stop the gearlever rattling back and forward and
maybe accidentally changing gear, but ?
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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slimtater
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 11:38 AM |
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Not sure how it can keep ending up in neutral - neutral is between 1st and 2nd gear? Unless the vibration is so bad it changes down the box until it
reaches N!
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/19919222
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 12:03 PM |
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To be honest it sounds like a knackered selector or worse the actual gears are on there way out - maybe missing teeth.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but if treated without a level of mechanical sympathy, bike boxes can be fragile things.
Hopefully it won;t be, and someone more knowledgeable than me will be along to give you a third, less drastic, diagnosis.
Where are you in the country? I can recommend AB performance for all things fireblade, if you are close it might be worth getting Andy to cast his
experienced eye over it?
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FirebladeST
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 12:37 PM |
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near leeds
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oldtimer
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 12:39 PM |
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Do you mean false neutrals rather than jumping from,. say, 3rd to neutral?? Could be signs of wear. Elastic bands round the prop shaft sounds bizare.
Clutch replacement sbould be simple, gearbox replacement not. I agree with earlier posts that you need this checking by an experienced fireblade
locost builder.
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gingerprince
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| posted on 9/5/09 at 03:37 PM |
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Having to "crunch" it back into gear is a classic sign of having found a false neutral. i.e. you haven't gone to real neutral
between 1st and 2nd, but the dogs have disengaged.
Guess would be that either your selector forks are bent and thus your gears are only partially engaged, or you have worn dogs - basically the lugs and
grooves have rounded edges and slip out. This could have been caused by sloppy gear linkage.
Both will involve some dismantling work, though the forks I think can be done without splitting the case.
But before doing that, I'd be tempted to check the linkage over and make sure you're getting a full range of movement. It could be as
simple as the lever doesn't move quite far enough to full engage. Might not be this, but test to look at the cheaper and easier options first!
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