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Author: Subject: VIN Stamping
dwebber597

posted on 23/2/17 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
VIN Stamping

Afternoon

Is there anyone on here that does VIN stamping? I'm looking at getting a piece of box section stamped up for my chassis.

Thanks

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nick205

posted on 23/2/17 at 02:39 PM Reply With Quote
IIRC a set alpha-numeric of punches can be bought for not a lot of money and I suspect you've got a hammer. One thing to be careful of stamping on box section is not to hit the punch too hard and dent/deform the box section. I've seen some on here stamp a strip of sheet then weld it onto the chassis.






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pekwah1

posted on 23/2/17 at 02:41 PM Reply With Quote
I have some letter stamps i don't need.
They're basically unused as i was concerned about deforming the chassis as well.

I ended up buying an "engraver" and a letter stencil which did a very good job!

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Toprivetguns

posted on 23/2/17 at 03:28 PM Reply With Quote
Dremel with a diamond tip cutter, then stencil out what letters and numbers needed. Much easier and less chance of deforming the box section.

[Edited on 23/2/17 by Toprivetguns]





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dwebber597

posted on 23/2/17 at 03:34 PM Reply With Quote
I was thinking of using a Dremel, but a bit unsure of what finish i would get.
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tims31

posted on 23/2/17 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
Have a chat with trextr7monkey

He offered manufacturer plates may also do VIN plates.



http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=207603





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pekwah1

posted on 23/2/17 at 04:28 PM Reply With Quote
Just bear in mind any plate that you have stamped/etched will need to be fully seam welded to the chassis if this is indeed the chassis plate we are reffering to.
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dwebber597

posted on 23/2/17 at 04:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Just bear in mind any plate that you have stamped/etched will need to be fully seam welded to the chassis if this is indeed the chassis plate we are reffering to.


Yup thats the one. I was originally seam weld but some IVA centres/testers dont like it so i decided to weld a new piece of box section in to keep them happy

[Edited on 23/2/17 by dwebber597]

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907

posted on 23/2/17 at 04:55 PM Reply With Quote
This is an area where the rules have been written by a "person" at a desk with no comprehension of crime of criminals.

I had to have the stamping witnessed by either a main dealership or a garage with MOT status.
My local garage charged me £10 for this but they did let me try the brakes out on their rollers and said if it had have been
an MOT test it would have passed.


The stamping of a plate and butt or fillet welding (there's no such thing as seam welding) into or onto the chassis is the
easiest thing in the world to change. If its welded on, then it can be ground off, and another welded on and no one can tell
the difference.


When you arrive at IVA the first thing they check is the number on the paperwork, and then check it against the number
on the chassis. What is the point of a garage witness if it's checked at a government IVA station?


Paul G





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myke pocock

posted on 23/2/17 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
Did mine with a Dremel. If you havent got a steady hand get someone who has to do it. Would be a shame to fail just on that alone if you weld it on.
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dwebber597

posted on 23/2/17 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the advice gents, gonna get myself a dremel and etch it on
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pekwah1

posted on 23/2/17 at 08:57 PM Reply With Quote
I used one of these if it helps, did a good job!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/5nr/Dremel-Hobby-Engraver-290-3-Compact-Accessories-Stencils/B002LARRRQ

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ianhurley20

posted on 24/2/17 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
I did mine with a Lidl cheap dremel at an early stage of the build. Then I changed the engine from a pinto to an MX5 . The new mounts covered the number. Did it again on the top rail - equinox bodywork covered that one. Third time lucky. May be worth leaving until quite late in the build when you are sure its not going to be masked with anything - and don't forget its got to be front right ish side of the car :-)





My build blog http://ianhaynes20.wordpress.com IVA passed 3/10/16
written off 23/9/18
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Now restoring 1968 Ginetta G4
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nick205

posted on 24/2/17 at 10:25 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ianhurley20
I did mine with a Lidl cheap dremel at an early stage of the build. Then I changed the engine from a pinto to an MX5 . The new mounts covered the number. Did it again on the top rail - equinox bodywork covered that one. Third time lucky. May be worth leaving until quite late in the build when you are sure its not going to be masked with anything - and don't forget its got to be front right ish side of the car :-)



Good point - I did mine at the end of the build the week before the SVA test.






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dwebber597

posted on 24/2/17 at 12:37 PM Reply With Quote
Thats a very good and valid point. Another job to be added to the end of the build
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907

posted on 24/2/17 at 01:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ianhurley20
I did mine with a Lidl cheap dremel at an early stage of the build. Then I changed the engine from a pinto to an MX5 . The new mounts covered the number. Did it again on the top rail - equinox bodywork covered that one. Third time lucky. May be worth leaving until quite late in the build when you are sure its not going to be masked with anything - and don't forget its got to be front right ish side of the car :-)




I know what you mean. I cut a slot in the bodywork as that was easier than re-stamping.

Paul G

Description
Description






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Dean m

posted on 24/2/17 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
Would it be acceptable to pop rivet a plate on?
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Slinky

posted on 15/5/17 at 02:42 PM Reply With Quote
`VIN stamping

Try Bespoke Vehicle Developments. They offer that service. Slinky.
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40inches

posted on 15/5/17 at 03:03 PM Reply With Quote
I used a very cheap Lidl battery powered engraver, about £3 I think. printed the number using word and engraved through the paper
and the chassis paint.
Description
Description

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dwebber597

posted on 15/5/17 at 03:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slinky
Try Bespoke Vehicle Developments. They offer that service. Slinky.


Thanks, Thats just what i was after

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CosKev3

posted on 15/5/17 at 03:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dean m
Would it be acceptable to pop rivet a plate on?


No!they won't accept spot welding so not a sniff pop riveting will pass.

I think stamping the box section looks awful,like Westfield do.I've never seen one that hasn't deformed the box section.

Ref it's easier to alter a welded on plate,I don't agree.
It's just as easy to flatten down stamped in/etched in numbers as it is to cut off a welded plate!

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907

posted on 15/5/17 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3


Ref it's easier to alter a welded on plate,I don't agree.
It's just as easy to flatten down stamped in/etched in numbers as it is to cut off a welded plate!





If you grind off a welded on plate all you have to do is make the new plate a little bigger so it covers up the grind marks.
Hey presto, a new number with no evidence of the old one.


I defy anyone to grind off, flatten, and re-stamp, without it showing that it's been altered.


Paul G

p.s.

The stamped number on the chassis is one thing, but the vin plate with chassis number & manufacturer is another.
My Vin plate is held on with M4 screws.

[Edited on 15/5/17 by 907]





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CosKev3

posted on 15/5/17 at 04:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3


Ref it's easier to alter a welded on plate,I don't agree.
It's just as easy to flatten down stamped in/etched in numbers as it is to cut off a welded plate!





If you grind off a welded on plate all you have to do is make the new plate a little bigger so it covers up the grind marks.
Hey presto, a new number with no evidence of the old one.


I defy anyone to grind off, flatten, and re-stamp, without it showing that it's been altered.


Paul G


Not rocket science!

You wouldn't restamp it,you would weld a plate over the flattened area.

At the end of the day none of the ways of marking the chassis number on a kit car are fully secure .

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 15/5/17 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
Regarding the deformation of rhe tube, could you not insert a piece of hardwood as backing, then remove wood and weld tube in place.
or if you are not bothered, you could leave wood in place (small weight penalty)





Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....

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AdrianH

posted on 15/5/17 at 04:14 PM Reply With Quote
Some time ago I offered to do VIN numbers milled/engraved into a chassis tube such as this:
Machined Dummy Vin no.
Machined Dummy Vin no.
in 25 x 2mm wall box
I stopped because the CNC mill lost it's computer! and a few were not to happy paying for it, perhaps someone on here has the capabilities of a small CNC mill to start the idea again.

Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
Build diary at http://www.tamarisktechnicals.com/pages/roadster.html

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