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Author: Subject: Heap of f###ing sh#t
nick-york

posted on 30/1/18 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
Heap of f###ing sh#t

Just spent 3 hours trying to get the digidash working ! If you see my previous posts on here you'll see what I've been doing .Anyhow everything on the dash seemed to be working fine .I could go onto the settings and put any data in .set the clock no problem .the only problem being when I turned my battery isolater off it also switched the clock off and cleared the time and anything else I put in it .so I thought won't take long to put a live in straight from the battery .The isolater cuts off the negative supply from the battery .so anyhow now the clock never comes up .certain lights flash on dash .i cant go onto the different settings or put any settings in ! It was all virtually sorted till tonight and i am at my end of the teather !! All this time for ssod all ! The instructions with the dash are basic and hard to work out! There's nothing about potential problems and remedies .And No I haven't connected the white set wire to positive! I was very careful about that because it was clear on the instructions that that would destroy the dash .so what the he'll could it be please ??
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40inches

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
Can you rewire it as it was to get it working, then fit a 3amp fuse to bypass the isolater to maintain a feed?
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r1_pete

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
If the isolator cuts the neg, then you also need to add a method of supplying a neg to the dash, as above a fuse across the isolator would be ideal.

At the moment as soon as you isolate you kill power to the dash.

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nick-york

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Can you rewire it as it was to get it working, then fit a 3amp fuse to bypass the isolater to maintain a feed?
hi .that's exactly what I have done .I've tried swapping wires around and nothing makes any difference and nothing works like it did before .the only wires I've swapped around are the earth wires from the direct earth from the battery and the earth which goes to the isolater switch .I just can't understand why it doesn't work .Cheers.

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Nickp

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:17 PM Reply With Quote
What dash is it? Acewell?
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nick-york

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
What dash is it? Acewell?
yeah 6456 .

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loggyboy

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:26 PM Reply With Quote
Maybe try and rewire the isolator properly? (ie to live)



[Edited on 30-1-18 by loggyboy]





Mistral Motorsport

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nick-york

posted on 30/1/18 at 09:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Maybe try and rewire the isolator properly? (ie to live)



[Edited on 30-1-18 by loggyboy]
yeah that might be the answer .Cheers. But I'd also like to know why the dash doesn't work properly if anybody has any idea ? Cheers .

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tims31

posted on 31/1/18 at 04:05 AM Reply With Quote
Make sure also that you have the wires correctly going to live or earth as per the diagram I posted last time. Some may look like they are live but go back to earth.

On Plug Q the Yellow wire down to the end of the plug all should be going to earth.







Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/

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Nickp

posted on 31/1/18 at 06:41 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nick-york
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
What dash is it? Acewell?
yeah 6456 .


Same as mine. The one I got was wired wrong from the factory. It had the perm+ and ign+ crossed either side of the main plug. Not sure if this has anything to do with your issue but worth checking the colour of the wires in and out of the connector plugs.

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dinosaurjuice

posted on 31/1/18 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
All these problems are down to your wiring and isolator position, calling the dash a heap of SH*t is a bit harsh
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nick-york

posted on 1/2/18 at 06:25 PM Reply With Quote
well most of yesterday afternoon and till 10 last night i was trying to sort this out ! Ive put a new battery isolater in that now cuts off the positive supply from the battery.I tried the dash again but it still didn't work and did less than yesterday ! So basically it seems that the dash is knackered and thats over £200 down the drain !! Ive also double checked every connection with my multimeter and all the negatives are negative and all the positives are positive all as they should be .The indicater ,main beam , hazard warning lights etc still work correctly as they a have.So nothing related to the switches on dashboard.The turning point was when i connected a negative wire directly from the battery to the negative wire to the dash.straightforward enough !Up until that point everything was working except when i turned the isolated off the clock and data were lost .So logically what i did should of worked!Im totally convinced that all my wiring is correct.Im just totally fed up !! Car not going to be back on the road for a long time now Im not an expert on these things but the only reason i can think it could possibly be is due to the isolater on the battery originally been from the negative on the battery.Could this mean that other parts of the dash were 'Switched on" when they shouldn't of been ?Hope this makes sense .Its difficult to explain .I just need to know whats happened and why before i decide what to do next .More help urgently needed please ? Cheers
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tims31

posted on 2/2/18 at 10:25 AM Reply With Quote
As a temporary solution have you tried to wire the dash up without the isolator in the loop at all, does it all work then?





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40inches

posted on 2/2/18 at 10:57 AM Reply With Quote
Do you really need the isolator?
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ken555

posted on 2/2/18 at 11:21 AM Reply With Quote
I wonder if the lack of an earth via the wire, caused it to "Feedback" to an earth via one of the lights/sensors and caused a problem?

Breaking the live, leaving an earth is the safer option.






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ReMan

posted on 2/2/18 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
I think you may have inadvertently used the dash unit as a route to earth of all the other loads whist he isolator was open on the earth side and the dash connected directly to earth and fried it?





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nick-york

posted on 2/2/18 at 03:54 PM Reply With Quote
Yesterday as I was in the process of fitting the new isolater I did try the dash to see if it worked without the isolater but no difference. Still broke .I know I could manage without an isolater but I would prefer to have one for the extra security it brings. Now it's isolating the positive side I'm a lot happier .But it seems something was definitely frazzled ! Any more theories welcome please .Cheers.
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wylliezx9r

posted on 2/2/18 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
I think you may have inadvertently used the dash unit as a route to earth of all the other loads whist he isolator was open on the earth side and the dash connected directly to earth and fried it?


This ^

Why did you choose to wire your isolator incorrectly in the first place ?





I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.
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nick-york

posted on 2/2/18 at 05:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by wylliezx9r
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
I think you may have inadvertently used the dash unit as a route to earth of all the other loads whist he isolator was open on the earth side and the dash connected directly to earth and fried it?


This ^

Why did you choose to wire your isolator incorrectly in the first place ?
not me ! That's how it was wired when I bought the car .some people wire them up that way as the preferred way evidently. It's never made any difference to me until now .

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02GF74

posted on 4/2/18 at 12:10 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nick-york
.some people wire them up that way as they don't know better.


Would be a more accurate description.

Without a circuit diagram and not seeing good what you did, we can only speculate that the dash is damage by having I have positive applied without the correct earth, as said above.

Sorry to say it looks like new dash time

Last thing to try is removed all plugs apart from the power a different earth and see if it works, then refit one connector at a time.






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nick-york

posted on 4/2/18 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
Hi I've tried plugging the connectors in one at a time and testing everything bit by bit .changing to different earths and nothing changes .Still broke .It's a case of what to do next .If I'm completely sure that the initial problem is fixed (isolater on positive feed now ).Then I would certainly risk another £200 on an identical digidash .It should just connect to the existing connectors still in the car and work. On the other hand if I did that and it didn't work. Well I'd probably give up and sell the car! Is it worth the risk or should I go for a cheaper set up? Cheers
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02GF74

posted on 4/2/18 at 12:09 PM Reply With Quote
since what I wrote above, been thinking about the isolator in the earth and or positive. Generally it is the live (positive) that is disconnected and you want to make earth connection first - if you look at power connectors, or even usb plug, they are designed so the earth (0V ) contact is made first.

Was this the reason why your dash died, hard to say. (oh, as an added precaution fit a quick blow fuse to the dash if you go that route, see the spec but 500 mA should be enough).

So what to do?
Options:
1. try another £ 200 dash - but what if the same happens, soon becomes very expensive.
2. try a cheaper dash, a quick look on web throws up shows Koso DB-01RN at £ 100, so less money wasted.
3. ye olde fashion analogue gauges, either separate ones e.g. Smiths, Jaeger, Tim or VDO, you'll want the set to match and you should be able to pick up matching fuel, temp, water quite cheaply, speedo and rev counter may be more expensive (I have racetech electronic speedo in mine, just checked price and that is quite expensive). Indicators are simple bulbs. This set up is quite hard to destroy and cheapish to replace.
4. can of petrol and a match and claim on insurance.

you'll need to spend a bit of time looking at alternative, on ebay seller: rmsoutlet
check out the range of matching 52 mm gauges, cheapish - may be other that may suit.


oh, and if I were to offer an opinion, since we do not know the cause nor if it has been fixed, I would not risk go for the same gauge but for a lower cost option - I personally would choose separate analogue gauges and bulbs, although that needs more dashboard area, they generally are more robust and being separate only one needs to be replace at a time. If all of them are damaged, then there is some serious fault in the electric system. ... you can always fit them and wire them one at a time, starting with the cheapest, and as you grow more confident, plug in the others.

[Edited on 4/2/18 by 02GF74]






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Toys2

posted on 4/2/18 at 01:13 PM Reply With Quote
Bit of a confusing thread to follow...... I'll try to help if I can

What happens now when you power it up - anything - nothing - lights - display?

If nothing, I would really start at the basics
Please follow this exactly, missing, ignoring or modifying a step may fudge the results and hinder fault finding


1. Disconnect EVERYTHING, even better to remove the dash from the car altogether

2. Try what "NICKP" said, check that the cores match either side of the plugs - particularly connector B

3. Then connect ONLY the following wires on Connector B
Do this DIRECTLY to the battery, and NOT through your cars loom (which is why it's really import to have everything else disconnected)
- GND - Black > to the negative terminal on the battery
- Clock Power - Brown > to the positive terminal on the battery (ideally through a small fuse, but not essential)

What was the result - clock on? Not sure if it comes on at this stage on this model dash

4. Now connect - on connector B again
- Switch Key - Red - to the positive terminal on the battery (ideally through a small fuse, but not essential)

What was the results - Display on?

Let us know the results, I'm sure someone can chip in

[Edited on 4/2/18 by Toys2]

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nick-york

posted on 4/2/18 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Toys2
Bit of a confusing thread to follow...... I'll try to help if I can

What happens now when you power it up - anything - nothing - lights - display?

If nothing, I would really start at the basics
Please follow this exactly, missing, ignoring or modifying a step may fudge the results and hinder fault finding


1. Disconnect EVERYTHING, even better to remove the dash from the car altogether

2. Try what "NICKP" said, check that the cores match either side of the plugs - particularly connector B

3. Then connect ONLY the following wires on Connector B
Do this DIRECTLY to the battery, and NOT through your cars loom (which is why it's really import to have everything else disconnected)
- GND - Black > to the negative terminal on the battery
- Clock Power - Brown > to the positive terminal on the battery (ideally through a small fuse, but not essential)

What was the result - clock on? Not sure if it comes on at this stage on this model dash

4. Now connect - on connector B again
- Switch Key - Red - to the positive terminal on the battery (ideally through a small fuse, but not essential)

What was the results - Display on?

Let us know the results, I'm sure someone can chip in

[Edited on 4/2/18 by Toys2]
Hi I 'll try that wiring tomorrow evening since the car is kept 40 miles from where I live otherwise I'd of done that now .I took the digidash off the dashboard yesterday so it'll be easy to test again.Cheers

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ReMan

posted on 4/2/18 at 06:09 PM Reply With Quote
Agreed do those basics. Will show if he thing has any life leftt in it or completely foobarred.
If seemingly foobarred, there is still a possibility it has inbuilt protection, such as a discrete fuse, so before you crush it.....





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