Daf
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 07:52 PM |
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Laser cutting (or alternative)
Hey all,
Seeing as there's no topgear to watch tonight I'm sure you'll all be on here instead!
I have drawing up some brackets for my rear brakes and would like to have them laser cut - can anybody recommend somewhere that will do this for me?
Cheers
Daf
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davidimurray
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 08:02 PM |
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I used Doncaster laser services a while back.brilliant service and cheapest I could find.
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Daf
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 08:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by davidimurray
I used Doncaster laser services a while back.brilliant service and cheapest I could find.
Cool thanks - I'll fire them an email for a quote!
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Ugg10
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 08:31 PM |
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Lasermaster in cornwall. I have had a 10mm ally inlet adaptor and some 5mm mild steel plates for engine mounts made and will be organising a 10mm
steel exhaust flange this week. Submit a request with dwg file on their website, they usually get back within a couple of day (prices were suprisingly
cheap), call them up with a credit card and usually delivered in a week. I can't fault their service so far. Recommended.
http://www.lasermaster.co.uk/
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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Davey D
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 10:52 PM |
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Where abouts in the UK are you?
We get loads of material flame/plasma/laser cut for different jobs.
we use Charles day steel, and PP profiles which are both Yorkshire way out, and TiffTech in Grimsby for the odd job. Doncaster laser kept bugging me
to give them a chance to quote for some work and they were very expensive compared to our usual suppliers
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BenB
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 11:00 PM |
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I've used laser-eng.com and they were great. Looks like they've been bought out though. Worth an e-mail though
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dave_424
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 12:25 AM |
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Another vote for doncaster laser, was approx half the price of 5 other places I got quotes from, excellent accuracy. I've had holes cut for
small tap drill sizes, diameter was right on the money so straight in with the tap.
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Daf
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 11:00 AM |
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Some good advice here guys many thanks - I'll turn my plywood bracket into a dxf later and get some quotes!
Cheers
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tims31
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 11:16 AM |
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Laserfab here in Spalding have a good reputation although I've never used them but a few on here have and
have had good words to say about them..
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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Ugg10
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 11:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Daf
Some good advice here guys many thanks - I'll turn my plywood bracket into a dxf later and get some quotes!
Cheers
If you have autocad and a scanner, I have found the easiest way is
1) scan the object with a 30cm ruler besides the object
2) Import the scanned image into autocad (type imageattach command into the propmpt)
3) put in a couple of construction lines at say 0, 150,300mm
4) scale the imported image so the ruler lines match the construction lines
5) start to design on top of the image - basically tracing the outline/holes etc.
6) tidy up to bring all of the holes in line / re-sizing stuff etc. if required.
I have used this a couple of times successfully for an inlet adaptor, engine mounts, gearbox mount and will be doing the same for an exhaust flange,
easier to copy a gasket and go from there than start from scratch with dimensions.
Hope this helps.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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Daf
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 12:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
quote:
Originally posted by Daf
Some good advice here guys many thanks - I'll turn my plywood bracket into a dxf later and get some quotes!
Cheers
If you have autocad and a scanner, I have found the easiest way is
1) scan the object with a 30cm ruler besides the object
2) Import the scanned image into autocad (type imageattach command into the propmpt)
3) put in a couple of construction lines at say 0, 150,300mm
4) scale the imported image so the ruler lines match the construction lines
5) start to design on top of the image - basically tracing the outline/holes etc.
6) tidy up to bring all of the holes in line / re-sizing stuff etc. if required.
I have used this a couple of times successfully for an inlet adaptor, engine mounts, gearbox mount and will be doing the same for an exhaust flange,
easier to copy a gasket and go from there than start from scratch with dimensions.
Hope this helps.
Good tip thanks - should be okay though, I have the "pleasure" of doing stuff like this day in day out with work!
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Ugg10
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 01:22 PM |
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Daf, no problems, thought I'd post this as [most] people can get autocad if they have kids at college/school (obviously for their offspring to
learn on and do the CAD for them).
I guess you are using something a bit more meaty than autocad. I had the pleasure of learning CAD on Computervision Medusa before migrating to CADDS5
and have also used Variametrix in the past. Not used any CAD system for about 10 years but found AutoCAD not the most intuitive drafting tool and a
lot of tools that I expected to be there were line commands (like picking the tangent off a curve for adding lines ?). Seems most people have migrated
to Solid Edge these days unless they are using the high end stuff like Catia.
Have fun.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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mcerd1
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 02:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
found AutoCAD not the most intuitive drafting tool and a lot of tools that I expected to be there were line commands (like picking the tangent off a
curve for adding lines ?)
You just need to turn the tangent snap on first  if its one you use all the time then you leave it on by default...
I'd agree that its not the easiest one to learn but it is one of the most flexible (we still use it for making the nice looking drawings to give
the customers)
I've used nearly every day for 16 years now, so if anyone needs any hints on using it just ask...
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