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Author: Subject: bias bar adjustment
rodgling

posted on 6/5/15 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
bias bar adjustment

Just replaced a master cylinder with a different type and it turns out that the new one has a slightly longer push-rod, hence the bias bar is now quite a way off parallel (to the bulkhead) under normal braking load. Otherwise everything seems fine.

How critical is this, do I need to trim the push-rod down or is this OK?

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The Black Flash

posted on 6/5/15 at 09:20 PM Reply With Quote
You have to make sure it's not binding at the edges, and if it's too far out of parallel, you won't get proper effort in both circuits - there are a few guides on the web, here's one:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/images/brakeclutchpartsl/Merlin%20Motorsport%20OBP.pdf

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The Black Flash

posted on 6/5/15 at 09:20 PM Reply With Quote
You have to make sure it's not binding at the edges, and if it's too far out of parallel, you won't get proper effort in both circuits - there are a few guides on the web, here's one:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/images/brakeclutchpartsl/Merlin%20Motorsport%20OBP.pdf

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joneh

posted on 6/5/15 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
id assume your brakes are no longer balanced. Follow this guide or get them set up before heavy braking.

https://obpltd.wordpress.com/2010/07/30/how-to-set-up-a-race-pedal-box-bias-bar-tech-session/

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rodgling

posted on 6/5/15 at 09:50 PM Reply With Quote
It's not binding at any point and I'm aware I will need to adjust the bias before using them.

Not sure what you mean by "not getting proper effect in both circuits"?

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rodgling

posted on 7/5/15 at 08:03 PM Reply With Quote
Decided I wasn't happy with it so took the master cylinder out and trimmed 1cm off the push rod. Nice and straight now. I guess if nothing else I have saved myself 4.3 grams...

[Edited on 7/5/15 by rodgling]

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