baslow
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| posted on 24/6/15 at 07:13 AM |
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Good feedback guys.
I think i'm just going to go with what i have currently and see what the day brings and then spend loads of money from there! General consensus
is that 048's will be plenty grippy enough although more expensive to replace.
So my main concern is now the baffle / overfill and accusump. I understand what the accusump / overfill does but what about the baffle? should i get
all three and what sort of cost do you think i should be looking at?
Again a newbie to this so would't feel confident of fitting this myself... Any idea of rough labour costs?
cheers
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 24/6/15 at 08:17 AM |
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not heard of many people using an accusump with a blade engine, most use a baffle plate and decent sump like you can get from andy bates
http://www.abperformance.co.uk/products.aspx?cat=11&scat=32 with a 250ml overfill and have no issues.
its easy enough to fit yourself but isn't much of a job so shouldn't cost much even if you pay someone to do it, would expect an hours
labour at most.
[Edited on 24/6/15 by bigfoot4616]
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 24/6/15 at 08:35 AM |
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Can you get the sump off with the engine fitted ?
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 24/6/15 at 05:00 PM |
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should be able to, i could when i had a blade engine and can with the current R1. having said that if the bottom of the engine bay is paneled it would
make more work.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 24/6/15 at 05:14 PM |
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you can pull the sump off mine in situ, I panelled around the sump.
My sump is the original cut down to the oil spill valve and plated over.
Acusump is easy to fit, the oil pressure sender sits in a big steel bung at the end of the oil gantry, just unscrew, drill out a 1/2" hole and
carefully weld the female end of a 1/2" BSP hydraulic fitting then get a hose made up to mate with the 1/2" BSP fitting on the
accusump.
I know it's working buzzing around as it gets very hot so must be replacing oil on hard bends.
Car is Rose jointed, I have had a couple of little fracture cracks apperaring around the bone mounting brackets so have welded up and braced, you just
need to keep on top of things, it may have done this with ordinary tyres and rubber bushes....
[Edited on 24/6/15 by mark chandler]
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baslow
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| posted on 24/6/15 at 09:09 PM |
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i've had it on jacks tonight trying to program Digi gear indicator whcih just will not work! (have another post on this)
i checked it out though and as Marks says it is panelled around the sump so i have full access. it also looks like there is more than enough space as
the engine is raised around 60mm. So, am i right in saying once the sump is off the baffle sits inside this? Or does it replace it? Is there anyway to
tell is one has already been fitted without taking the sump off?
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 25/6/15 at 08:00 AM |
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on my old 919 blade motor(not sure which yours is and not sure if later ones are the same) the baffle plate was sandwiched between the sump and bottom
of the casing with a gasket both sides of the baffle. if you knew what you where looking at you could tell it was there with the sump attached.
the R1 i have now is different as in the baffle sits inside completely.
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 25/6/15 at 08:10 AM |
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I would recommend getting one of AB performances billet sumps. I run slicks and aero and have never had any oil problems on track days or competitive
sprints.
Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.
Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.
Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.
www.t89.co.uk
www.racecarwings.co.uk
callan@t89.co.uk
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