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Author: Subject: how to unlock caterham super7 wheel lock
hughpinder

posted on 30/10/17 at 01:43 PM Reply With Quote
how to unlock caterham super7 wheel lock

Hi everyone
I have just bought a bit of a project car. It has caterham super 7 16" alloys with locking cover plates, but I have no key for the cover plates. They look like just 3 holes about 3 mm dia.

They look like this:

Do you need a special key, or is it just a matter of making something up with 3 pins at the appropriate spacing and unscrewing?

Thanks all
Hugh

ETA: picture is a bit big! Unfortunately the holes dont show up very well on less large images I have tried.

[Edited on 30/10/17 by hughpinder]

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gremlin1234

posted on 30/10/17 at 01:55 PM Reply With Quote
easier image
Description
Description

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hughpinder

posted on 30/10/17 at 01:57 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks mr gremlin
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obfripper

posted on 30/10/17 at 02:11 PM Reply With Quote
Some good 90° circlip pliers inserted in opposing holes usually works with a bit of a wriggle.
Replace with an ordinary allen cap head bolt, or buy a locking bolt kit for a vauxhall(assuming the old bolt is m8).
Have a look at: https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=210414

Dave

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nick205

posted on 30/10/17 at 02:36 PM Reply With Quote
Do you want to keep/reuse the wheels?

I've removed locking wheels nuts in the pas by MIG welding a nut or short bolt to the offending part and using thread to unscrew the nut.

Did have some photos of it, but can't find them!

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nick205

posted on 30/10/17 at 02:38 PM Reply With Quote
One other thought - is it worth calling Caterham to see if they have a suitable key you buy?
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russbost

posted on 30/10/17 at 02:48 PM Reply With Quote
Renault use a very similar system, I just use a pair of long nose pliers in mine, if you need a bit of extra leverage, then just put the ends of pliers or circlip pliers in 2 of the holes & use screwdriver for leverage between the arms





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hughpinder

posted on 30/10/17 at 02:53 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks all.
I scanned the caterham site and couldn't find anything, but they may respond to a phone call. If not I'll soon make up something suitable with the welder, or replace with M8 cap heads
Regards
Hugh

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sdh2903

posted on 30/10/17 at 02:59 PM Reply With Quote
This is the key my lads twingo uses.

wheel key

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ian locostzx9rc2

posted on 30/10/17 at 03:03 PM Reply With Quote
As said good pair of long nose or circlip pliers or hammer and chisel and replace them with a nice Allen bolt
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craigdiver

posted on 30/10/17 at 04:57 PM Reply With Quote
If it doesn’t budge, rather than welding on to it you could drill a hole in the centre and use an easy-out.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

Volvo C30 T5 Polestar

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rusty nuts

posted on 30/10/17 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
If it doesn't budge then use a small pin punch and a hammer
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madteg

posted on 30/10/17 at 06:46 PM Reply With Quote
Drill down the centre wit 10mm and then a 13mm, when the drill hits the chamfer the nut will snap off. remove thread with mole grips
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hughpinder

posted on 1/11/17 at 09:36 AM Reply With Quote
Well thanks for the replies. I don't know when the wheels were last off, but its like the locks are welded in - have snapped some allen keys I was using as the 'pins' . Have dosed with looooads of penetratign fluid and will let you know how it goes. I don't really want to try and drill them out if I can avoid it.
Hugh

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craigdiver

posted on 1/11/17 at 09:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hughpinder
Well thanks for the replies. I don't know when the wheels were last off, but its like the locks are welded in - have snapped some allen keys I was using as the 'pins' . Have dosed with looooads of penetratign fluid and will let you know how it goes. I don't really want to try and drill them out if I can avoid it.
Hugh


I think, as madteg suggested, drill the head off it then remove the wheel, you will still have a good bit of thread to grab after soaking it (and leaving overnight) with your favourite penetrating release oil (WD40 etc.)





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

Volvo C30 T5 Polestar

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hughpinder

posted on 1/11/17 at 10:02 AM Reply With Quote
I suspect you are right - I am quire surprised that they are not hardened so that they cannot be drilled!
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rusty nuts

posted on 1/11/17 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
I regularly come across this problem and as I posted use a pin punch,works every time.
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hughpinder

posted on 2/11/17 at 09:01 AM Reply With Quote
I will have a go again at the weekend - pin punch and drills are at the ready!
Thanks everyone

[Edited on 2/11/17 by hughpinder]

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loggyboy

posted on 2/11/17 at 09:21 AM Reply With Quote
As mentioned, an old pair of needle nose that you dont mind bending a little (and plenty of lube)!





Mistral Motorsport

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bonzoronnie

posted on 2/11/17 at 09:56 AM Reply With Quote
At the risk of teaching a hen to suck eggs.

It may help if you give them a couple of sharp taps on the head of them with a hammer & large punch.
This will often help to release the corrosion bond.

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