ewanspence
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 posted on 19/4/02 at 10:38 AM |
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front prop shaft modification
Yes, some sad gits do have front props too.
I have the choice of a 2mm wall tube or a 5mm wall tube to lengthen the 2 halfs. 1 is 28in long, the other is 18 in long and both require lengthening.
Which should I use? The power is 66/34 spit rear to front front the standard engine the BHP is around 150.
Here is a link to the diagram I am using. http://www.geocities.com/ewanspence/front_prop.jpg
I have successfully shortened my rear prop and it runs very true with negligable off balance measureable by clock gauge.
Ewan.
Visit the MegaGrip site :-
http://www.geocities.com/ewanspence/
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Dunc
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| posted on 19/4/02 at 12:06 PM |
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There's more to it than just wall thickness, overall tube diameter, maximum shaft rpm and maximum torque. What diameter of tube are you using? If it
is less than 25mm I would recommend using a solid bar but that's just my opinion. If you don't want to do all the hard sums, work out the front diff
ratio, look at the diameter of the front drive shafts and make a guess. Otherwise send me the dimensions and I'll calculate it all for you.
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 19/4/02 at 11:09 PM |
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Hi Ewan.
If its the shafts like the back ones - about 30mm in dia, I have some info.
They are hardened steel. Solid.
I mounted my granada/sierra diff centrally. Wrong. The shafts are slightly different lengths.
So, I had my dad cut and weld a long shaft down to suit. I recon that was a bad idea.
Now the shaft will not be hardened unless its heat treated.
And I know jack about that.
Another way is to apparently get the splines lengthened on a long shaft, then cut the excess ends off, thereby removing any need to cut and join
anything.
I had angled faces put on my halves, and had them oxy welded. You will need good penetration (but then who doesnt!).
Perhaps getting them hardened is a matter of getting em really hot and dunking them in water, but im an electronics guy so dont take my word on
that.
Bottom line - you cant just cut and weld - the shafts are solid hardened steel.
ATB
Steve
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James
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| posted on 20/4/02 at 01:23 PM |
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quote:
Perhaps getting them hardened is a matter of getting em really hot and dunking them in water, but im an electronics guy so dont take my word on
that.
That's how we did it when making scribes in school!
What mind taxing fun that was too!
We just used to heat them up using the brazing torch and dunk them in.
I think it was said you could do it more than once if you wanted it harder but (obviously I guess) more brittle.
I've a feeling I've heard of people dipping things like this in oil to harden them but I may have dreamed that up!!
James
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Liam
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| posted on 22/4/02 at 01:40 PM |
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Hi Ewan,
So you've abandoned the two-piece front prop idea, have you?
What are you doing about the possibility of the front prop disengaging past the oil seal if your engine moves around too much in relation to the front
diff.
It's looking like a two piece for me, to get it past my engine. My engine will hardly move at all, but I'm thinking of having a sliding joint
between the two pieces of front prop for piece of mind.
You're really trucking along with this car - do you not need to work or something? Looks like I have no chance of being the first 4x4
Liam
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ewanspence
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| posted on 29/4/02 at 01:36 PM |
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Liam,
No I am still going the 2 pice route. As you say the engine can't move much but I will still have the splined joint in the middle. But to use the
bits I have (original front pro and additional jack shift) I will need to cut them both, see the diagram in my original post for the spliting and
joining. I plan to use a 5mm od tube. Was't aware they were hardened, cutt very easily with a grinder?
By the way the satdard rear prop from the sierra has a splined joint in the middle, it is the same spline as the front prop and jack shift.
Yes, I am moving along nicely but there is still al long way to go.
Ewan.
Ewan.
Visit the MegaGrip site :-
http://www.geocities.com/ewanspence/
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