JohnFol
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 posted on 29/4/02 at 02:25 PM |
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Shortening single piece prop shaft
Having spent time cleaning, sanding, and painting a single piece prop off an 1100 Escort, I read "The Book" and find I need to cut it. "The Book"
talks about cutting it "about 4 inches short, divide by 2, add half inch, think of the first number you originally thought of . ..".
Since the book is supposed to be based on the Escort build I'm disapointed it can't give me the exact length I need to cut it to.
Has anyone else (who is building for the 750MC formula) had to cut the shaft? If so, how much shorter does it need to be and is it easy?
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Dunc
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| posted on 29/4/02 at 02:31 PM |
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The book doesn't really give a position for the engine and gearbox. You really need to fit these first, make the brackets etc then measure the
propshaft that you will need. Sorry can't be much mroe help than this.
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JohnFol
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| posted on 29/4/02 at 02:35 PM |
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So I could almost use the original length as the basis of where the engine / axle get mounted. .. .
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James
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| posted on 29/4/02 at 02:46 PM |
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quote:
So I could almost use the original length as the basis of where the engine / axle get mounted. .. .
In theory I can't see why not but you may end up with the engine further forward than you'd otherwise want/could have it. I've gathered that most
people try and sit the engine as far back as possible to help handling etc.
Those further down the build may of course be able to blow this theory completely out of the water!
James
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Dunc
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| posted on 29/4/02 at 02:49 PM |
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You possibly could but the engine might end up too far forward and or you might need to extend the gearlever backwards so you can reach it comfortably
while driving. The other way is to move the rear axle further back but you'd probably need chassis mods if you moved it more than a couple of inches.
Just something you should be aware of.
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Bob da builder
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 posted on 29/4/02 at 03:25 PM |
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I have had a new prop made up, it cost £140 for new circlip knuckle joints (so that i can service it in the future), tubing and balance. the supplier
wanted the measurement from the oil seal on the box to the flange on the axle, provide the top and bottom distances as mine had about 1/2 inch
differance!!! the supplier can then work out the safe length. Personally i wouldin get into welding it my self cos i think that it will never run
true. it sounds as if a 'cut and shunt' is what you nee due to having the single section (Mine was the twin) i can provide you with my suppliers No.
its in cheshire.
i think that the other advice about engine position is good and that you want the engine back as far as possable to aid weight distrubution (dont want
the back end too light!) and also the issue of reaching the gear stick with a harness on!
i fitted a x-flow with standard box, i can just reach the gear stick after crancking it over, i also fitted a quick shift to reduce the movement so
that i dont have to over reach for 1st & 3rd.
Just a thourght but if the engine is too far forward the steering column may hit the oil filter!!
hope that this is of use??!
Rob
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Dunc
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| posted on 29/4/02 at 03:53 PM |
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I'm doing a sierra build but it doesn't really matter, personally I've found that the gearstick it most comfortable for me approximately 100mm back
from member B but I'm mounting the engine block about 50mm from the firewall with the bellhousing within the transmission tunnel. From the book,
which has the bellhousing in front of the firewall, the gearstick seems to be about 50mm in front of member B.
Can anyone confirm what they've found most comfortable, without stretching to get 1st, or if they've had to modify the gearstick in anyway to get it
within reach.
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jmbillings
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| posted on 30/4/02 at 02:48 PM |
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we modded the gear linkage to make it about 25 cm further back- used an Audi 80 stick from a scrappy and used a rod between the two. Might be able to
find a pic if it doesnt make sense. It was too far forward to reach otherwise, especially with harnesses as you cant even reach forwards for it
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UncleFista
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| posted on 30/4/02 at 04:17 PM |
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No help at all, but I bought a prop from E-bay, £30. It's reconditioned and has new UJ's, the bloke said he bought it from a kit car show, it
"should" fit, but if not I've still got the splines and UJ's 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 30/4/02 at 10:24 PM |
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quote:
No help at all, but I bought a prop from E-bay, £30. It's reconditioned and has new UJ's, the bloke said he bought it from a kit car show, it
"should" fit, but if not I've still got the splines and UJ's
Ahh so it was you that went for it!
At least the guy sold it to a good home.
Until the ice weasels come.....!
I saw a mini proportioning valve on there a while back which i think a locoster grabbed. I friggin paid 35 quid for mine.
Discovered ebay a month ago. Its really neat. I have a white faced with black print car clock / gauge on ther eif anyones interested - I ran out of
space and symmetry on my dash and couldnt find it a home.
atb
steve
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