mk85
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 08:23 AM |
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plumbing my whole brake system
Am looking to start my brake system on my mk indy. Are there any good guides on plumbing tips dos and donts ect.
Thanks
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maccmike
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 08:37 AM |
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Buy a decent flaring kit.
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robinj66
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 08:46 AM |
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Wot he said ^^^^^
A decent flaring tool makes it a much less frustrating task.
Also make sure you put the connectors on the pipe before you make the flare - this is usually done ust after you've perfected the perfect
flare
It's helpful to map out the route of your pipes with stiff wire.
Make any bends gradually and avoid sharp bends as this can kink the inside of the pipe. I used a small hand pipe-bender for a neater finish but you
can manage with with thumbs - it just takes practice.
Good luck
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 09:26 AM |
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If your using a pressure switch for the brake lights then mount it so that the pressure sensor is horizontal rather than vertical as its harder to
bleed the system if its vertical because it can trap air bubbles.
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designer
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 10:30 AM |
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Use Kunifer, nothing else.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 10:56 AM |
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Do an eBay search for Powerhand brake flairing tool.
Use oem style push-in clips rather than p-clips.
On longer pipe runs it is often an idea to use male to male pipe joiners as this can make fitting the pipes a lot easier.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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mk85
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 11:35 AM |
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I have these brembo master cylinders and they have 3 holes in I know the top one is for my resivour but why two more outlets?
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mk85
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 11:41 AM |
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CosKev3
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 03:23 PM |
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If they are both for your brakes, presume they are designed to run seperate pipes to each caliper?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 03:47 PM |
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An easy way to work out the length of pipe runs is to use a long Bowden outer cable , it's flexible so can be clipped into place just use a
piece of insulating tape wrapped around it to. make the length needed
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pewe
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| posted on 6/9/14 at 05:43 PM |
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As above ^^ use stiff wire - actually wire coat-hangers unbent did the job for me.
Also second the idea of joining short runs not only as they are easier to bend but easier to replace if anything goes wrong in the future.
Practise male and female flares before attempting any runs - saves on pipe in the long run.
Finally ensure you have enough clearance in the transmission tunnel if you are using a live axle - you'd be surprised how much up and down
movement there is.
Having said that the brake system was probably one of the most satisfying things I did on the build....
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10m 
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02GF74
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| posted on 7/9/14 at 02:19 PM |
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Practise doing single and double flared ends.
When making the lines allow about 5 cm extra in case you f%%% up an end and need to redo. Will be easier to cut it off and start again than join pipe
if too short - not rcommended - else redo the whole length ... so do the longest runs first so they can be reused for the shorter ones if need be and
not needing too much unbending.
Used round item e.g. bottles, cans jars as formers for a neat finish.
Finally make sure the hollow bolt is fitted before you make the flare.
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