Murdoc
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 05:00 PM |
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Diff/Prop Hitting Chassis - Panhard Rod Required
Just bought a locost from someone on here and when cornering hard(ish) there is an awful scraping/grinding/knocking noise, my two guesses were
something on the bottom scraping or the diff/prop hitting the chassis. I remade an exhaust bracket that was too low and trimmed some excessively long
machine screws sticking out as they were clearly scraping (bent over). I'm left with the diff and prop hitting the chassis and side panels in
the tunnel. I'm going to put a Panhard rod in as there is excessive lateral movement. I have had a look at the book and there is a Panhard rod
in there, do people see them as an optional part?
I'm looking for pictures of how they are attached to the axles, has anyone got some to share? The pictures in the book don't include the
handbrake and hydraulic lines and it's quite tight. Is there enough room to weld the receiving bracket between the cable and lines? I need to
re-make the handbrake cable bracket anyway as it is too near the chassis.
I have some 19mm 1.6mm mild tube, I was planning to use rose joints so I can adjust the length. Is the 19mmx1.6mm up to the job? I'm trying to
avoid going excessive on the materials and adding too much weight, I can't imagine the loads are that high.
Thanks!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 05:07 PM |
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As it is you have just 4 parrallel links ? with no lateral location ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 05:09 PM |
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Judging by the picture you have 4 out of a 5 link suspension setup. The panhard rod is the fifth link, it's not something I would consider
optional.
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Murdoc
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 05:10 PM |
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Yes, I was a little surprised when I first had a look. That's why I asked if they are considered optional.
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chris_smith
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 05:10 PM |
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these are the only pics i could find from my previous build -
.jpg) .jpg)
drum painted
 
Description
The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows."
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Murdoc
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 07:24 PM |
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Thanks.
I have just ordered a pair of M12 rose joints and matching threaded inserts from McGill motorsports, they fit 25mm tube so that answers my earlier
question. about 19mm tube.
Is it possible the original builder omitted the Panhard rod in an ill advised attempt to save weight?
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Nickp
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 08:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Murdoc
Is it possible the original builder omitted the Panhard rod in an ill advised attempt to save weight?
Or an attempt to make a comedy handling clown car? 
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mcerd1
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 09:56 PM |
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A watts linkage could be an alternative to the panhard rod if you think that would fit any better / more easily
[Edited on 24/8/2016 by mcerd1]
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Sam_68
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 08:03 AM |
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Are we to understand that this thing managed to get through IVA withoout any form of lateral location of the axle? 
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Murdoc
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 08:19 AM |
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Looks like it, it's a bit strange as the rest of the chassis is really well built. All the welding is top notch and the finish is great.
I'm thinking it was either part built and sold or intentional for some reason and plans changed. Since 2009 no one else has noticed this or
decided to investigate the bad noise.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 08:27 AM |
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I assume that this is the car ?
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=203956
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Murdoc
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 08:35 AM |
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That's it. Plenty work still to be done on it, but I wanted a project.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 09:55 AM |
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looks like the previous owner did a bit of work too...
http://s131.photobucket.com/user/boylers11/library/locoblade?sort=3&page=1
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Jeano
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 12:29 PM |
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I can help a bit more on this
assuming this is your car
Then this is the refurb the previous owner did 2013 to 2016
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=661311&page=1
Location: Essex
Drives: MK Indy F20c with hairdryer
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Andy D
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 12:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
looks like the previous owner did a bit of work too...
http://s131.photobucket.com/user/boylers11/library/locoblade?sort=3&page=1
In that pic is there a nut on the end of the axle panhard rod mounting? Has it been removed for painting, and someone forgot to put it back? .. I
can't imagine how bad it must handle without it fitted.
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Murdoc
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 01:23 PM |
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That looks like it was for an older set of longer shocks, the same mounting point is at the other end of the axle too. Also, there is no mounting
point on the chassis for the panhard rod. I may be able to use the old shock mounting point. I had a good look but I'm pretty sure one has never
been fitted.
The handling, surprising, isn't that bad but I haven't push it at all due to the noise!
[Edited on 25/8/16 by Murdoc]
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prawnabie
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 01:51 PM |
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Id be taking the paint off the trailing arms + chassis/axle brackets and checking for signs of fatigue, I would say that IF the axle has been moving
side to side, it may well have been flexing the brackets/chassis in that area.
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Andy D
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 01:51 PM |
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That mounting point is suspiciously in the exact same position as my Westy live axle. Very odd..
Top pic on this page:
http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/104326-identifying-different-types-of-rear-suspension-and-diffs/
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Sam_68
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 03:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Andy D... I can't imagine how bad it must handle without it fitted.
I have driven a Sylva Striker where the Panhard rod had failed, and whilst easily noticeable and a bit 'loose' at the rear end, it
wasn't as bad as you might imagine, at road speeds. Though the geometry of the Sylva's longitudinal Watts links means that they
don't like moving far, side to side, even without the Panhard rod.
I'm absolutely stunned that this car appears to have gone through IVA and (presumably) MOT without this being picked up, though.
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Andy D
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 04:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
quote:
Originally posted by Andy D... I can't imagine how bad it must handle without it fitted.
I have driven a Sylva Striker where the Panhard rod had failed, and whilst easily noticeable and a bit 'loose' at the rear end, it
wasn't as bad as you might imagine, at road speeds. Though the geometry of the Sylva's longitudinal Watts links means that they
don't like moving far, side to side, even without the Panhard rod.
I'm absolutely stunned that this car appears to have gone through IVA and (presumably) MOT without this being picked up, though.
I was imagining something that feels a bit like a drift car.. but doesn't actually break traction at the rear!
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Sam_68
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 04:21 PM |
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From memory (it was a long time ago), it felt pretty much as you would expect it to: with even a slight change in direction there was an
initial 'flop' and a knock as the chassis moved across to take up the slack against the trailing arms, but then (and as the cornering
loads built up) it felt pretty consistent and not all that unusual.
I only drove it a few miles to limp it home, and not an experience I'd voluntarily repeat, mind you!
I once had a rear suspension bolt shear after becoming airborne at a 3-figure speed in a mid-engined, double-wishbone car, too, and whilst it was a
definite brown-trouser moment when it landed, I managed to drive that about 40 miles home without much trauma, too.
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Murdoc
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| posted on 25/8/16 at 05:06 PM |
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I emptied my pockets at the steel merchants got home and I have taken the back off to find a number of horrors. Looks like it's going to be a
while before I drive it again.
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Murdoc
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| posted on 28/8/16 at 06:53 AM |
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I have fitted a Panhard bar. It seems the mounting pointed out earlier by Andy was indeed for the Panhard (although nothing on the chassis side), not
sure why I thought there was one the other side of the axle too. I cut that mount off, welded up the remnants and built new brackets as I wanted a
double shear design. I corrected the handbrake brackets and it all fits nicely. Both rear brake wheel cylinders are leaking so waiting to get them
from ECP and I need to actually attach the roll cage stays to something (air doesn't work well in compression).
Thanks for the help.
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adithorp
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| posted on 28/8/16 at 07:54 AM |
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Nice bit of work there.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Murdoc
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| posted on 3/9/16 at 05:32 AM |
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Thanks, I have done a few other jobs before putting it back together, I was thinking of documenting the improvements in a thread would the project
diaries forum be appropriate for a rebuild thread? Still got plenty to re-do.
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