Got my plates today and managed to get a run when it had stopped raining.

Right im having problems with the brakes - firstly i had the brake lights sticking on which seem to fix itself when i pushed the brake pedal a few times however went for a run for a few miles but they stayed on all the time. Started to drive home to have a look when stopped to open my gate and the back brakes locked on - had to drag the car into the garage with the rear brakes sticking!! Luckily i was not on the main road!

Anybody have any ideas - they are discs all round and believe the brake lights are stayin on as the switch is based on pressure on the brake line i think. Could it be bedding in issues or something? i cant move the car in the garage at the mo so need help!!

Brake master cylinder pushrod(s) are not allowing the piston in the master cylinder(s) to come fully back, result fluid can't vent back to resevoir to allow for fluid expansion and as the brakes warm you get hydraulic lock.

[Edited on 29/7/09 by britishtrident]

Slacken the hand brake cable off and see if they are still locked that way you've eliminated the handbrake as being the problem,

tony

Does brake pedal return fully as had this happen on my fury . I had to put a spring on the pedal to bring it right back to the stop. Alternatively the pushrod between the master cyl and brake pedal could be too long or need adjusting.

Next time it happens, try hooking your toe under the brake pedal and pull it back. In a safe situation, of course!

You may find that the brakes will release - in which case BT's suggestion is the most likely cause.

Make sure that you've got a bit of free play in your pedal, and have a return spring to help the pedal go to the off position - this should be quite strong, as your leg muscles are stronger!

The one thing it isn't is the handbrake --- the wheels will instantly free up if you crack open a bleed nipple on the affected htydraulic circuit(s)

This is a very common problem with home built cars, the piston tin the master cylinder must come back completely --- even 1mm is enough to cause this problem.

Possible causes are as already mention something as simple as the pedal sticking and needing a spring but if you have everything locked solid then it could be the push rod(s) need shorttened or the large washer which is held by a circlip at the end of the mastercylinder is fouling the push rod (this is very common).

[Edited on 29/7/09 by britishtrident]

Cheers - i will take a look at both the bleed nipple (gotta find it!) and the washer and see what i can do!

If i get stuck i will be back as i dont know much about brakes!

I would go with the rod being too long, when the fluid get hot it expands so there must be free play on the pedal to allow for this

i bet that what it is as just checked and its freed itself now.

now how do i go about altering this? i assume u mean the push rods that go from the back of the pedal into the cylinder? is this gonna be a pain as i dont know much about brakes and dont wanna screw em up!

just found this

Easy to check if the master cylinder rod is overadjusted, just crack off one of the bleed nipples with the car jacked up and brakes binding . If the brake frees off after cracking nipple then the master cylinder is holding pressure so rod to rear cylinder may be too long. If brakes don't free off then let off handbrake adjustment and recheck. If brakes are still binding then the pads may be sticking in the caliper, might be worth taking them out and cleaning , refit with a bit of copper slip . HTH . Me

- where are these bleed nipples? and where do u adjust the rod? near the two reservours?? or behind the pedals?

[Edited on 29/7/09 by joemotion]

[Edited on 29/7/09 by joemotion]

hopefully im answering my own questions!! bleed nipples on each caliper?? and rod behind pedal going into cylinder? is there any adjustment on this rod? can the bias bar and everything be left in?

Yep, bleed nipples on each caliper (may be more than one bleed nipple per caliper if you have 4 pots). The rod is from the clevis on the pedal to the m/c. The rods on mine were too long to allow satisfactory adjustment and had to be cut down a little but this was before everything was fully assembled. If this is the case for you now then it may require removing the offending m/c to do this. You should be able to remove the pin in the clevis and turn it to adjust it without removing the balance bar etc as long as the rod is short enough to allow the adjustment you need.

Do you have a spring to help the pedal return to the off position?

not sure about spring however it always seems to come all the way back

i will have a look later and see whats down there - gonna have to take the seat out to get in as well i reckon

Amazingly - I got my plates yesterday and after taking it out, had identical brake problems. What are the chances!

back wheels locking up and brake lights stayin on?

Well in my case it was the fronts locking up and the lights staying on - so almost identical

well if you manage to resolve let me know so i can get her back on the road quickly!!

Right i have taken the panel off to get to the back of the pedal - what do i need to alter to stop the brakes from stayin on when hot? do i wind the nuts clockwise to move the bar into the cylinder? or is it the other way round??





[Edited on 30/7/09 by joemotion]

right sorted it - turned it clockwise a few turns each rod - worked a treat

did about 6-7 miles and brake lights and brakes worked fine! infact the whole car did apart from the sweaky rear end!!

first proper run! even took the mrs out in it however she moaned it was too cold!

Glad to here all is well mate,have give her some welly from me.

[Edited on 8/8/09 by soggy 3]

Glad to hear you got it sorted, it seemed like a quick and easy fix. Enjoy the rest of the summer

P.S. They always say it's cold