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First start with turbo and manifold on VIDEO
tompat3463 - 13/12/12 at 07:12 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_fOlNy9b7A&sns=em

First start of my cbr900 with turbo on

Spools up straight away and seem to produce lots of boost which is nice


While we're on. Which way does the water flow thru oil filter on this engine ?!?!

welderman - 13/12/12 at 07:51 PM

Excellent work

tompat3463 - 13/12/12 at 07:55 PM

Thanks mate. Really put my head into the manifold and I don't think it's turned out bad.

Its a very tight manifold to make with the bore spacing

Next on the agenda is the plenum

wylliezx9r - 13/12/12 at 08:22 PM

Looks good, will the turbo fit behind the side panel ? Or are you going to make a hole in it ?.

[Edited on 13/12/12 by wylliezx9r]

imp paul - 13/12/12 at 08:29 PM

it looks nice pal well done looks nice welding

tompat3463 - 13/12/12 at 08:45 PM

I've kept the turbo as tight in as I can. What will be will be. If things need to be butchered for it to fit then so be it. I haven't decided what it's going in yet !!

Welderman. What thickness Ali did u fab ur plenum from ??

Thanks for the comments guys

maccmike - 13/12/12 at 08:50 PM

That is a fine ass bitch

Proby - 13/12/12 at 08:53 PM

Excellent work! Manifold looks top notch! I've just got hold of my 954 throttle bodies (from the states as were cheaper believe it or not) megasquirt is on order, I'm now making up an inlet manifold. I'm just trying to source someone local to make me a plenum and exhaust manifold!

PS What turbo you using??

welderman - 13/12/12 at 08:58 PM

quote:
Originally posted by tompat3463
I've kept the turbo as tight in as I can. What will be will be. If things need to be butchered for it to fit then so be it. I haven't decided what it's going in yet !!

Welderman. What thickness Ali did u fab ur plenum from ??

Thanks for the comments guys


ally plenum is made up from 2mm thick.

ask away if i can answer owt i will


is the turbo oil fed, it looks a little low from the video for the oil to run back into the sump

[Edited on 13/12/12 by welderman]

tompat3463 - 13/12/12 at 09:20 PM

Thanks guys. Thanks Welderman

Turbo is from a fiat coupe turbo. Produces 220bhp on the fiat so I'm thinking if I reduce boost a wee bit it should take my engine to 180-190bhp

The turbo is oil fed but it terminates out of the turbo about the top of the sump so I should be fine

I do have one question

There is a barbed brass fitting near the exit of the compressor on the turbo

I'm wondering where this attaches too ??

Welderman. There is also one on yours if u look thru ur photo archive

welderman - 13/12/12 at 09:29 PM

Think the one your on about is a feed back to the actuator

matt_gsxr - 13/12/12 at 09:37 PM

Great work, lovely manifold. Turbo BEC is the embodiment of mental.

Just a quick question. How does your exhaust work, does it go around the front of the engine somehow? or is this not for a RWD car.

If turbo turns out to be too low and burns oil, then you can always fit a scavenger pump.

tompat3463 - 13/12/12 at 09:44 PM

So that's what controls the actuator ??

I can turn the turbo around when I decide what it's going in. Just assembled it quickly so I could test the spool up

ReMan - 13/12/12 at 10:49 PM

Brill.
Just been to busy to get to do my own, sp watching Weldermans and yours with intent

mark chandler - 13/12/12 at 11:24 PM

My plenum split after a couple of track days, it's quite large and flat so I welded some pins to stop it from flexing causing the failure.

MakeEverything - 14/12/12 at 09:23 AM

quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
My plenum split after a couple of track days, it's quite large and flat so I welded some pins to stop it from flexing causing the failure.


Same happens on the renault 21 exhaust manifold (although its cast). Have a look at putting in a support bracket if you can.

[Edited on 14-12-12, by MakeEverything]

Tatey - 14/12/12 at 11:37 AM

Are you doing anything to prevent pre-det (engine knocking)? Like dropping the compression ratio etc?

tompat3463 - 14/12/12 at 12:56 PM

Going to retard the timing slightly. Not sure how much yet. That will be another question I post. Unless some clever clogs answers it on this one

Tatey - 14/12/12 at 01:24 PM

The only ways really to do it are:

Drop the compression ratio - Can be done by using low compression pistons to drop the compression ratio (expensive) or use a spacer between the head and block (cheap way),

Retard ignition as you know

You can run slightly richer as the extra fuel will help draw out the increased heat of the air charge which should reduce the knock slightly

Use an intercooler to decrease the air charge temp.

Reverse the cooling system so that the liners are cooled first before the block (may cause other issues depending on engine design) as this will again help to cool down the charge.

You will most likely need to implement several of these methods to remove the knock, although it really depends on how much boost you are intending to run and the current compression ratio of the engine, you will need to drop the compression down by around 3 to 4 from what it was, say if it was 12:1 then drop it to 9 or 8:1.

If the above doesnt work then you can drop the boost by wastegating (slowing down the turbo) or if all else fails, limit the RPM of the engine, which should allow you to increase the boost a bit more and run a slightly higher compression ratio, however you would really want to change the gearing for this.

[Edited on 14/12/12 by Tatey]

mark chandler - 14/12/12 at 04:01 PM

My engine is 'as out the bike' standard compression, cam timing and sparks.

Fitted with TB,s + megasquirt v1 extra and a decent intercooler, 201 BHP with 7psi measured on the MAP sensor.

Just run optimax, the engines are designed to run on 91ron fuel so plenty of scope.

You will need a lockup clutch above 175bhp.

Regards Mark

[Edited on 14/12/12 by mark chandler]