bi22le
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 11:56 AM |
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Spinning stud and nut removal - solved!
Hi all,
Following on from one of my wheel studs eating the splines of the ali hub as per this original post:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/4/viewthread.php?tid=163805&page=3
Me and my heavy handed mate attacked it at the weekend.
We got it off in the end!
So after trying to use a flat blade to stop the back of the stud spinning and deciding that chemical metal would probably ruin my hub and not have
enough strength to hold the stud still I opted for the cutting and splitting of the nut. I did not try the socket and drilling method as I felt it
would not overly solve the issue. I could not get the wheel and hub off becasue I could not get the calliper off from inside the wheel and brake disc
area. I Could not be bothered to drain the fluid, I have never done that before.
After a hack saw, dremel, snapping 2 flat bladded screw drivers and my dumb mate smacking the back of his hand with the hammer it came off!! Then a
hacksaw to cut the stub off.
Just want to say thanks to everybodies input, and the generous offers to come and help, with this. I can now wrap the baby up for winter.
So next action will be; how to repair the splines in the hub? Peening and new stud, spot of weld on the back, or other?
Ill add a link to my original to ths one for search reference reasons. I like to wrap up my forum questions. You never know who will have the same
problem in the future!
Happy winter modding!!
Wayne
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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mookaloid
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 12:23 PM |
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I think an Alloy hub will be tricky to repair. If the repair isn't good you risk the same thing happening again or worse it could fail
altogether..
If it was mine I'd get a new one.
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 12:39 PM |
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Use Loctite 271 "Stud 'n' Bearing Fit" also check the nuts are not becoming coil bound.
Peining with a hammer will tend to enlarge the hole to tighten the hole size first use a centre punch round the hole then use a small ball pein
hammer.
To remove a brake calliper you don't need to drain the brake hydraulics just top the reservoir up to the very brim cover with cling film to
exclude all air and seal with an elastic band. If the pipe seal is going to be broken for more than a few hours after removing the calliper just
blank the pipe end off with a short brake pipe with a bleed nipple at the end.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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owelly
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 01:43 PM |
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Weld a ring around all four studs to stop them from spinning and assemble with Loctite.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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Theshed
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 02:27 PM |
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Make up an oversized stud - i.e. only the splined bit larger. Simple turning job (if you have a Knurling tool - sorry I don't) - decent grade
steel necessary
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 04:30 PM |
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Don't weld them in. I once collected a customers Land Rover that had had one stud break after he'd done that. After about a mile I heard a
ping, then three more followedby a bump and loss of drive... then the rear wheel overtook me. It went accross the road and through a garden fence...
then 3 more fences!
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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bi22le
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 05:05 PM |
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Hmmm.
Maybe welding is out of the question. I am goin to give Hispec a call over the winter to see what they say.
Its £80 for a new one including all bearings. . . . .
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 05:23 PM |
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Its got to be an oversized stud, if you are not precious on having the same wheel nuts all around have a look at something like a landrover/rangerover
one like this
You could probally tap down to the ford size on the threads anyway 
As the extra weight is close to the centre balance will not be affected
Regards Mark
[Edited on 12/12/11 by mark chandler]
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daviep
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| posted on 12/12/11 at 06:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Don't weld them in. I once collected a customers Land Rover that had had one stud break after he'd done that. After about a mile I heard a
ping, then three more followedby a bump and loss of drive... then the rear wheel overtook me. It went accross the road and through a garden fence...
then 3 more fences!
With regard to owelly suggestion of welding I don't think he was suggesting to weld the studs to the hub which wouldn't work due to the
hub being alloy.
I think owelly was suggesting to make up a steel ring which would lie on top of the stud heads and be welded to the backs of the studs only so that
they couldn't turn. I like this idea.
I also like BT's suggestion of loctite "bearing fit" which if the stud isn't too slack will work well and is the simplest
solution, from your description it sounds as though the stud is probably too slack.
Mark Chandlers's suggestion which in my opinion is the properly engineered solution will take you back to a situation where the hub is back to
original spec.
Just my opinion
Davie
[Edited on 12/12/11 by daviep]
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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nz_climber
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| posted on 13/12/11 at 05:37 AM |
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what about drilling new holes for all the studs 45 degrees off from the original holes?
http://aarons7.wordpress.com
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pewe
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| posted on 13/12/11 at 10:19 AM |
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Good result especially as those sleeve nuts have about three times the thread length of a normal nut.
I think NZ ^ has the answer i.e. drill out new (undersize to ensure a good, tight fit) holes at 45dgrees to the originals. Also suggest using new
studs just in case the old ones have smoothed off (unlikely but do you feel lucky?).
Also stud and bearing fit as BT ^ suggests.
Cheeers, Pewe10 
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