RoadsterDave62
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 07:40 AM |
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Bracketing for a Polo Rad
Hi Guys
Second question of the day.
Im waiting for my Haynes Roadster body to be delivered, I want to mount my Polo Rad but am worried it my be in the way of the nose cone. Does anybody
have the mounting location, ie. does the bottom of the rad sit level with the bottom chassis rail, how far away from the front of the chassis should I
mount it and should it be vertical or on the same plan as the front of the chassis.
Again, thanks in advance.
Dave
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metel matt
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 07:58 AM |
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Hi Dave have a look through my pics of my roadster. I mounted my rad just about high enough to get the top hose over the chassis rail and it could be
clipped down.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/50/viewthread.php?tid=202165
https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/
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johnemms
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 09:48 AM |
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Locost Polo Rad - not sure if any help -
 
Front Bay Side
 
Description
 
Radiator pipes and fan fitted
 
Description
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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pewe
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 12:28 PM |
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If it helps rads are more efficient if canted slightly back - also means they sit lower.
I used some heavy duty brick straps for top and bottom brackets - pre drilled and galvanised - seemed to make sense....
HTH.
Cheeers, Pewe10 
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johnemms
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 12:58 PM |
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Love this stuff.. also if you sell the car they say take it out and use it in the next one 
Evans waterless cooling
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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02GF74
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 06:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pewe
If it helps rads are more efficient if canted slightly back -l:
I dont think that is true. Most efficient is when air is perpendicular.... hence why its vertical in mass produced cars.
See third post down is what i think is a good explanation.
http://forums.autosport.com/topic/110589-radiator-inclination/
Re original question, find another job and wait until nose cone arrives, why risk getting it wrong?
[Edited on 24/3/16 by 02GF74]
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 24/3/16 at 10:44 PM |
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Wait for thenosecone.. The fit will be similar to my mk Indy polo setup there is little space to play with...
Dan
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james h
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| posted on 25/3/16 at 01:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Wait for thenosecone.. The fit will be similar to my mk Indy polo setup there is little space to play with...
Dan
I had to tilt mine backward quite a bit. The bleed was on the top right corner (as you look from the front of the car) and is quite close to the side
of the nosecone.
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 25/3/16 at 01:07 PM |
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This is how I mounted mine on my MK Indy
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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Adamirish
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| posted on 25/3/16 at 10:34 PM |
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As said above. Wait for the nose cone. There is VERY little room to play with. I made up all the brackets and it was about 5mm out and rubbed on the
nose cone. Had to do some more bending to fit. I also used 2 6mm thread, rubber bobbins on the top mount with brackets going underneath the rad using
the pegs on the bottom. I mounted these into grommets. Probably a bit overkill really but vibration will ruin plastic!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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