daveb666
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 04:51 PM |
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Pedal Box - Brake Bias Bar IVA Lock
Failed my IVA today because the tester wasn't happy with the nylocks on my bias bar. He suggested fitting split pins.
To confirm if I fit split pins where the red dots are
 
Description
..should that be OK?
What else have other people done?
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40inches
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 05:08 PM |
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Wire locking is easiest, and mentioned in manual as acceptable.
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deeceee09
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 05:10 PM |
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I used roll pins and that was OK.
Treachery and old age will always triumph over youthful enthusiasm.
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daveb666
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 05:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Wire locking is easiest, and mentioned in manual as acceptable.
Sorry, not sure what wire locking is?
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 05:17 PM |
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Drill a hole and put a piece of wire through essentially! Same as a split pin etc
[Edited on 4/7/13 by Ben_Copeland]
Ben
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40inches
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 05:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Wire locking is easiest, and mentioned in manual as acceptable.
Sorry, not sure what wire locking is?
You drill a small hole through the corner of a nut head, pass wire through it, twist it and lock it to a suitable point, in your case wire together a
nut either side of the clevis. It means you don't have to drill through the threaded bar
I have wire locked my sump plug
 
Collector
[Edited on 4-7-13 by 40inches]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 06:04 PM |
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Out of interest did he tell you what the bias front to rear was ? as its passed on that be carful not to adjust it 
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iank
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 08:40 PM |
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Some examples of lock wiring bias bars here
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172146
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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iank
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| posted on 4/7/13 at 09:13 PM |
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A link to this guide was posted a while back which is pretty useful.
http://www.byrongliding.com/technical/lockwiring/
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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daveb666
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| posted on 5/7/13 at 11:36 AM |
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Thanks lads, lockwire ordered today.
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40inches
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| posted on 5/7/13 at 12:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
Thanks lads, lockwire ordered today.
I have a spool of stainless lock wire, how much do you want?
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daveb666
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| posted on 5/7/13 at 02:18 PM |
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I only needed enough to do that tbh mate, but I've already ordered it now. £9 for 30m on Ebay, so that should last my lifetime I think! haha
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40inches
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| posted on 5/7/13 at 02:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
I only needed enough to do that tbh mate, but I've already ordered it now. £9 for 30m on Ebay, so that should last my lifetime I think! haha
I did the same thing, I think I have 29.5 metres left 
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PeteS2k
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| posted on 6/7/13 at 07:39 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
Failed my IVA today because the tester wasn't happy with the nylocks on my bias bar. He suggested fitting split pins.
To confirm if I fit split pins where the red dots are
Description
..should that be OK?
What else have other people done?
Don't those nuts you're using as spacers stop the bias bar from pivoting? I thought you'd need a thin 'tube' spacer to
screw the lock-nut against. If it can't pivot freely, you've got no bias setting - it's just acting straight on the master cylinder
by binding on the side of the clevis.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 6/7/13 at 08:43 AM |
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In an ideal world I would say yes but the bias bar is 7/16 and the clevis isn't much more so there is no room to put any sleeve in. Any sleeve
would sit against the clevis shoulders much like the nuts. There is some slack in the nuts and the bearing is not fixed in the pedal so there is some
side to side movement. As long as you keep it greased it should move fine.
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