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Author: Subject: Gear Linkage improvements
charlierevell

posted on 11/8/08 at 02:09 PM Reply With Quote
Gear Linkage improvements

Does anyone have some photos or tips on how to make this better?
Im running it until i can sort paddles out.
I believe its the standard MK on.

Gear linkage1
Forum Code: Gear linkage1
Gear linkage1


Gear Linkage2
Forum Code: Gear Linkage2
Gear Linkage2


Gear Linkage3
Forum Code: Gear Linkage3
Gear Linkage3






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sucksqueezebangblow

posted on 11/8/08 at 02:18 PM Reply With Quote
Ouch, no wonder you need so much pull to make a change! Principles of moments, you're pulling on a short lever to operate the long lever which actuates the gear change linkage. Ideally you should be using levers of about the same length as each other, that way you'll need less pull.

Why not use a longer cable, take it close to the gear change shaft and fix it to a bracket that will give you a straight pull to the gear change linkage on the gear change shaft?

[Edited on 11/8/08 by sucksqueezebangblow]

I also noticed that there appear to be two holes in the upper lever and the inner hole is currently in use. Moving the bolt and linkage to the outer hole should help a little by giving a little more leverage.

[Edited on 11/8/08 by sucksqueezebangblow]





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Jason Fletcher

posted on 11/8/08 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
Ive got a cable from Andy at AB on his advice. I have to say it really is better than I thought it would be. Infact it's the dogs nuts!

Jason

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charlierevell

posted on 11/8/08 at 08:12 PM Reply With Quote
Id try that... but then i cant use my flat shifter!





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charlierevell

posted on 11/8/08 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
Ok... so iv cut the gear lever down on the rose joint end and moved it up about 2 inches (cant go lower unless its at the bottom cos it hits the prop)

Also moved it to the outer one on the pivot, but this now makes it like jelly.....

the pivot either twists at the welds OR the tube is twisting. So ive moved it back in one, this is better but still twists, and then rod seems to bend (Even tho it is flatter/straighter than before!)

It is however, much easier to change gear, so need to test it out moving along with the flat shift.

I think its just going to feel like its really flexi tho...

Think its going to take a lot more work, would a double triangle plate mounted on rose joints work with a spacer above and below to straighten out both rods?





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sucksqueezebangblow

posted on 12/8/08 at 09:05 AM Reply With Quote
How about something like this. The only drawback is it will reverse your gear change lever direction.

[img][/img]





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charlierevell

posted on 12/8/08 at 10:22 AM Reply With Quote
At the moment it seems to work ok, but just flexes. Would a thicker rod stop this?

Having said that i think the pivot tube is twisting now if you keep pressure on the lever.... Hmmm Think it needs a serious re think, maybe i'll just order the Dax paddles!





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asl

posted on 13/8/08 at 11:42 AM Reply With Quote
Can anyone other some advice on this abortion? It's goy so much play it is like stirring custard!! The gear shift is in the wrong sense (Back 1 and then forward 6) but i would like to keep it that way as I have a german coupe with a sequencial box for commuting (Smart 4 2!!!) Thanks Rescued attachment IMG_0714.JPG
Rescued attachment IMG_0714.JPG

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asl

posted on 13/8/08 at 11:43 AM Reply With Quote
How do you put more than 1 picture on a reply? Rescued attachment IMG_0733.JPG
Rescued attachment IMG_0733.JPG

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asl

posted on 13/8/08 at 11:43 AM Reply With Quote
more.... Rescued attachment IMG_0716.JPG
Rescued attachment IMG_0716.JPG

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asl

posted on 13/8/08 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
Last one. Rescued attachment IMG_0718.JPG
Rescued attachment IMG_0718.JPG

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sucksqueezebangblow

posted on 13/8/08 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
Wow, that is nasty! But it's not as bad as charlierevells! At least the levers are roughly equal length. The lever below the floorpan level looks like an accident waiting to happen.

I'd say go for cable actuation.





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charlierevell

posted on 13/8/08 at 05:46 PM Reply With Quote
I've got mine better... if i changed it to the further pivot and then make it nearer on the bottom it would change gear on its own and require noooo effort at all!





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INDY BIRD

posted on 13/8/08 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
Couldnt agree more with the above,

Get rid of it all and start again,

keep it simple and as short as possible, big lengths of rod like that make the opperation very sloopy and difficult to change gear let alone hitting something on the road with it that low,

Ask mk to make you a new pivot shouldnt cost much,

Godd luck with what ever you do,

go paddle shift i would say but thats only my opinion,

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charlierevell

posted on 14/8/08 at 09:39 AM Reply With Quote
Well.... my rod ends arrived today, 6mm and 3mm ali plate is in the post as is 2.5m of rod to link it all together.
Already got the flatshifter, so paddle shift here i come!





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asl

posted on 14/8/08 at 06:29 PM Reply With Quote
Ok, dumbass question number 1. What is a flat shifter? As I have to start again I would really like to go paddleshift. Where do I start?
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charlierevell

posted on 15/8/08 at 05:00 PM Reply With Quote
Im building my paddles to fit under and in front of my sierra stuff...
Ill take photos as i go and post them up!

Flatshifter kills the spark on the upchange and the nice one blips on the way back down too!





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JUD

posted on 20/8/08 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by asl
Ok, dumbass question number 1. What is a flat shifter? As I have to start again I would really like to go paddleshift. Where do I start?


www.flatshifter.com

I am considering paddles and a flatshifter as a winter upgrade. If you look on here there has been some threads on flatshifters recently if you have a search. Like this one

Martin





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Toady1

posted on 30/9/08 at 10:31 AM Reply With Quote
yeah I do aggree the shifting set up was horrendous! but then it was a makeshift of what I had and what mk did to get it working. I was going to get a cable conversion from AB, but never got around to it.
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sickbag

posted on 3/10/08 at 08:10 AM Reply With Quote
Wow! £890 +VAT! for the pro version.

I've got a cheapo (£150) quickshifter on my (ex)race bike, that'll be transfered onto my car.

It has variable kill time too, which can lead to some very loud upchanges.

The actuator can be used both ways so I'll use the cheapo killbox on upshifts and configure something electromachanical for the downshifts. It'll certainly cost less than £1050!

[Edited on 3/10/08 by sickbag]

[Edited on 3/10/08 by sickbag]

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