Asked about this before but I need either a good guide to making them (Smart51?) or some one who can make a decent go of it.

Any ideas/places/people?

Locost being the theme

Fluke do some cool ones for Westies, any moulders up to it??

Steve

[Edited on 21/3/09 by coozer]

If we can convince Triton to make a batch, I'll have a pair in black please.

Cheers

Mike

i want some as well, like these

Id be up for some if we could get triton to make them

same,would love some

quote:

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Originally posted by goaty
same,would love some

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They would have to be model-specific, because every type of car has slightly different scuttle shape/angle, sill length, etc.

I got my tonneau made with 2 zips so I can leave the sides on as half doors. this works really well and cost nothing!

Caber

I haven't done a guide but here's how I did mine. I bought a few lengths of 10mm x 1mm wall steel tube, a bit of 20mm x 2mm flat bar. and some 6mm dia solid bar. The steel tube was bent by hand and over my knee to the desired shape. The top bar is parallel to the side from the top of the arch and bends near the front to be parallel to the scuttle / bonnet. The bottom bar follows the line of the rear arch and runs just below the top of the side panel. These are welded to the strip at the front which follows the angle of the dash. A short piece of the strip is welded to the rear ends of the tubes, spacing them apart.

The thick wire is bent into half elipse shapes to form the elbow room. The ends are welded to the tubes top and bottom with the apexes welded together. I spray painted them with zinc primer and black top coat.

The shells were made from two pieces of 2mm thick mounting card from a stationary shop. Tape them on with masking tape to hold it. The join of the 2 pieces follows the rear ellipse. I found that flat pieces bent to shape nicely.

I covered the outside with seating vinyl which had enough stretch to cover in 1 piece without any joins. Contact adhesive over most of the area has been fine for over a year. Something with a bit more hold for the seams might be a good idea.

I covered the inside with what ebay told me was fake suede. It was a bit thin but looked nice. You need some thin foam for padding if you don't want the folded over edges of the vinyl to show through.

Plenty of places sell lift off hinges. Reinforce the scuttle if bolting direct to the GRP with a steel plate at the back.

Spent yesterday pm shaping and bending a piece of ally sheet to make a half door for the drivers side . Doesn't look too bad although not as good as Paul (907) would have made . Need to make some hinges to suit as I haven't seen any I like. Going to use a sheet of Vybak for the sidescreens although I'm not sure if it's legal ?

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Originally posted by Humbug
They would have to be model-specific, because every type of car has slightly different scuttle shape/angle, sill length, etc.

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quote:

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Surely they sould be made with extra at the bottom and end and trimmed to your requriement?

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Fantastic idea, I'd be up for a set specially if in a similar style to the ones in omega0684's post further up.

Agree the the view above that one style with enough material to trim to specific model would be the sensible way to go but then I know nothing about molding in fibreglass.

Anyone fancy making the pattern then as they vary a bit...bloke/woman who maketh thine pattern gets a set buckshee.....

A pattern eh? Will do but what about the curve over the scuttle?

Excited

That's the only snag as 7's vary a bit there and not all have the same radius side to side but I suppose if made using woven cloth they could be persuaded to fit as it makes for a more flexible part...
My woven cloth cycle wings all but twist right round with no cracking of the gel coat where the standard ones would give up the ghost.

What about a pattern of the side with a bit of bar bent to match the scuttle rad??

More excited

I have an Indy scuttle somewhere so know I can match to that so if you did one to suit the MNR that makes two if the distance from scuttle to wing is more or less the same.?

I'll take some pics and do some measuring when I get home tonight.

I reckon the scuttle to back wing is a fair bit longer on the MNR just going of sitting in them like...

Thank you,
Steve

By pattern are we talking just like sticking a piece of paper over where the doors would sit and drawing the shape between scuttle, rear rad and top of chassis? I could possibly do a Mac#1 so that you have another marque to try.

You could do this :



Description

Took 10 mins with a needle and thread

I should Know the distance on the Mac1 but duffer getting old and can't remember....but yes and some idea on how deep the elbow bit wants to be because being a shortarse I would make it too small for everyone else..

I have a full size MK door if you want me to get some dims from that?

YQUSTA

FAO: Mr. Triton and his exceedingly good seats.

Here we go..

front of scuttle to rear arch for the bottom bar is 660 (690 overlapping?)


Height up the scuttle about 260. From this point back to the roll bar at the top point of the body is 1100 (1130 overlapping)


So front height without overlap is 260, going back to the roll bar level measuring back 520 from the bottom of the scuttle the height is 280



The scuttle is quite flat up to the 260 point but here would need to be a curve in the top to clear the steering wheel.

The height of the bodywork at the back is 50mm form the top of the arch to the top of the bodywork

Hows that? Is it all a bit too complicated without the car??

Steve

[Edited on 24/3/09 by coozer]

It appeas as though this project has died a death? Did anything come of the door manufacturing idea?

Don't know, but I might have a go at making a buck from MDF with some of the kids in tech at the school where I work and then forming some ABS over it when we get back in september...

This is what I was going to make out of plastic sheet.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9hGewsiVhUHmtaJ68rXR2w?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink

quote:

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Originally posted by RK
This is what I was going to make out of plastic sheet.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9hGewsiVhUHmtaJ68rXR2w?authkey=Gv1sRgCLfsoZrNyoKG4QE&feat=directlink

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Did this come to anything, i cant find them anywhere...

im busy now thinking of ways to make a set for the westy..

the ones sold by carbon mods can be bought in fibreglass for a lot less think about £70 ish if i remember right - than in carbon (£259 each + vat) - bolloxs to that.. way too expensive!



they will tho fit the westy and fit with a cage too!

one of the probs i have come across is access if you have a cage like i do - getting in and out can be a problem - climbing over the top is a possibility but at a last resort..

i reckon they can be made to be removable and leak proof in plastic

on the westy there is a ally kick strip on the sill - remove that

manufacture from 1.0mm ally sheet a bespoke piece that then becomes the sill going over the cage bar too - this keeps a lot of water blast out

the door itself i reckon would need to be stiff plastic (that can be warmed and bent slightly with a bit of pratice it should be easy enough with a heat gun)

placing waterproof rubber spongy sticky back sponge strips where the door touches the bodywork that would keep nearly all water out and take up variations in body profiles

the door needs to be in one piece - with a small ally 'L' section on the bottom rivetted on (this forms a face for the water seal and a point to fasten bungee loops for fixings) the bungee loops i saw in B&Q a while back quite cheap. using a hook to pull the door tight

it may be possible to add a small section on the front to meet the aero screen and this would vastly help with the 'right hand freezing syndrome'

what kinda plastic woul you recommend? ABS? the rest of the car is shiny black bits so a match to thos would be nice

[Edited on 10/10/09 by :{THC}:YosamiteSam]

I have a pair of the Fluke ones posted above by Alex.

They are Carbon/Kevlar inside and shiny Carbon outside that people are welcome to use to make moulds from???