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Nosecone widening
aerosam - 9/3/08 at 04:24 PM

How easy is it to widen a nosecone? I now have my BMW 530 donor, and the (V8) engine is approx 27-28" wide at the widest point of the heads so it may not fit in a +4" chassis.

I'm planning on making all the rest of the bodywork from ally anyway so it's just a nosecone I need.

I know the Luego Viento is about 6 inches wider than book, perhaps they would just sell me a nose?


scotty g - 9/3/08 at 04:54 PM

Form what i heard this week the problem with Luego is that they don't have anyone to do their fibreglassing so you may have to wait a VERY long time!
I'm surprised that the engine won't fit in a +4 chassis?


mark chandler - 9/3/08 at 06:46 PM

Cut down the middle in big wavy line, cut a couple of bits of wood to hold the cut pieces apart, duck tape over the gap then backfill with fibreglass extending over the join.

When cured pull off the duct tape, now fill and grind the new material to shape.

Regards Mark

[Edited on 9/3/08 by mark chandler]


Simon - 9/3/08 at 08:22 PM

^^^What he said, but in picture form

Nosecone unmodified
Nosecone unmodified


Nosecone cut in two
Nosecone cut in two


Nosecone rough joined
Nosecone rough joined


See avatar for finished item.

ATB

Simon


aerosam - 9/3/08 at 10:54 PM

Thanks Simon, although I notice you cut yours straight, is cutting in a wavy line critical? My only guess is that it would make the join stronger?


Simon - 9/3/08 at 11:30 PM

I can't cut wavy lines

ATB

Simon


Kaspa - 10/3/08 at 01:06 AM

once you cut the nose in half if you place a sheet off thin alloy on the topside and clamp that into position to follow the contour, pour on some gelcoat let that go tacky then fill with cloth impregnated resin, and jobs done.
i have just watched the experts widen my front splitter by 200mm to fit another car and was suprised at how easy it is to do, took about an hr from start to finnish
Kaspa


rick q - 10/3/08 at 02:53 AM

When I widened my front guards, I glued a block of wood across the cut line, fitted in place with wedges. Then once I'd cut the guards, another strip of wood could be fixed to the original to firstly ensure that the two sides were still in the same relationship to each other, and secondly, ensure that the amount they were widened was consistent, end to end.

The photoes show it better :-

Before they're cut

After they're cut


Notice particularly the technically advanced wavy cut for added strength - NAH ... I can't cut straight to save myself


mark chandler - 10/3/08 at 06:36 PM

Wavy line inceases the join area, its also helps you lose the effect of two straight line joins as the ends blend and gets rid of the risk of a crack as these tend to follow straight lines.

Wavy or zig zag is best IHMO.

Here's mine, +2" Rescued attachment small_front.JPG
Rescued attachment small_front.JPG