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Author: Subject: Which Sikaflex for bonding glass to steel?
r1_pete

posted on 19/12/18 at 02:00 PM Reply With Quote
Which Sikaflex for bonding glass to steel?

I’m rebuilding my Scimitar back window, originally the glass was forced into the 2 part U section frame with a rubber seal.

I figure a better job would be to use modern techniques, and use a bonding agent instead of the rubber.

Question is, which sikaflex do I need to bond glass to steel, and fill about a 3mm gap between the glass and frame??

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coyoteboy

posted on 19/12/18 at 03:31 PM Reply With Quote
Is that a great idea? I'm possibly a bit conservative but I'd be a little worried about more rigidly attaching a piece of glass to a flexible structure when it wasn't originally designed that way.






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loggyboy

posted on 19/12/18 at 03:52 PM Reply With Quote
https://gbr.sika.com/content/united_kingdom/sealantsandadhesives/en/index/Automotive/auto-glass.html





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daviep

posted on 19/12/18 at 04:09 PM Reply With Quote
Bonded windscreens / windows are smaller than the aperture, the bead of adhesive is laid on the face of the flange and the glass laid / pressed on top of it. I don't think suspending the glass within the aperture will be successful.

Using window rubbers is both simple and reliable.





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02GF74

posted on 19/12/18 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
I think your assumption that modern techniques are better. Applying a bead of sealant can be done by a robot followed by another plonking the screen in place, that would work out far cheaper than having a brummie fitted rubbers and screen in by hand.

Like the other posts I would recommend fitting as per original.






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sebastiaan

posted on 20/12/18 at 09:05 AM Reply With Quote
The old Alfa GTV's had a gasketed screen almost everywhere but in the USA. From '74 onwards they had to have bonded in screens to comply with US legislation. Thing is, the "glue in"screens were slightly larger compared to the gasket type. So if even Mario and Luigi at Alfa didn't dare to just plonk in the same screen with a bit of sikaflex, maybe you shouldn't either ;-)

If you really want to though, use Sikaflex 221 or 252. Both will do the job.

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loggyboy

posted on 20/12/18 at 09:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
I think your assumption that modern techniques are better. Applying a bead of sealant can be done by a robot followed by another plonking the screen in place, that would work out far cheaper than having a brummie fitted rubbers and screen in by hand.

Like the other posts I would recommend fitting as per original.


I hadn't realised Autoglass had fully automated their staff?





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Mr Whippy

posted on 20/12/18 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
I think your assumption that modern techniques are better. Applying a bead of sealant can be done by a robot followed by another plonking the screen in place, that would work out far cheaper than having a brummie fitted rubbers and screen in by hand.

Like the other posts I would recommend fitting as per original.


I hadn't realised Autoglass had fully automated their staff?


02GF74's comment is completely valid, just watch any modern production line, all glass is fitted by robots very quickly. The downside is yeah Autoglass etc have a far harder time replacing the glass when it gets broken and you have to wait an hour or so afterwards to drive the car. The other reason they do it is the structural glass they use these days is so strong it makes up a large proportion of the strength of the car, especially in a crash. That's why it is best leaving replacing windscreens to the professionals.

As for the original post, you'll probably find the glass is quite a bit smaller than the aperture so bonding in isn't an option unless you got new glass cut which would be very expensive. There's nothing wrong with the original method whatsoever if done correctly, I would just use it again.

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nick205

posted on 20/12/18 at 01:44 PM Reply With Quote
Last few tin tops I've had have had bonded in windscreens (and rear secreens). You might think they're harder work for Autoglass and the likes to replace, but having had to fit several windcreens into pop-in rubber channel that's really hard work and quite a scary prospect. You seem to have to exert an awful lot of force on the glass to get it to "pop-in" to the rubber channel.

So much force in fact you think the glass will give up and break. Never broke one though!

I'd imagine bonded in windscreens form a structural element of the chassis, probably adding stiffness (or having to deal with flex).

(edits to correct some typos)

[Edited on 21/12/18 by nick205]

[Edited on 21/12/18 by nick205]

[Edited on 21/12/18 by nick205]

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AlexXtreme

posted on 20/12/18 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
I would stick with the rubber seal.

I am not in the motor industry but for motor boats the thickness needs to be controlled to close tolerances to let the glass expand and contract as the glass can be at a different temperature to the body.

The glass give stiffness to the chassis but if the adhesive is not at an even thickness, any areas with thinner adhesive will see considerable higher stresses than others which can lead to the glass cracking.

The glass fitters for cars have a tool that holds the glass at the correct off set whilst it cures.

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