JC
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 04:08 AM |
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Will resin damage/stick....
Hi all,
I am about to make my aero screens for my midi. I have an old motorbike screen. My plan is simple - apply resin to the inside, add cloth, allow to
cure, remove, repeat! This will give me the 2 bubble screens I need! You can see the screen I am using here:
[img]
 
Description
[/img]
Will the fibreglass resin (cheapy stuff from local auto factors) damage/attack the screen and prevent me making the second screen? If so, my plan is
to tape the inside of the screen with packing tape before the first moulding. Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcomed!!!
Thanks. Jc
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luke2152
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 04:45 AM |
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I think it will stick to the screen too well to get off. You need some sort of antistick
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Talon Motorsport
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 06:29 AM |
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You need to use release wax (stuff in the red and blue tin most common) on the inside of the bike screen first which you apply with a sponge allow to
'haze dry' lightly polish then add another layer and repeat, you then need to use a thin coat of the blue pva release agent over the wax
and allow that to dry. You are then ready to start with the resign. Don't use tape as a barrier it will just become one awful rough mess very
quickly!
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 07:13 AM |
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I agree with talon - lots of wax, lots of polishing, and then a release agent. Blue PVA is a good one, and it's best sprayed if you want to get
a shiny surface. If you paint it on, the brush-strokes will appear in your part. An alternative I sometimes use is a chemical release agent. wipe on
with a lint-free cloth, buff and let it set. Repeat. Each chemical release agent has its own regime.
Also, I would look to put a gel-coat on first before you lay the cloth into the back. You can polish gel-coat and you can't polish raw glass. It
doesn't look especially aesthetically pleasing.
M
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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40inches
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 07:49 AM |
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If you are wanting an exact replica, why don't you buy another screen and spray them the colour you want?
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 08:09 AM |
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40inches - now that makes way more sense, and way less faff.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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JC
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 11:17 AM |
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Thanks for the suggestions - the screen came from an auto jumble and I am not sure what it came off!! Also, I want a return on it to attach it to the
scuttle!
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 11:22 AM |
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what you need to do is take a mould from the screen, then make two replicas of it. If the screen is flexible, exercise caution becuase the shape on
your bench when you make the mould may well be slightly different to how it is when bolted down.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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JC
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| posted on 26/9/14 at 08:37 AM |
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Thanks 
I appreciate the 'proper' way of doing it would be to make a mould! However, as the finished panel will be painted, if the surface
isn't perfect, I'm not too worried. I was really looking for a Locost way of doing it - time and hard work are free
Has anyone tried the parcel tape approach - from other sources I see a number of people saying it works, but not many who say they have done it!
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stevebubs
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| posted on 26/9/14 at 09:04 AM |
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If using tape, the result will vary depending on the quality of the tape - if it allows resin to seep through then it won't work...
I've always waxed and had no issues.....
[Edited on 26/9/14 by stevebubs]
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 26/9/14 at 09:09 AM |
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I've not seen anyone get by with packing tape - I'm not sure what release agent is left on that, and all it takes is a mistake that means
you don't have an edge properly stuck down and you have a lump.
I honestly think you'll spend more time and effort fettling a part than making a mould and cracking out two quite clean parts. In my limited
experience, I spend all the time on the mould - any imperfection you have there is transferred to the part.
If you're looking at halfords prices for what you need, then this stuff is way off the mark price-wise for this job, and the resins are also not
designed for part/mould making. Repair resins are much thicker and the catalyst far more aggressive. You wouldn't have enough time to lay it out
and get the bubbles out. check out east coast fibreglass supplies; they're experts in this and
the price for 5 msq of 450CSM, some gel-coat, resin and PVA will surprise you. They may even do kits for you to get started.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 26/9/14 at 01:35 PM |
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remember to the heat generated during curing can melt the glue on tape and distort the plastic screen. I've been through all this and it's
very annoying
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 26/9/14 at 02:04 PM |
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Mr Whippy makes a point. I often observe cure temps of 70C and above.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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The Black Flash
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| posted on 28/9/14 at 10:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
I've not seen anyone get by with packing tape - I'm not sure what release agent is left on that, and all it takes is a mistake that means
you don't have an edge properly stuck down and you have a lump.
I honestly think you'll spend more time and effort fettling a part than making a mould and cracking out two quite clean parts. In my limited
experience, I spend all the time on the mould - any imperfection you have there is transferred to the part.
If you're looking at halfords prices for what you need, then this stuff is way off the mark price-wise for this job, and the resins are also not
designed for part/mould making. Repair resins are much thicker and the catalyst far more aggressive. You wouldn't have enough time to lay it out
and get the bubbles out. check out east coast fibreglass supplies; they're experts in this and
the price for 5 msq of 450CSM, some gel-coat, resin and PVA will surprise you. They may even do kits for you to get started.
^^^ All of that.
Making a mould sounds a bit scary and a bit of a faff, and I tried to avoid it when making my bonnet bulge. But you know what? It really is the
easiest way in the long run, and gives the best finish as well, plus you can always make replacement parts in future. I ended up making one after
trying various other things, and it really wasn't hard
I used honey wax release agent which did the job fine. Cover the screen with that, take a mould, finish the inside nice and smooth, make parts.
I have used packing tape but you don't get a good finish. It does prevent things sticking though.
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JC
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| posted on 1/10/14 at 07:56 PM |
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OK, so I read all the advice and then gave it a go - with tape that is! Working on the basis that I can always make a mould from the other side! It
worked really well and the product looks good - it will need a gentle rub down and some fill-primer but overall I am pleased!
 
screen
The original screen.
 
Taped up
Taped Up ready to mould
 
in mould
Layering up the cloth
 
untrimmed
As it came out of the mould ready to trim!
Final product picture to follow!
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 2/10/14 at 06:40 AM |
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Congratulations. Your journey to the dark side has begun.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 2/10/14 at 12:00 PM |
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well done, looks a decent finish
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