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Author: Subject: Half a V6.......
clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 02:13 PM Reply With Quote
Half a V6.......

I've got the current Mx5 V6 to the point where it should run - but have spent the last week going around in circles . It will run , but only on three cylinders..........
Its an identical set-up to mine , and so far I have swapped the ECU , EDIS , and coil / leads over to my car (one at a time) and every time mine starts and runs fine . So many hours have been spent checking and double checking the wiring , and no problems found .
Its one whole bank that wont run - I even had the injectors and fuel rail hanging out still connected this morning , and all appears to work as intended .
I've checked the cam timing , and ignition timing , and got the throttle bodies as near to balanced as possible - and still only the one side running......................

Any ideas ?





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MikeRJ

posted on 17/11/13 at 02:28 PM Reply With Quote
That's a real puzzler. Have you tried a compression test just to double check the cam timing is correct?
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SPYDER

posted on 17/11/13 at 02:36 PM Reply With Quote
If you've seen the injectors firing correctly then it has to be an ignition problem. Are six sparks present? And in the right order? If the components are OK when individually transferred to another car then concentrate on the bits that havent been swapped. VR sensor? Battery voltage sufficient? Can you record a log during cranking to see if ignition events are occurring correctly?
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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 02:38 PM Reply With Quote
I have the cambelt covers off at the moment - all the timing marks line up - although with the exhaust cam being gear driven off the inlet its possible that the previous owner of this engine may have messed with it.......
I dont have a compression tester , but I do have a leak-down tester - gonna give that a try .





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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 02:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SPYDER
If you've seen the injectors firing correctly then it has to be an ignition problem. Are six sparks present? And in the right order? If the components are OK when individually transferred to another car then concentrate on the bits that havent been swapped. VR sensor? Battery voltage sufficient? Can you record a log during cranking to see if ignition events are occurring correctly?

It does spark on the duff side - I've tried the coil / leads on my car and it worked fine . I'm guessing the VR sensor (brand new) is OK since it starts with just the key , no throttle added .
The most puzzeling thing is the paired cylinders on the coil all work fine on one side of the engine - I've even tried swapping the injector loom over from side to side with no change .
Battery voltage - there is a charger plugged in while working on it - battery is showing 13.7 volts......





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owelly

posted on 17/11/13 at 02:51 PM Reply With Quote
Timing 180° out on that bank?
Does Easystart make it fire?





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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 03:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Timing 180° out on that bank?
Does Easystart make it fire?

Its running wasted spark , and the other cylinders in the pairs run fine , which also rules out the coil and leads .
Just done a leak-down , and all six cylinders are within a few % (all between 25% and 30% )

I've got a can of easystart somehwere in the garage...........





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jollygreengiant

posted on 17/11/13 at 03:20 PM Reply With Quote
It may sound stupid, but have you got a GOOD earth for the bank/set of injectors that are not firing. I had a similar problem with an injected pinto, had fuel, spark, compression just no running. Turned out to be A bad earth connection in one of the engine loom plugs.





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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 03:36 PM Reply With Quote
The engine has a good earth - welding cable with properly crimped ends - and all the megasquirt earths are on the block .
All the possible faults I can think of would effect all six cylinders........





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chrism

posted on 17/11/13 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
Only things I can think of are

knackered spark plugs on non working side

Bad earth for the plugs as said above, have you tried putting an earth directly to the head.

Head gasket gone so no compression on that side

Holed pistons on that side, although all 3 would be pretty unlucky.

Valves sticking open or bent if its an interference engine.

Compression test kits can be bought for not much and can I would say essential for setting up engines.





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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 04:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chrism
Only things I can think of are

knackered spark plugs on non working side

Bad earth for the plugs as said above, have you tried putting an earth directly to the head.

Head gasket gone so no compression on that side

Holed pistons on that side, although all 3 would be pretty unlucky.

Valves sticking open or bent if its an interference engine.

Compression test kits can be bought for not much and can I would say essential for setting up engines.


I've swapped plugs - side to side , from a warm , running engine , and even tried new ones.........

Bad earth.....theres two heads , both bolted to the same block and to each other - cant see that one happening

Head gasket or holed pistons.......leakdown test is the same on all six cylinders

Non-interference engine - with no bent or sticking valves , as proved by the leakdown test





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mark chandler

posted on 17/11/13 at 04:25 PM Reply With Quote
Bad battery to the injectors on one side, megasquirt triggers by earthing the injector so trace back to the main relay.
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big_wasa

posted on 17/11/13 at 04:28 PM Reply With Quote
When stripping an engine I ether put a rag or tap over any open ports. Nothing left in the inlet is there ?
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rusty nuts

posted on 17/11/13 at 04:31 PM Reply With Quote
Have you got a vacuum port on the inlet manifold, a vacuum gauge is a very underrated diagnostic tool which will show up all sorts of engine faults.Loads of info on the web with diagnostic readings. By the sounds of it you have eliminated everything but the valve timing although similar symptoms could be cause by lack of tappet clearances
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AdrianH

posted on 17/11/13 at 04:38 PM Reply With Quote
Not sure if this is possible with heads and plug angles etc. But, you have tried everything else.

Stick a piece of wooden dowel down the plug hole and with rocker cover off on one of the dead cylinders crank by hand and watch the dowel rise and fall work out when on compression stroke and put a timing mark on the crank a few degrees before TDC for that cylinder, then back together with a timing light check it is sparking at that point, you could even do it for all the cylinders to make sure you have a good even spread

Not sure what firing order you have out of the following, or even something different
1-5-3-6-2-4
1-4-3-6-2-5
1-6-5-4-3-2
1-2-3-4-5-6
1-4-2-5-3-6
1-4-5-2-3-6
1-6-3-2-5-4
1-6-2-4-3-5
1-6-2-5-3-4

You could even map them all out on the pulley, just a way of checking that gear you mentioned and checking it exhaust timing is doing as you would expect.

Adrian





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theconrodkid

posted on 17/11/13 at 05:08 PM Reply With Quote
mainfold air leak ?,give a squirt of wd40 or similar around the area,have you got more than one TPS switch,one could be duff.





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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 05:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Bad battery to the injectors on one side, megasquirt triggers by earthing the injector so trace back to the main relay.

I've tried swapping the injector loom from side to side , it made no difference...........





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Claire xx

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mark chandler

posted on 17/11/13 at 06:01 PM Reply With Quote
Does the fuel rail circulate between all cylinders, try squirting some fuel straight into the inlet and see if that has any effect.

As you are running lost spark unless you have the firing order wrong it's highly unlikely to be the HT side, maybe a snapped camshaft on that side.

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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 06:15 PM Reply With Quote
This is the engine I'm having trouble with........




Throttle bodies - so no manifold as such , the fuel rails are in series and the injectors are batch-fired .





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davidimurray

posted on 17/11/13 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
If the fuel rails are in series could one be stealing fuel from the other? Is it the first rail bank that runs ok? How about popping both fuel rails out and pointing them into 6 containers to compare the amount the are flowing?





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dave

posted on 17/11/13 at 07:14 PM Reply With Quote
Dont know the set up but have you checked the gap on the crankshaft pick up. My 4 cylinder MX5 only ran on 3 and i discovered that this was the problem. worth a try.
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DIY Si

posted on 17/11/13 at 07:17 PM Reply With Quote
Only thing I can think of with these engines is misaligned cams on that bank. You've checked pretty much everything else!

Have you got the Mazda factory manual for the KL? If not, the alignment marks are on the head side of the sprockets, two dots that should line up. Only issue being that this means at least one set of valves is compressed, so it's a shite to do right first time.





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Mr C

posted on 17/11/13 at 07:20 PM Reply With Quote
Are the correct trigger wheels fitted,, crank and camshaft??





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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
The cambelt has been off , and back on again (replacement belt was wrong - damn ebay) , so cam timing was done with the cam covers off - easy with four hands (two to hold the cams in place with spanners , two to re-fit the belt and tensioner)
I have a spare engine in the garage , and the timing marks match the engine in the car .

I have a 35thou air gap on the crank sensor - too much ?





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Claire xx

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clairetoo

posted on 17/11/13 at 07:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr C
Are the correct trigger wheels fitted,, crank and camshaft??

Its a 36/1 trigger wheel , fitted to the back of the bottom pulley with a ford VR sensor in the stock position




The whole setup is the same as my own V6 Mx5......but mine runs !





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Claire xx

Will weld for food......

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