sdh2903
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| posted on 7/1/16 at 04:46 PM |
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Well as promised. The fiat master cyl has arrived. No retaining circlip. Although I think would be very easy to knock up a retainer as the end of the
pushrod is domed.
 
Mastcyl
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micksalt
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| posted on 7/1/16 at 07:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Well as promised. The fiat master cyl has arrived. No retaining circlip. Although I think would be very easy to knock up a retainer as the end of the
pushrod is domed.
Mastcyl
Ah, bad luck, however, easily fixed with a retaining bracket attached to the pedal side of the bulkhead with that particular push rod.
 
FabricatedBracket
I'll wait to see what Marc has to say before I do anything drastic. If I don't like the solution I may fork out for the Westfield retained
master cylinder.
[Edited on 7/1/2016 by micksalt]
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micksalt
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| posted on 10/1/16 at 08:41 AM |
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If I had access to a lathe, this would be my solution.
 
MX5Pushrod
The critical dimension is the radius of the middle section of the pushrod, it should be small enough to enter the body of the pushrod, even accounting
for small angular deflections of the pushrod, but large enough to pass through the slit of the fabricated bracket.
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jim87
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| posted on 10/1/16 at 07:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by micksalt
If I had access to a lathe, this would be my solution.
MX5Pushrod
The critical dimension is the radius of the middle section of the pushrod, it should be small enough to enter the body of the pushrod, even accounting
for small angular deflections of the pushrod, but large enough to pass through the slit of the fabricated bracket.
You could just extend the thread on your existing pushrod, and use a nut as the stopper. If the nut is too big then you could grind it down to
size.
I actually ended up buying a small lathe for this kind of thing - not really necessary, but you can make bespoke stuff like this easily
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micksalt
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| posted on 28/1/16 at 08:55 AM |
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I've contacted MNR to see what is being done to address the pedal issue, and Marc is indeed getting to grips with the new lathe to engineer the
solution. I'd better get cracking, I've had a lazy month....
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jim87
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| posted on 28/1/16 at 12:13 PM |
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While you're looking at the pedals, you might want to think about the accelerator pedal.
I've been having a problems with it sticking a little. I think its probably because one the plastic bushings on the pedal isn't quite
square.
I've taken them out now, and am replacing them with aluminium spacers and bearings.
A return spring might help, but that'd be much easier without all the bodywork in place !
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micksalt
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| posted on 29/1/16 at 11:52 AM |
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Thankfully, I have a box full of bushings and bits donated to me by a friend for fixing his computer should I have problems with the accelerator
pedal.
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micksalt
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| posted on 4/2/16 at 03:25 PM |
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Please can I ask anyone that has built the Mazda based kit to take a photo of the upper rear suspension where it attaches to the upright? As it
stands, it looks liek the gap in the upper arm is much wider than the top bushing of the upright, and I want to make sure this is correct. It just
seems a little odd for the bushing just to be held into position by the friction-fit into the upright, rather than being backed up by appropriate
spacers each side. Ta in advance 
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jim87
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| posted on 5/2/16 at 10:45 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by micksalt
Please can I ask anyone that has built the Mazda based kit to take a photo of the upper rear suspension where it attaches to the upright? As it
stands, it looks liek the gap in the upper arm is much wider than the top bushing of the upright, and I want to make sure this is correct. It just
seems a little odd for the bushing just to be held into position by the friction-fit into the upright, rather than being backed up by appropriate
spacers each side. Ta in advance
I don't have a photo at the moment, but I remember I had to put 3 or 4 washers in between the top upright mount/bush and the bottom damper
mount, to pack it out so that there was no gap.
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l5tuy
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| posted on 5/2/16 at 11:01 AM |
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Same here bud. Think I used 1 washer between each joint to space everything out which kept it all tight. From memory had to use vice to press
bushings into upright.
1 thing I did notice is the upright and lower diameter of suspension strut had a slight rub.
I'll have photo's, pain in the ass loading them onto here though. Give me an e-mail of Facebook and i'll send you some.
Stu
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jim87
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| posted on 5/2/16 at 11:10 AM |
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I needed at least 3 washers in between damper and upright to avoid the rubbing you mention. With 4 in, everything lined up ans was nice and tight.
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micksalt
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| posted on 8/2/16 at 02:18 PM |
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Cheers folks, I see how it all works now. I'm running out of jobs to do before I'll need the MNR fix for the brake master cylinder. Still,
it'll take a while to order all the other parts I need for the engine and gearbox.
I'll get some pictures up soon with the latest and final painting jobs.
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micksalt
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| posted on 17/3/16 at 08:29 AM |
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Big order arrived from MX5-Parts yesterday, I'll get cracking again
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micksalt
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| posted on 19/3/16 at 11:25 PM |
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Whilst working on the car yesterday, I realised that all the EGR delete kits don't block the exhaust manifold end, so you're left with the
weight and engine bay clutter of the connecting pipe. Not any more
 
RedneckEGRDelete
 
EGRDelete
Anyway, next issue, the O/S flexible brake hose from the MX-5 is permanently joined to a 2-way connector block. How have folk plumbed up their rear
brake hoses? The rear flexi-hoses on an MX-5 are handed, so it's not as if I can order another N/S hose and use that. By the way, all reference
I make to N/S and O/S are relative to the MX-5, I know they swap sides on the Vortx.
Cheers in advance,
Mick
[Edited on 19/3/2016 by micksalt]
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micksalt
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| posted on 20/3/16 at 04:59 PM |
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Mystery solved thanks to Stu, the flexi hoses should have been included in the kit!
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micksalt
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| posted on 18/4/16 at 11:00 AM |
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Flexi hoses have now turned up amongst a goodie bag of a fair few other parts. Marc is still getting to grips with his lathe, but is working on the
push-rod fix
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micksalt
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| posted on 22/4/16 at 07:39 AM |
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A little indulgence on the brake caliper refurbishment:
 
BiggRed
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james h
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| posted on 23/4/16 at 07:50 PM |
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Hi Mick,
If you don't mind, could you tell me how much you paid Bigg Red for the calipers? My friend's mk1 MX5 has binding brakes at the moment, so
much so that the pads have worn all the way down over 18 months!!
Cheers,
James
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micksalt
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| posted on 23/4/16 at 08:11 PM |
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£296 including new slider pins and return postage. I think the outbound postage was about £16, so £312 all in for all four calipers.
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james h
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| posted on 23/4/16 at 08:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by micksalt
£296 including new slider pins and return postage. I think the outbound postage was about £16, so £312 all in for all four calipers.
Thanks 
I just rang my friend, turns out she's bought some none OEM replacements anyway!
[Edited on 23/4/16 by james h]
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micksalt
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| posted on 23/5/16 at 06:07 PM |
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PUBLIC DECLARATION: I am a muppet.
I fired Marc an email to find out where he was up to with the new retained pushrod design. The response I got that he had already sent me the
prototype, and then the penny dropped, the curious looking bolt I received in addition to all my other parts WAS the push rod modification, intended
to be retained by the original master cylinder circlip.
 
Push Rod
Two minutes with a pair of circlip pliers, and the problem was solved
 
Master Cylinder
Now I've got the big event at the railway out of the way, I can get properly cracking.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 23/5/16 at 06:32 PM |
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Get cracking? Thought you'd have finished by now!
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micksalt
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| posted on 23/5/16 at 06:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Get cracking? Thought you'd have finished by now!
I wish, too busy sorting this event out http://www.ww1-event.org
[Edited on 23/5/2016 by micksalt]
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micksalt
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| posted on 26/5/16 at 10:34 AM |
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*** EDIT: the push rod fix DOES work, please see my follow-up thread ***
Bummer, the MNR push-rod fix doesn't work. It seemed like an elegant solution in principle, but the washer and push rod hold the master cylinder
too far in for the inlet ports to be exposed, so there's no way to get fluid into the system. A little bit disappointed if I'm honest, I
expected something more like my proposal after waiting months 
MX5Pushrod
[Edited on 28/5/2016 by micksalt]
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sdh2903
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| posted on 26/5/16 at 12:45 PM |
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I'd just bin off the std mx5 unit anyway. You'll get a much better feel from a smaller bore cylinder that's designed for non servo
applications anyway.
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