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Author: Subject: Electrical Brake light switch
richiekuk

posted on 6/3/13 at 10:14 AM Reply With Quote
Electrical Brake light switch

Hey all.

I am looking to replace the "very poor" pressure brake light switch in my Fisher Fury with an electrical (microswitch) one.

I would like the brake lights to come on as soon as I touch the brakes, not half way down the pedal travel.

I was wondering what switches people had fitted and how they are mounted (bulkhead, or pedal box).

Any info greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Richie K

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nre

posted on 6/3/13 at 11:11 AM Reply With Quote
I used one of these: http://www.maplin.co.uk/low-cost-standard-microswitches-6453

There are some pics of my installation here: http://www.neileverett.madasafish.com/mods/mods_brake_light.htm

[Edited on 6/3/13 by nre]





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mcerd1

posted on 6/3/13 at 11:32 AM Reply With Quote
my old fiesta had a nice adjustable one that I plan to use for my dax

it lasted well in my fiesta - only had to adjust it once - not bad for a 30 year old car


the switch sticks out of a length of plastic threaded rod so it only needs a plate with a hole in it to mount it near part of the pedal - and you only need a locknut to hold it in position (or 2 depending on how its fitted)


like this pic:


get down to your local scrapyard - have a look in any of the older fords (70's - 90's ) they all seem more or less the same and shouldn't cost more than a couple of beer tokens at the most
if you take one from a scrap car you can probably cut the braket off the car too

I'm sure some other makes have similar switches too...



[Edited on 6/3/2013 by mcerd1]





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britishtrident

posted on 6/3/13 at 12:14 PM Reply With Quote
As brake lights have a 21 watt bulbs check the current rating of any switch you buy to allow a safety margin I would look for one rated at at least 6 amps DC

Most cars of the 1970s onwards had pedal mounted brake light switches see

Lucas 124SA Brake Light Switch for Triumph TR, Mini, Reliant, SD1. SMB421 134529 | eBay

Vehicles of tye 1950s tend use pull operated switches as do older motorcycles the connect to the pedal via a spring.

YAMAHA FS1E FS1 E FS1-E REAR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH | eBay

also see this page http://www.completeautomobilist.com/categories/complete-automobilist-auto-electrical-switch


Genuine Lucas hydraulic brake light switches work fine but as far as I know they all have UNF threads.





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richiekuk

posted on 6/3/13 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers for the reply guys.

I actually have a micro switch similar to the maplin one, from a broken Audi boot release mechanism, i could use.

Am I right in thinking that if I want the light to come on at the first touch of the pedal (microswitch made), then the rest of the pedal travel will damage the microswitch, as there must be 3 inches of travel from rest to full brake.

Must admit, these are little things I never thought about initially.

cheers

Richie K

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loggyboy

posted on 6/3/13 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
You want a switch is press to break, that way you can have switch on the other side of the pedal so that when you press it, it releases the switch and that makes the circut. Then it doest have to touch the switch till you release the pedal.





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mcerd1

posted on 6/3/13 at 02:29 PM Reply With Quote
^^ what he said - you need a "normally closed" type switch

the ford ones I mentioned and the more generic ones britishtrident mentioned both make the contact when they are released - i.e. when your not breaking the pedal pushes the switch and breaks the circuit

[Edited on 6/3/2013 by mcerd1]





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Trollyjack

posted on 6/3/13 at 10:05 PM Reply With Quote
Why not do away with mechanical type and fit 1 of these inline





TrollyJack

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bi22le

posted on 6/3/13 at 10:29 PM Reply With Quote
i had the same problem i think. i had to stamp on my brakes before the lights come on.

i brought a new hydraulic switch and ir works a treat.

search for my post. i reference part numbers but i thick they look the same as the ones mentioned by trollyjack.





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britishtrident

posted on 6/3/13 at 11:56 PM Reply With Quote
The problem with hydraulic pressure operated switches is due to a combination of the low hydraulic line pressures in Locost brake systems and the insensitivity of the the non-genuine hydraulic switches which are the only type commonly available.





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mcerd1

posted on 7/3/13 at 09:51 AM Reply With Quote
also alot of people have had issues getting them blead properly (although I've been told you can cure this my mounting the switch upside down)

and if the switch ever fails you have to mess about with the brake lines


so IMHO the mechanical swich on the pedal has to be the simplest option - it even has the option of easily adjusting at what point the lights come on

as far as I know most of the big car makers still use mechanical switches, they wouldn't do it if the hydraulic ones were better/cheaper

[Edited on 7/3/2013 by mcerd1]





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rusty nuts

posted on 7/3/13 at 09:37 PM Reply With Quote
IIRC some of the old Citroens had a fairly sensitive brake light switch under the pedal rubber that would put the brake lights on with very light pedal pressure
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bi22le

posted on 7/3/13 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
also alot of people have had issues getting them blead properly (although I've been told you can cure this my mounting the switch upside down)

and if the switch ever fails you have to mess about with the brake lines


so IMHO the mechanical swich on the pedal has to be the simplest option - it even has the option of easily adjusting at what point the lights come on

as far as I know most of the big car makers still use mechanical switches, they wouldn't do it if the hydraulic ones were better/cheaper

[Edited on 7/3/2013 by mcerd1]


Yup. my switch is on the highest point of the paperwork so doubles as a bleed valve. i think if i build new a mechanical one suitable measured would work better purely due to advisability but for existing systems that have a hydraulic switch, just change the switch. locost baby!!





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Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

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britishtrident

posted on 7/3/13 at 11:06 PM Reply With Quote
Pressure is presure is pressure. Presure is force/area, a pressure switch dosen't care whether the medium under pressure is liquid or gas.





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beaver34

posted on 7/3/13 at 11:28 PM Reply With Quote
I had same issue,

Made this, bolt down with the pedal box and chats a nice foot rest too, used micro switches the are on when released works great


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mcerd1

posted on 8/3/13 at 10:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Pressure is presure is pressure. Presure is force/area, a pressure switch dosen't care whether the medium under pressure is liquid or gas.

I didn't mean that any air would stop the switch working - just that it could be enough to make the pedal feel a little soft...





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richiekuk

posted on 14/3/13 at 10:13 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I think I will go with a pull to break electrical switch, once I get a new pedal box (new thread).

Thanks Again

Richie K

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adithorp

posted on 14/3/13 at 10:22 AM Reply With Quote
I've had a look at doing this on my Fury a coupleof times. Fitting a push switch is problematic on the Fury bottom mount pedals. I came tothe conclution I'd needed a pull switch but never got around to doing it.





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Angel Acevedo

posted on 9/3/19 at 01:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by beaver34
I had same issue,

Made this, bolt down with the pedal box and chats a nice foot rest too, used micro switches the are on when released works great





Beaver34,
Your arrangement is closer to mine than Coskev3 is (see other brakelight thread); Do you have any comments on how the pedal feels while driving having the Footrest there?
Thanks.
AA





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ste

posted on 9/3/19 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfRi1NDUbCyh5Wsx7

I tapped a thread under the pedal and mounted a push to break brake light switch on a small bracket. Video shows the clutch one, but did same on brake pedal.

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 11/3/19 at 03:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ste
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfRi1NDUbCyh5Wsx7

I tapped a thread under the pedal and mounted a push to break brake light switch on a small bracket. Video shows the clutch one, but did same on brake pedal.



Thanks for posting ste...
I wish I had seen the video before, that solution is extremely neat..
Actually.... While you were posting, I was hacking away at my pedalbox....
My solution is more cumbersome, I need to asess if I can do that on my pedalbox, it is a Compbrake unit and my pedals are a bit different.
I´ll post again if I go about it, it.
Best regards.
Angel Acevedo





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