Getting older and got a VERY bad back at the moment, don't want to push a clutch pedal anymore!!
Any suggestions for reliable older auto cars or estates etc.
Honda Civic circa 2002 -2004?
Peugeot 307 etc ?
Toyota of some sort?
Any Citroens , Picasso etc......
I suppose there is also the MX5 Auto!!!!!, but not practical enough.
Don't really want Ford, they never worked out how to make a comfortable seat!!!!
[Edited on 7/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
I've got an E class estate, P reg, 80,000 miles full service history, 7 seater, one owner from new, runs and drives like a dream, only downside it's petrol but cost me half your budget! I love it haha
Volvo d5. You'll probably get a decent s60 for that. I just sold mine for £1k with 80k and full history. It was a superb engine and a lovely place to sit. Full heated leather and all extras. Pretty quick too!
quote:
Originally posted by Rosco86
I've got an E class estate, P reg, 80,000 miles full service history, 7 seater, one owner from new, runs and drives like a dream, only downside it's petrol but cost me half your budget! I love it haha
My v70 d5 is superb, one may be just in your range now, it may be big but is cheap to run if that's your criteria and extremely comfortable.
Thankyou I wouldn't have thought along these lines!!, I don't think of Mercs and Volvo as in my range or sensible enough!!
More suggestions welcome...
It's by no means the perfect car but I really like the. 1st Gen Saab 9-3. Good seats, 185bhp as standard (and much more possible) plus a bit of
style too.
Do your 'cracked bulkhead' research first though.
You should get a belter for your money.
blimey you guys like your giant cars!!
quote:
Originally posted by Surrey Dave
blimey you guys like your giant cars!!
What about a Rover 75, it will be very very comfy and also cheap.
quote:
Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
What about a Rover 75, it will be very very comfy and also cheap.
Now that sounds quite interesting, particularly the estate/tourer........reliable? ?....economical?.......good gearbox?
Do i need brogue shoes and a handlebar moustache?
[Edited on 8/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
quote:
Originally posted by Surrey Dave
Now that sounds quite interesting, particularly the estate/tourer........reliable? ?....economical?.......good gearbox?
Do i need brogue shoes and a handlebar moustache?
[Edited on 8/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
quote:
Originally posted by Surrey Dave
Now that sounds quite interesting, particularly the estate/tourer........reliable? ?....economical?.......good gearbox?
Do i need brogue shoes and a handlebar moustache?
[Edited on 8/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
You'll get a nice 318ti for that, I've not owned one but test drove one with Red seats and it was like a much more practical version of my
Eunos (Also an Auto, can't drive a manual due to disability).
Best bet though, see what meets your requirements near by and test drive.
dont laugh but skoda! comfortable and a vw underneath for a fraction of the price.
Small modern automatics are general CVT and as a result often burn out in 40,000 miles or less. 1600cc and above are mostly conventional automtatics
with the JATCO 5 speed almost industry standard it is not as tough as old style BW auto boxes and had serious teething problems which were mostly
sorted by 2003 but it is a lot more durable than a CVT.
One thing to watch for on automatics is the road tax group generally jumps up by one or two groups compared to the manual this can be a huge
difference on a larger car. A few years back I had the chance to buy a very low mileage MG ZT 190 but didn't because the road tax cost was
enormous compared to my Rover 75 1.8 manual.
As Rover 75/MG ZT the only real mechanical worry is the front wishbones and bushes the OEM wishbones and bushes last for 80,000 miles plus but
replacements are of variable quality some last less than a year. As these are costly parts and changing them can usually involve dropping the front
subframe this is not good news, so it pays to buy good quality wishbones Low cost poly bushes are now available and I recently fitted as set to my
current 75. Otherwise these are very reliable cheap to maintain cars.
The Rover 75 Touring Diesel Automatic is looking like a great option, specially with some wood and leather !!!!
The MG ZT-T also looks interesting but the ride is harder ? ,, and the interior not so retro luxurious?
Just a matter of finding one reasonably local to have a go at. ideally would want one with upto 100k on the clock..
[Edited on 9/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
pop onto the 75 and zt forum website and see whats in there.
for me the best thing you can do is buy from an enthusiast that has lavished attention on it.
check around too to see if you can see a good local specialist. quite a few people have had crap advice and unnecessary work done by people who dont
know anything about the cars.
find a good one you can trust and they can be very good cars and like others have said very comfortable. its also possible to find low mileage ones
that have had easy lives with elderly owners.
i had a rover saloon (v6) and just sold my zt260 (v8) they are cracking.
paul
Really not much difference between the 75 and ZT suspension wise, especially on an older cars as the springs dampers and front bushes will have been
changed for generic replacements. One thing to keep in mind is on these cars tyre life is significantly shorter when fitted with 16" or
17" wheels while they grip and steering response improves ride quality is also affected.
The biggest difference suspension wise is the anti-roll bars, all ZT have anti-roll-bars most 75 lack a rear ant-roll bar and only have a skinny
anti-roll bar on the front. A rear arb is an easy retrofit.
The ammountof steering power assistance ratio was reduced slightly when the ZT was introduced but this was latter applied to the 75, personally I
preferred the original setup.
Some but not all 75 have rear seat backs that fold forwards for carrying loads.
One feature that is highly desirable is the Climate Control Computer pack.
On cars with electric seat adjustment it is quite often common to find they are jammed and the motor burn't out due coins jammed in the
runners.
Check all the doors and on later cars the boot unlock work with the fob remote.
quote:.
Originally posted by ianm67
quote:
Originally posted by Surrey Dave
Now that sounds quite interesting, particularly the estate/tourer........reliable? ?....economical?.......good gearbox?
Do i need brogue shoes and a handlebar moustache?
[Edited on 8/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
I have had no issues with mine at all in the eight months that I have owned it. I get low to mid 40's out of it on a long run and low to mid 30's out of it on the commute. Get a late one and it will have 135bhp, an early one and it will have 115bhp. Easily remapped to 160bhp for around £150....... Stick the auto box in 'sport' mode and you'll surprise quite a few supposedly sportier motors. The load space is huge and the car is very well built (easily as good as similar vintage BMW's.....) If you can get over the inevitable badge snobbery from those that have never owned / driven one you'll get yourself a nice car for not much money....
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
That fuel consumption is very similar to 1.8 petrol, mine have all returned 32/31mpg in summer urban use 29mpg in winter urban, on a long run the 43 to 49 mpg. The urban figure would be better but my daily journeys always include a very long steep incline.
quote:
Originally posted by ianm67
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
That fuel consumption is very similar to 1.8 petrol, mine have all returned 32/31mpg in summer urban use 29mpg in winter urban, on a long run the 43 to 49 mpg. The urban figure would be better but my daily journeys always include a very long steep incline.
Was your 1.8 an auto or a manual..?
We went for a Saab 9-3 2.0T auto Estate. Can't knock it for the money.
Yes the Saab looks a solid car , what are the diesels like , whats all this cracked bulkhead mullarkey?
What Diesel engine do they use?
By the way I've had my trusty Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDI diesel for about six years , very comfortable cruiser and economical , but common fault
with Citroens the clutch gets heavy, and my back seems to have had enough of that now!!!!!!!!!!
[Edited on 10/12/14 by Surrey Dave]
The clutch fault may be similar to something that occurson some old Rover models on these the clutch fork shaft runs across the bell housing with, the shaft has no proper bearings but runs directly on holes directly in the bell housing casting. After a few years use corrosion causes the shaft to of progressively seize up.
I've had a Seat Leon 1.9TDI Cupra for a few years now and found it to be a good car, if you ignore the periodic leaks appearing from the door and the camshaft replacement I had to do. Not sure what the autos are like though I'm afraid!
I understood the problem with Citroen clutches is that heat effects the cover assy , and makes the springing tougher,
Have obviously changed clutch cables and that MOST annoying plastic clip that joins the cable to the pedal, anyone done that it is literally enough to
make a grown man cry with frustration!!!!!!!!!!! Sacred Bleu!!!!!!
If you're after a small car with a roomy interior it may well be worth considering a 5-door Mitsubishi Colt circa 2006 model. They really are
tardis-like inside. I'm 6ft tall and sat in the rear with front seat fully back I still have a few inches between knees and seat back with plenty
of headroom.
They can come with a peppy 1500cc 94bhp diesel and semi-auto box ( can be left in fully automatic or 'tiptronic' type manual changes if you
prefer)
The rear seats are very versatile as they can be independently slid forward and back, tilted forward or removed completely.
So in short, a very versatile small car with big-car interior room, 50-plus mpg and Japanese reliability.
Getting one for sub £1600 may be a little optimistic though (but not impossible for a higher mileage example.)