lordbenny
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| posted on 23/2/16 at 03:10 PM |
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Really hard to start until it's connected to another car!
Zetec Westfield is really hard to start from cold. It's got a brand new BIG battery so I know it's not that, it turns over ok but just
keeps turning. It usually eventually starts up but today if just gave up until, on pressing the startebutton, I got nothing. As soon as I put the jump
leads on it fired up first time. What could this be? Dodgy starter?
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HowardB
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| posted on 23/2/16 at 03:30 PM |
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check the voltage drop on cranking, there was another thread on here not long ago asking similar questions,...
thread
and here too
hthmore
[Edited on 23/2/16 by HowardB]
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again  and goes zoom)
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benchmark51
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| posted on 23/2/16 at 04:45 PM |
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Check the earth leads are tight and not getting warm when cranking. Try a jump cable from battery earth to starter body. Poor earth between engine and
chassis have caused this problem several times for me in the past.
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AntonUK
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| posted on 23/2/16 at 05:50 PM |
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I had a similar issue and after checking the above suggestions I pulled the starter open to find it full of crud. I cleaned it up and worked fine
afterwards.
Build Photos Here
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Sam_68
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| posted on 23/2/16 at 07:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by benchmark51
Check the earth leads are tight and not getting warm when cranking. Try a jump cable from battery earth to starter body. Poor earth between engine and
chassis have caused this problem several times for me in the past.
Yep, this would be my first best guess, too.
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paulc
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| posted on 23/2/16 at 09:54 PM |
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I had a similar issue,
Turned out to be a build up of corrosion between the battery terminal and the cable clamp.
(look for a voltage between the terminal and the clamp when cranking)
Paul
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garyo
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| posted on 24/2/16 at 09:08 AM |
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Had a similar problem - turned out to be fuel pressure drop on cranking, and lack of non-return valve. Easy way to test is to manually earth the
injectors for half a second to fill the manifold with mist then try again. If it fires, then voltage drop/fuelling is the issue.
Did it ever work?
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lordbenny
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| posted on 24/2/16 at 07:16 PM |
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I'm going to get it rolling roaded in the spring....it's on carbs by the way....would they be able to adjust the static cranking voltage
when hooked up to the ecu?
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Phil_1471
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| posted on 24/2/16 at 08:48 PM |
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Sounds like an earth issue, check resistance from Earth terminal to various points with an decent ohm meter, or get a jump cable and Earth from
battery to engine block etc and see if that sorts it..
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
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lordbenny
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| posted on 24/2/16 at 09:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Phil_1471
Sounds like an earth issue, check resistance from Earth terminal to various points with an decent ohm meter, or get a jump cable and Earth from
battery to engine block etc and see if that sorts it..
Going to try this at the weekend and get back to you all....thanks.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/2/16 at 09:54 PM |
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Not an unkown issue on Zetec transplants the problem is to do with EDIS giving too much advance at low speed for the Zetec due to a crank senor wiring
issue.
The cause is likely be the Vrs+ and Vrs- wires on the crankshaft variable reluctor position sensor are reversed. This results in a phase shift in the
sensor signal. The sensor should output a sine wave everytime a tooth passes the sensor but reversing the wires inverts it turning it into a cosine
wave shifting the ignition timing by 10 degrees.
https://www.autosportlabs.net/images/5/54/EDIS_system_diagram.png
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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lordbenny
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| posted on 24/2/16 at 10:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Not an unkown issue on Zetec transplants the problem is to do with EDIS giving too much advance at low speed for the Zetec due to a crank senor wiring
issue.
The cause is likely be the Vrs+ and Vrs- wires on the crankshaft variable reluctor position sensor are reversed. This results in a phase shift in the
sensor signal. The sensor should output a sine wave everytime a tooth passes the sensor but reversing the wires inverts it turning it into a cosine
wave shifting the ignition timing by 10 degrees.
https://www.autosportlabs.net/images/5/54/EDIS_system_diagram.png
Are you suggesting that I should swap the wires over?
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Phil_1471
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| posted on 4/3/16 at 04:17 PM |
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What was the verdict then?
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
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lordbenny
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| posted on 4/3/16 at 09:17 PM |
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That's a good question....I havnt cured the problem myself...it still is difficult start from cold. I am waiting for the weather to improve
before I take it to Novatech for a tune up. http://www.novatech.info/contactus.html
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AlanH
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| posted on 4/3/16 at 10:39 PM |
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I've got a similar problem and posted it recently. Poor cold starting on a pinto. Starts OK when warm.
Checked earth and that's OK. Need to check voltage drop on battery next then I'll check for a lazy starter.
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lordbenny
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| posted on 5/3/16 at 11:19 AM |
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I tried connecting a jump lead from the negative Earth on the battery to the starter motor and I also removed the earth terminal where it meets the
chassis and cleaned that up. I think my problem may lie in my start up procedure and the carbs. I have 45mm Dellortos so after turning on the fuel pum
and waiting for everything t fill up I give it three pumps. I then turn over the engine not touching the throttle....I MIGHT start then but if you
don't catch it, that's it's it! So, I'm now thinking it may be a carb issue. Will let you know once it's stopped
showing!
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