Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Duratec - decoking advice
FuryRebuild

posted on 3/3/12 at 08:35 AM Reply With Quote
Duratec - decoking advice

Morning Collective

I've got all the grubbins off my new (to me) engine and looking into the exhaust ports, there's lots of carbon in there.

What's your advice for decoking it? I am thinking of trying the parts washer, and if that doesn't work, maybe something like carb cleaner solvent.

Any ideas?

Mark

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
me!

posted on 3/3/12 at 08:48 AM Reply With Quote
Mr Muscle oven cleaner sorted my zetec pistons/head out a treat!
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
dave r

posted on 3/3/12 at 11:10 AM Reply With Quote
where i used to work, we used to use a non gritty hand cleaner soap

used to paint/soak it overnight and the carbon used to just wash off





I'd love to give my imaginary friend a great big hug,

but this jacket makes it impossible.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
mark chandler

posted on 3/3/12 at 01:41 PM Reply With Quote
Drain cleaner for me
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
DIY Si

posted on 3/3/12 at 01:44 PM Reply With Quote
Unless there's enough to block the ports up, and if there is the engines FUBAR'd anyway, why bother? The first time you run the engine it'll go black again. Fair enough if you really want to and have not much else on, but I wouldn't bother.





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 3/3/12 at 02:36 PM Reply With Quote
Interesting point, Si. I thought the carbon built up over time.

I thought a cleaner head meant more power. If I decide to put new cams in then i'll decoke it.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
pjay

posted on 3/3/12 at 07:49 PM Reply With Quote
Nitromors paint stripper - done quite a few heads now and it's good stuff (but nasty stuff - if you see what I mean).

Guess you're looking to do it with the head on - if so how do you plan to stop any crap getting into the cylinders? Not tried it but I guess you could turn the engine upside down...

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 3/3/12 at 09:06 PM Reply With Quote
hi pjay

I'm going to compression test it first, and then probably get the head off. My reasons are:
1) I think I'm going for stage 1 cams. With my jenveys and really free flowing exhaust, i should see 200 with the right management
2) The engine came from a scrapper with all the warranty that entails. I was assured it was a good one, but I will see when I test the compression. The front idler pulley has a knackered bearing so there may be wear in other places
3) i intend to run it on track days and fast road, so with sustained mullering, it may be prudent to change the cam chain.

I have a parts washer, so I'll be interested to see if a stint in it overnight does any good. If not, a day soaking in nitromors before going back into the parts washer will be the way.

So, to eliptically come to the point, i shouldn't end up flushing crap into the bores

Thanks for the tip

Mark

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
DIY Si

posted on 3/3/12 at 10:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
Interesting point, Si. I thought the carbon built up over time.

I thought a cleaner head meant more power. If I decide to put new cams in then i'll decoke it.


Whilst it does build up, the layer is going to be tiny. The cleanliness of the exhaust will make no difference to power, but if you're taking the head off, a light going off to smooth the ports out won't hurt any. The inlet however, should be fairly clean, but only because anything else points to problems!





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
pjay

posted on 4/3/12 at 08:56 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Mark - Sounds a good idea to get it running and do the CT first. As DIY Si says unless there's loads of build up its not a problem.

If and when you do take the head off you might consider lapping the valves in as well (the need depends on mileage - 16 valves and exhausts are the worst to lap in...).

Do you find you decide to one thing and it spirals into 101 other jobs...

Later if you do decide to replace the timing chain (know the thoughts and did mine on my first engine) you'll need to take the crank pulley off to get the timing chain cover off (reference to one of your other threads IIRC).

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
perksy

posted on 4/3/12 at 11:15 AM Reply With Quote
Used Fairy power spray and Mister muscle oven cleaner on the last one i did and it came up really well
(make sure its all washed off afterwards)


The Mrs said it was a shame i didn't pay as much attention to doing the washing up...

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 8/3/12 at 02:00 PM Reply With Quote
Persky

It's all off now, and the front cover has sat in the parts washer for a day to shift the top level grime.

I polished my cam cover with a nylon cup brush, which made it shiny and smooth, but there are a few pittted marks in there.

I think I may try some oven cleaner next - soak it in that for a while and then back in the parts washer - may make it nice and shiny.

I'm still doing other parts of the strip, but i reward myself with a clean and polish when i've done another good job (like getting the bloody front pulley off).

Cheers

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
batteredoldsupersport

posted on 8/3/12 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
One favourite for cleaning things up is a bucket of diesel overnight. It shifts most things. As ever, take the usual precautions in handling and don't bathe in the stuff.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 8/3/12 at 05:03 PM Reply With Quote
Just spoken to my father-in-law (retired chemistry teacher) and he recons drain-cleaner - it's a alkali and will get the crap in the pits of the cast out of the way and give me a shiny surface without having to go mad with the nylon brush to polish it.

we shall see - off to B&Q for drain cleaner.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
pjay

posted on 8/3/12 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds good - post some pics to show the results.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
batteredoldsupersport

posted on 8/3/12 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
Just watch the drain cleaner on ally. If it forms gas bubbles these are hydrogen gas and it's formed by the caustic solution attacking the ally. You don't want this, it will leave pits if given long enough.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
pjay

posted on 8/3/12 at 06:42 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by batteredoldsupersport
Just watch the drain cleaner on ally. If it forms gas bubbles these are hydrogen gas and it's formed by the caustic solution attacking the ally. You don't want this, it will leave pits if given long enough.


All aluminium engine so now doesn't sound quite so good. Does it just depend how long it's left on there?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
batteredoldsupersport

posted on 8/3/12 at 09:04 PM Reply With Quote
It does depend and also on the chemistry of the solution. You need to read the bumf, if it says keep it off ally then keep it off ally. Some caustics are passivated with silicates etc that are not corrosive to ally. some are evil bastards and should be kept off. The snag is that they act over time on carbon and lacquer, they also act over time on ally. You can tell though, make a solution and chuck the part in. If it starts to produce bubbles of gas, get it out and wash the caustic off. It won't do any harm over a few minutes IF you wash it off properly.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 8/3/12 at 11:24 PM Reply With Quote
It was all rather ignominious.

The sink cleaner just turned the surface black, no problem - nylon brush polished it out.
Kitchen surface cleaner got through the grime but couldn't get the tiny pitted marks out.
t-cut did some work (on a polishing disk on a dremmel) but not brilliant.
auto-glym wheel cleaner made a strong smell, then turned the surface black. polished it out.

then i thought: "buggrit" and put it in the blasting cabinet. All the little crevices are now nice and clean. Then i polished it with the cup brush.

Can you spot the deliberate mistake?

The back of the cam cover still have oil residue on it, so there is blasting grit stuck to it. hey-ho.

I've taken the baffle plate out, and am now running it again in the parts washer overnight on the underside to get most of the crap off, before cleaning by hand and inspecting VERY CAREFULLY before putting it on the engine.

Still, we live and learn.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
aquablastcenter

posted on 3/7/12 at 11:11 PM Reply With Quote
Aqua & Soda blasting for engine / gearbox

Aqua & Soda blasting for engine / gearbox

There are two safe and easy ways to clean / restore engine and gearbox parts.

1. Aqua Blasting with silicon bead
This will remove road dirt, corrosion and most staining from alloy.
All parts must have bearings, seals and moving parts removed.
Parts need degreasing and paint removing before blasting

2. Soda Blasting
A dry blast process that is ideal for removing oil deposits, paint and general road dirt
Parts can be cleaned without the need to dismantle, so from cylinder heads to
complete engines can be cleaned and prepared for painting.

Details can be found at http://www.aquablastcenter.com

PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 4/7/12 at 07:28 AM Reply With Quote
Dear Aquablastcentre

I've noticed you have brought multiple old threads to the surface in order to sell your services. I think noone here would really mind about that, but Chris (owner of the board) has some kind of registered trader policy.

I suggest you contact him and see what the policy is.





When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.

www.furyrebuild.co.uk

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
aquablastcenter

posted on 4/7/12 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
Will do and hopefully i can sort a discount out for members of the site
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
b14wrc

posted on 5/7/12 at 11:33 AM Reply With Quote
I'd stick it in the dish washer after you have used the drain cleaner, I have installed one in the garage for car parts and it works a treat!

Rob





20vt powered rear engined locost

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
FuryRebuild

posted on 5/7/12 at 11:50 AM Reply With Quote
I need to know if I could have it anodised as well. I know I'd need to protect the liners but I do wonder if the anodising process would cause harm or not.





When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.

www.furyrebuild.co.uk

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.