Graceland
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 posted on 6/9/04 at 05:18 PM |
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V8 to MT75
now i've seen this done before and cant remember where and searching prooves fruitless.
does anyone have any info on doing this? from what i believe, it is a very easy straight forward affair 
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white130d
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| posted on 6/9/04 at 05:54 PM |
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Does this help?
V8 Tuner
David.
"There's only 2 things that money can't buy, and that's true love and home grown tomatos" Guy Clark
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mackie
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| posted on 6/9/04 at 09:58 PM |
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We have an LT77 you can have for 1 million dollars 
I'm quite interested in this, keep us all posted since MT75s are pretty cheap and I'd imagine can happily take the grunt of the 3.5 (after
all it managed the 4x4 cossie and they were 220lbft+)
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TL
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| posted on 7/9/04 at 12:26 PM |
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I have done it this way:
Ingredients needed;
1 x RV8 bellhousing. Depending on your proposed clutch mechanism, it may not be too important what the bellhousing is from. In other words, you may
get away with an auto bellhousing. Mine was from a 4speed range rover. (I was lucky enough to be able to take measurements fron the box as well, which
is good for reference)
1 x RV8. Note that the SD1 uses a 9.5" or 10" clutch (I cant remember off hand), but the RR uses a 10.5" clutch, which in turn has a
larger flywheel. (thats why RR flywheels grow on trees but SD1 flywheels are RHS!). I am using a RR engine which I was given, but with an SD1 flywheel
& clutch. (For 3 reasons: 1- SD1 must surely be lighter than RR. 2-I'm not planning to be pulling tree-stumps out of the ground! 3- I figure
that it will need less operating effort (but this is only a guess))
1 x piece of aluminium plate about 1/2" thick, nice n' flat. same diameter as bellhousing
I also had the luxury of a milling machine and a big lathe.
Method:
1- Measure the axial dimensions (lengths) of RV8 flywheel friction face, end of crank and spigot bush bore, using block/bellhousing mating face a a
datum.
2- Do the same with MT75 1st motion shaft etc.
3- Draw a sketch using measured dimensions to layout where you want to cut&shut bellhousing. Check that MT75 1st motion shaft is correct length in
RV8 crank, and that friction plate will have full travel along splines.
4- Cut RR bellhousing (approx IIRC) 3" from front face. I used a hacksaw one night ; It only took about 1 hour. Mill the sawn face good n'
flat.
5- Strip the MT75 down to remove the bellhousing & front case.
6- Cut down the bellhousing according to you sketch. (I used disc cutter for this during the day .Again, mill dead flat & square.
7- Cut the plate to the inner & outer profiles of the ...........you know where this is going.
8- Tig weld the plate between the 2 other bits. I made up a very sturdy fixture to locate the bits squarely and concentricly.
9- If neccessary (which it probably will be due to distortion) mill the front mating face of the new assembly flat & squre flat .
10- Using a DTI check that you have got everything in the right place. If not, you're more or less buggered and will have to start again!
Points to note:
I plan to use a concentric slave cylinder (a la Saab 900?), so I didn't need to worry about release arms etc. Incidentally, can anyone tell me
if the concentric slave cylinder used on hydraulic mondeos etc can be used? Everyone seems to use the saab one, and it seems to me that the ford one
should be more compatible and maybe cheaper?
If you stick with the cable operated release arm, I don't think you will be able to route the cable properly past the (wider) RV8 bellhousing.
You may need to weld an extension to the arm.
I must also say that I am not yet up & running with this set-up, but I am happy with the alignment of the welded parts (after a small initial
adjustment. Also, you must check all your facts & figures; Don't trust me - I wouldn't
Good Luck
[Edited on 7/9/04 by TL] 
[Edited on 7/9/04 by TL]
Cheers,
Terry
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