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Author: Subject: leaky toilet - what's the best way to seal?
smart51

posted on 31/10/14 at 07:56 AM Reply With Quote
leaky toilet - what's the best way to seal?

Following on from the tiles thread, I've lifted the tiles in the bathroom and dried out the floor, only to find that the toilet leaks a bit when flushed. It is coming from the link between the porcelain and the soil stack. What is the best DIY way to reseal the join?
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macc man

posted on 31/10/14 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
The best way is to remove the pan and fit a new pan connector. Another way is to dry well and use a silicone sealer that will dry if it is still wet. Or get a plumber in.
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britishtrident

posted on 31/10/14 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
You need either a flexible connector or an offset boss connector on the waste pipe this allows for height of the tiles which is just enough to misalign the waste pipe and cause a leak. The joint should not need any sealer on a modern system.

On the fresh water side I use a braided flexible hose with a built in isolating valve as makes life easier if you have to do any future work.



[Edited on 31/10/14 by britishtrident]





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renetom

posted on 31/10/14 at 08:22 AM Reply With Quote
leak

There's only one way
fit a new pan connector
Cheap & easy to fit

Pan Connector 90 Degree WC Toilet Offset Boss Inlet Extension Flexi TRADE PRICES

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britishtrident

posted on 31/10/14 at 08:28 AM Reply With Quote
link to offset connector Screwfix





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nick205

posted on 31/10/14 at 08:51 AM Reply With Quote
As above, pull the pan out and fit a new connector. The connectors are push fit with finned rubber seals and don't need any sealant (in fact you're more likely to cause a leak by adding sealant). Make sure the porcelain and soil stack mating parts are clean and free from limescale etc.






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slingshot2000

posted on 31/10/14 at 09:09 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
As above, pull the pan out and fit a new connector. The connectors are push fit with finned rubber seals and don't need any sealant (in fact you're more likely to cause a leak by adding sealant). Make sure the porcelain and soil stack mating parts are clean and free from limescale etc.
and from old silicon from a previous bodge

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nick205

posted on 31/10/14 at 10:35 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by slingshot2000
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
As above, pull the pan out and fit a new connector. The connectors are push fit with finned rubber seals and don't need any sealant (in fact you're more likely to cause a leak by adding sealant). Make sure the porcelain and soil stack mating parts are clean and free from limescale etc.
and from old silicon from a previous bodge



You're not wrong

That's usually the bit that takes the longest is sorting the previous bodgers work before applying your own bodge






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cliftyhanger

posted on 31/10/14 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
And some fairy liquid/water to help the new pan connector slip on/in easily.
I too am a fan of flexi hoses, but avoid the cheapo ones. Make sure they are wras certified. Pan connectors too, buy branded, cheapo ones save a quick but are just not as good.

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Agriv8

posted on 31/10/14 at 12:42 PM Reply With Quote
My experience is that once the seal is broken/moved between loo and poo pipe getting it to re-seal properly is a problem as limescale has built up behind the seal, Re-seating loo to poo pipe without removing the built up limescale can damage the seal or make it so it will not seat properly (guess how I found out ) especially if the loo is now in a slightly different place.

Pair of rubber glove a scouring pad and some bleach all done. I refit with a run of vasalene around the seal.

Ps check after a few days that it still dry.

ATB Agriv8

PS not a plumber but its worked for me in the past





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smart51

posted on 31/10/14 at 09:56 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks everyone. All fixed now. Tomorrow's job is to replace the tiles.
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