Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Screed - diy or not
Simon

posted on 19/8/14 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
Screed - diy or not

Folks,

Need to screed the porch floor - approx. 2m x 2m.

Have never screeded before, so wondering if I can save a couple of quid and do it myself or is it something that really needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing.

Cheers

ATB

Simon






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
bi22le

posted on 19/8/14 at 08:42 PM Reply With Quote
I screeded my kitchen floor before tiling it. It was about 2.5M X 4M.

I found it quite easy. I did have a ridge that made the tiling a little hard but think I could do better second time round. My mistake was I had to mix up 2 loads. The first amount was perfect, really runny and fluid. The second amount was mixed in a rush and was a bit thicker. It all started to set a bit fast and I did not have time to finish it properly.

Dont worry about how it will set, make it nice and runny and you will be fine.





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Smoking Frog

posted on 19/8/14 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
What type of screed? I've used the floor levelling compound and had no problems. However I've seen some that had crazed.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Simon

posted on 19/8/14 at 09:26 PM Reply With Quote
Screed will be from what I've read on the net, being sharp sand/cement mixed between 1.3 and 1.45 iirc

ATB

Simon






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
JoelP

posted on 19/8/14 at 09:29 PM Reply With Quote
I pva the concrete first to stop it crazing. Remember its self smoothing, not self leveling.





Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
benchmark51

posted on 19/8/14 at 09:45 PM Reply With Quote
That is totally different to how mine was done by a professional screeder.

I had a concrete floor that needed screeding and was suprised to see how it was done.
The concrete floor was wetted and the screed was almost dry when applied. He found the levels
using string and a spirit level and formed piers making sure they were all level. Then the spaces
between the piers filled in and levelled with the piers using a long float in a sawing motion. He kept
doing this and worked his way to the door. As the screed sucked up the water previously applied,
it all became very smooth and shiny. I was amazed at how smooth and flat it was next day.

He used a small Belle concrete mixer and mixed as he went and the mix was virtually dry.
It came out brilliantly smooth and I've never had any problem with it.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Barkalarr
Contributor






Posts 941
Registered 14/3/12
Location Essex
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!
Building: Caterham R300, Caterham Roadsport,Indy R1,Indy Zet

posted on 19/8/14 at 10:01 PM Reply With Quote
When we had ours done (Approx 5 x 3m) the builders mixed "feathers" in with the almost dry mix. This was an extension to our kitchen - my only regret is that we only put wet underfloor heating in the new bit and not the existing because it would have made a right mess digging up the old screed - in hindsight I wish i had put it in the whole room because it's excellent on your feet (major novelty as we have only just had the building work done).

Personally, if you haven't got the right tools (like a chuffing-great long level) I'd get someone in to do it.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
SteveWalker

posted on 19/8/14 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
I did our conservatory floor, 5m x 3.2m. Sand blinding, DPM, insulation, wet underfloor heating, screed, diluted PVA to seal and then tiled. The info I got before doing it (and after three years, it's still fine and no tiles have lifted or cracked) was to use a pretty dry mix.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
bi22le

posted on 19/8/14 at 10:31 PM Reply With Quote
Strange that everybody has said it was almost dry.

I was worried my stuff would not dry it was so liquid!! I brought self leveling, self smoothing simples DIY stuff from Wickes I think.

I dont think I even prepared the floor more than a sweep with a broom.

I would not champion my self as master screeder so dont take my advice as gospal, just as my experience. I have had no troubles with it though.





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
cliftyhanger

posted on 20/8/14 at 05:58 AM Reply With Quote
screed is normally about 50mm thick, applied almost dry. I have had a few bits done over the years, looks easy but I get the feeling easy to cock up and then difficult to rectify......
The old chap I use wets the concrete first then sprinkles cement dust on and brushes it around. Old fashioned, but he swears by it.

If just self-levelling, rather easier, especially on a small area, and yes, pretty liquid. the latex versions seem better. dilute PVA or better SBA to seal first.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Slimy38

posted on 20/8/14 at 06:46 AM Reply With Quote
The one that was applied to our kitchen was a really runny one. But it was only about 2mm thick of a very plasticky quick drying liquid. This is in contrast to the garage surfacing which was an inch or so of what appeared to be a cement mix. Looking online they are both called 'screeding', but two very different techniques.

The runny one was just sloshed about until it found it's natural surface (and could have probably done by my ten year old daughter!), the drier thicker one required two blokes with beams levelling it out (and looked to be very similar to plastering in that they made it look easy but I bet it isn't).

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
motorcycle_mayhem

posted on 20/8/14 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
I believe folk here may be confusing cementacious screed with floor levelling compound, the latter is a latex-based polymeric self-levelling compound.

I've 'just' done the garage floor - 6 months ago, after removing the original shite, laying 6 inches of sub-base, 4 inches of concrete and then 2 inches of screed. It's not a professional job, I'm DIY, but with TIME on your side (as with all things) some care and attention makes up for everything.

A 2m square porch floor is definately DIY!

I used polythene strands in the screed mix (as you've been told, this is done very dry), which make it very tough and crack-free, but a smoothing nightmare. I did not know (of course) that the additive would cause such issues, but it did.
I'm 'sorting' it out now actually. One coat of floor paint, allow to dry and bed the 'hairs' down and then shave with a sharp blade scraper.
2nd paint coat went on this morning... looking good.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
rick1962uk

posted on 20/8/14 at 12:32 PM Reply With Quote
its not that bad to do i have done loads of floors in my building days the key is prep of the floor and get the mix right it needs to be like a crumble mix damp so when you squeeze it it holds together to wet it will drip water to dry it wont stick

paint the floor with pva / water mix

on the day your going to do it spray some water down to stop the screed drying out to quick

lay 2 lengths of wood down like train tracks this will be your level take time to get this 100% right

you will need a large plastic float and a lenth of wood to cut the screed a bit longet than the tracks these need to be about 12" from the wall

as you tip the screed level it and then pat it down hard with the base of the spade

then pull the screed back in a scissor like action

then every few feet polish it down with the float in a s type action

you will need to move the tracks and fill then in as you go

i use a 3:1 mix that i also add a waterproof agent to

THEN WHEN DONE LEAVE IT FOR 3-5 DAYS AT LEAST A WEEK WOULD BE BEST

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.