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How do you fit a type 9 gear lever position extension
sonic - 3/6/16 at 08:39 PM

Description
Description


Hello

Could some body give me some help on how to fit a gear lever extension to my 2006 MK Indy

I had a look tonight and I assume you have to remove the dust cap off the end of the gearbox, my problem is it looks like it still wont fit due to the chassis cross member as seen in the photograph.

Do I need to cut it out ?, and pictures or help would be appreciated

Thanks

[Edited on 3/6/16 by sonic]


baz-R - 4/6/16 at 08:28 AM

Core plug or cap needs to be removed


JMW - 4/6/16 at 08:45 AM

As said, core plug needs to be removed. But it does look like the cross member is in the wrong place. If you can give the distance to the front face of the cross member I could check. I'm presuming you don't actually have a gear lever extension to hand to offer up to check yourself?


anthony1 - 4/6/16 at 02:33 PM

My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.


Adamirish - 4/6/16 at 07:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by anthony1
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.


This is what I did too. Just for my own piece of mind I will weld a new brace further up the tunnel(towards the dash) at some point. I just haven't got round to it yet.

As for fitting, it takes 5 mins. Take out old gear lever, 12" 3/8 extension in through the top and hammer out the plug on the end of the box and throw it in the bin. I've left mine open and I know most, if not all people do.

Remember to take the the saddle off the gear stick and put it on the extension too.


sonic - 4/6/16 at 07:52 PM

Thanks for the replies guys

You have confirmed what I though about removing the cross brace, it just nice to have a second opinion before cutting it. I will reweld it further down just for piece of mind.

Thank you


sonic - 9/6/16 at 08:28 PM

Hello guys

I have fitted the gear lever extension tonight as said above, the only problem I have is that it seems to go into reverse very easy.

I can get all of the gears but when selecting first it doesn't take much to select reverse instead, in actual fact its harder to select fifth.

Have I done something wrong?, I knocked out the metal piece at the side of the stick in the gearbox, removed the plastic saddle on the end of the gearstick and refitted to the extension end although I am not sure I got this the right way round.

Any help would be appreciated


Mash - 9/6/16 at 08:53 PM

Did you have the "easy reverse" problem with the box before?

May sound like a stupid question, but mine doesn't have an extension, and I selected reverse by mistake twice last time I drove it (Tuesday)


Adamirish - 9/6/16 at 09:42 PM

Not a problem I have had to be honest. Sometimes it baulks going into reverse but with the detent it's virtually impossible to get reverse instead of first. Unless you are pushing the lever down at the time.

I have however selected 1st instead of 3rd a couple of times but that's just my kack driving!


sonic - 10/6/16 at 04:35 PM

No didn't have the problem before and it still selects all the gears ok but between 1st and reverse seems to easy, as said there is more resistance going into 5th.

on the plastic saddle that sits over the shaft which way should the flat side sit? towards the driver or passenger


Andy D - 10/6/16 at 06:15 PM

You could try shimming it with washers so it sits higher on the box? There's a reverse lock gizmo that you should need to overcome by pushing down on the stick? It could be missing it? ..hard to explain.


Adamirish - 10/6/16 at 06:21 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Andy D
There's a reverse lock gizmo that you should need to overcome by pushing down on the stick? It could be missing it? ..hard to explain.


That's the detent. It's a block on the RH side(iirc) underneath the extension which matches a notch on the lever. This means you HAVE to push the lever down past the block to select reverse. The only thing I can think of to get past that is if the spring is missing off the lever.

As for the saddle, I can't remember which way round it goes off the top of my head. I would take mine off and have a look but that means taking the seats out which is a ball ache!


Andy D - 10/6/16 at 07:15 PM

Btw, I didn't mean the actual detent was missing.. I meant the extension was not correctly positioned so it works as a stop to prevent reverse being selected inadvertently.
I had to put a couple of washers between the extension and gearbox, on each of the three bolts on mine for this very reason.


sonic - 10/6/16 at 07:53 PM

Hi

I knocked the detent out as suggested in the gearbox, the extension sitting to low could be the answer as I don't have to push the lever down to select reverse just push it left.

When the gear stick was in the gearbox originally it had an alloy spacer about 6mm thick between the flange and top of the box which I refitted to the gearstick at the extension end.

I will try a couple of washers tomorrow to see if it cures it.

Thanks
Guys


alfas - 11/6/16 at 04:59 AM

quote:
Originally posted by anthony1
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.


so why its welded by the manufactuere when it can be removed?

if a customer is phoning me i would also confirm anything what he prefers to hear.


Adamirish - 11/6/16 at 12:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by alfas
quote:
Originally posted by anthony1
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.


so why its welded by the manufactuere when it can be removed?

if a customer is phoning me i would also confirm anything what he prefers to hear.


What's the point in just telling a customer what they want to hear? Surely that's bad practise by yourself? That's a brave thing to say on an Internet forum. If any of your customers read this, I'm sure they won't be very happy.

A small manufacturer such as MK sportscars I'm sure would have told the truth. If they thought it's a big no no, they would have said as such. Adding to the fact a lot of people have done the same with no ill effects including myself. 12 months now of fairly hard driving on bumpy roads, my car hasn't fallen apart, snapped, killed anyone etc.


sonic - 11/6/16 at 07:04 PM

Hi Guys

I fitted some extra washers under the spacer at gear lever mount and it seams to have cured the problem I had, I now have to push the lever down and across to get reverse rather than just across.

Thank you for the tip Andy D and advise everybody

my next post is to see how everybody has trimmed to tunnel, as the lever is now further back and the base sits higher above the frame I would like some ideas

Thanks agin


Adamirish - 11/6/16 at 08:18 PM

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

I trimmed the whole top of the tunnel with neoprene. The old hole is still there but covered. I've got stacks of it if you want any.

Looks quite tidy in person. I would have used carbon fibre if it wasn't so expensive!


sonic - 11/6/16 at 08:55 PM

Hopefully this picture works but as you can see it sits above the frame and really near where the frame starts to bend upwards making it harder to fit a gear stick surround

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tul214 - 11/6/16 at 10:30 PM

Use a CV joint rubber boot?


Andy D - 12/6/16 at 06:09 AM

That alloy spacer under the gear lever must be some sort of quick shift conversion? If you wanted to get rid of it, just fit a standard gear lever, and it'll sit lower, perhaps flush with the top of the tunnel?


emwmarine - 12/6/16 at 05:29 PM

I've just had one of the ebay extensions delivered. However I get get it to fit.

The yolk that mimics the original gearlever yolk is just too long to fit into the selector shaft where the gearlever would normally fit. The type 9 gearlever yolk is around 10mm ish and the yolk on the extension is a good 5mm longer.


Having cut it down it still doesn't fit properly. each of the prongs on the yolk look slightly too wide.


emwmarine - 12/6/16 at 06:24 PM

What a fool am I.
Went out again to the garage with my glasses on and realised I hadn't pulled out the little plastic saddle.....

Now i've got a bit of extra vertical movement in the gear lever....