LocostBuilders - powered by XMB

Using old Lifters on camshaft

bikecarbfred - 20/9/17 at 06:48 PM

I am doing a re-build with new pistons etc.

However I do not want to install my new mild camshafts with new lifters as I want to run the engine in with the old cams.

I want to do this so I can run in the new pistons and make sure there is proper oil lubrication around the head.

My question is, is it okay to use my old camshafts and re-use the old lifers in any order for a few thousand miles.

I am going to chuck away the old cams anyway.

Apart from maybe damaging the old cam is this okay to do? I don' want to install the new cams and find out there was a oil gallery blocked and destroy Ł700 quids worth of gear.

steve m - 20/9/17 at 07:16 PM

Its supposed to be a very very bad practice to swop items about like that, but ive done it!

Infact the 285 cam in my crossflow is not using the followers it came with, as there in a different engine

what I would suggest is a good dose of cam lube to soften the bedding in process

steve

jacko - 20/9/17 at 07:28 PM

quote:
Originally posted by bikecarbfred
I am doing a re-build with new pistons etc.

However I do not want to install my new mild camshafts with new lifters as I want to run the engine in with the old cams.

I want to do this so I can run in the new pistons and make sure there is proper oil lubrication around the head.

My question is, is it okay to use my old camshafts and re-use the old lifers in any order for a few thousand miles.

I am going to chuck away the old cams anyway.

Apart from maybe damaging the old cam is this okay to do? I don' want to install the new cams and find out there was a oil gallery blocked and destroy Ł700 quids worth of gear.

why would there be a gallery blocked on a new cam if it was me a blow all oil ways though with a air line
new cams want to be run in at high revs
jacko

britishtrident - 20/9/17 at 07:37 PM

The normal practice is to scuff the rubbing surface cross-hatch with wet & dry so it retains an oil film when running in.

snapper - 20/9/17 at 08:18 PM

If you are using old cam and old lifters just to bed in the engine I don't see a problem.
You are bedding in the rings not the Pistons and you can do that effectively in a matter of hours not days.
Dave Baker of Puma Racing has a great article on running piston rings in, search for it and you should find it, I have similar information if you want to message me

Dick - 21/9/17 at 08:27 AM

So from what im reading you have rebuilt an engine using new or serviceable parts and you want to fit a used cam and un matched follows to it so you can run it in and check oil flow to the heads.
So why dont you just fit the new cam and followers and check the oil flow to the head if the oil ways are clear and clean and the engine is assembled correctly you should have no problems.
The other side is your not worried about damaging the old cam and followers? this is not the way to go you have just spent time and money on a rebuild and the material that wears of the cam and followers going into the system is something you dont want , these partials will travel pre filter so first thing in the line is the oil pump.
just saying not wishing to offend

MikeRJ - 21/9/17 at 09:03 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Dick
So from what im reading you have rebuilt an engine using new or serviceable parts and you want to fit a used cam and un matched follows to it so you can run it in and check oil flow to the heads.
So why dont you just fit the new cam and followers and check the oil flow to the head if the oil ways are clear and clean and the engine is assembled correctly you should have no problems.

Totally agree, this seems like an real waste of effort to me. Just make sure it's rebuilt correctly to start with and install the new cams and followers.

bikecarbfred - 21/9/17 at 09:23 AM

Well. there was one other thing.

I am going from 1.4 to 1.6 so it will offset the ignition timing slightly.

Bogg brothers said just take it easy and get the car to them and they would time it up.

I thought adding a mild road cam to the setup might affect the timing even more.

Plus it says to run the NEW cams in - you keep the revs held for first 20 minutes 2500 rpm

But then to run the engine in it says do not keep revs held constant.

How can you do both at the same time.

Dick - 21/9/17 at 09:36 AM

When you build it use lots of build lube it wants to be dripping , the cam lobes can run dry until oil is being splashed about the engine. The time from new build to oil laying all over the place can be quiet long so you need to get oil running over the faces of the follows. Thats why they say rev it up and not let it tick over.
Back the timing back a bit if you can but dont go to far
We use about 1/2 a bottle for every cam we install never had one fail. best we have found is Torco mpz

[Edited on 21/9/17 by Dick]

bikecarbfred - 21/9/17 at 03:17 PM

quote:
Originally posted by bikecarbfred

Plus it says to run the NEW cams in - you keep the revs held for first 20 minutes 2500 rpm

But then to run the engine in it says do not keep revs held constant.

How can you do both at the same time.

Sorry to qoute my self but isn;t it a wise decision to run the pistons/rings in as soon as the engine is started and drive
Varying revs.

And then install the cams after and break them in when stationary 20 minutes at a constant rpm.

[Edited on 21/9/17 by bikecarbfred]

[Edited on 21/9/17 by bikecarbfred]

flak monkey - 22/9/17 at 05:42 AM

Having built a lot of engines....

Build it right first time. If you can't set ignition timing yourself, then to be honest, you shouldn't be considering building engines...

Initial start up is critical and the first thing you do is bed in the cam (assuming you don't have roller lifters). Get it started and raise the RPM tp 2000-2500 and vary slightly between the 2 for 20 minutes. This beds the cam to the followers. The reason is that stress on the followers is reduced at higher RPM. Keep an eye on temperature and if it'd getting too hot shut it down and allow to cool then resume.

After the initial cam break in, drain the oil, check for excessive metal contamination. Refill and then commence your normal break in procedure of driving. Personally I go for the drive it like you stole it break in method.

bikecarbfred - 22/9/17 at 05:58 AM

Thank you for your advice. I was told by boggs to leave the 1.4 ignition map but a few have said just relax it abit. which makes sense.
I do have the laptop and software for mega jolt and I also have the knock-sense detector with bosch sensor and also aem afr gauge.

This is my current map which was being used for the 1.4 - carb setup using 1.50mm jets. It has always been running slightly rich so i was told it would fit in well with the increase stroke.

p.s rev limit is set to 6500rpm

mark chandler - 22/9/17 at 01:48 PM

Medium RPM for 20 minutes here as well then drive it hard, after 1/2 hour of building up to full power, snapping on the throttle for a few seconds then off for a few seconds at various RPMs snaps the rings out then throttle off allows the oil up to lubricate. - hey drive it like you stole it then