Prior to getting an ECU could I just plug in a solenoid and tie clip it somewhere to make the ECU think it is working, or is more complicated than
that?
whatever happens I will post back here later with confirmation of whatever happens. After a year of trying I have just managed to lose the SRS
warning light from changing the seats. The typical resistor trick does not work on MK1 /MK1.5 Focus but I got there in the end with a capacitor. No
more yellow lights are welcome.
I failed to mention earlier that my ST170 is not standard. The good guys at CTM Dagenham rebuilt the engine with a stage 2 head amongst other things
but I am yet to see what she can do due to the VVT issue.
Thanks for the help guys! I managed to get them on without too much grief and she is now nice and smooth with a nice poke starting at around 3.5k
rather than waiting for 5k for things to happen. Loss at top end a tad but if I put the foot down hard it compensates thanks to the stage 2 head.
Where to go from here? Can I advance more for starters or is it time for the aftermarket ECU?
A quick tech question please. When I am a tad confused when folk talk abuot 40 degrees at the crank being 20 degrees at the dial. The ST170 is
described as going to 60 degrees advance from 4-5k rpm which I assume is cam degrees? Am I right in thinking to achieve 60 degrees advance I turn the
pulley to dial setting 30 degrees?
Things are not going well. The inlet pulley is wiggling and trying to push the belt off. Everything is bolted up fine ? Has anyone had this problem
before? I am wondering if it is a faulty pulley.
Btw I still sent ahead with tuning and found the best spot to be 34 deg advanced on the dial. Does this tally with anyone else findings?
I know it’s an old thread but a big thumbs up to silky16v for posting the dimensions for the Vvt delete spacer. I’ve enjoyed a mooch around the
garage this afternoon
quote:Originally posted by big_wasa
I know it’s an old thread but a big thumbs up to silky16v for posting the dimensions for the Vvt delete spacer. I’ve enjoyed a mooch around the
garage this afternoon
Now, you have a reputation for using OEM management... so whats the plan here?? I am wondering about locking the VVT on an st170, I have a weber
ignition-only ecu from a blacktop (should be about right) but und=sure what induction to use. Could just get an aftermarket ECU, or go carb/s?
Ideas in my head while I am going stir crazy....
Long Story.
I needed some thing to take my mind of stuff and I didn’t want work on car so l just decided to have a crack.
Run out on the Oem pulley at the out side tip is 0.15mm mine is showing 0.34mm so it’s not perfect. Ie it wobbles 0.17mm out of true at the edge of
the pulley. But it probably won’t ever get used. I just wanted to see how tight I could get the tolerance. My lathe is fairly worn but I think I can
get it closer with more carful indexing the bar stock.
But I’ve just about finished my Zetec turbo on Oem management
Ah, I was wondering if you had a clever idea about std ecu on an ST engine.
Guess it isn't clever enough to cope with a change of injectors, or indeed to use the blacktop injectors but the ST will just produce more power
anyway.
All stuff in my head, again as a bit of a distraction from other stuff.
To use the blacktop ECU on the st you would have to modify the exhaust cam phase trigger. It's more like a trigger wheel than the Blacktops
single lobe.
