laptoprob
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 07:41 PM |
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Fully synthetic in TranX type 9...again!
Hi there,
been trawling the various forums and also here too and need a little advice please.
I have had my TranX Type 9 running with Millers NT oil for around 2-3 years with not one problem at all. Ive just swapped the engine into my Westy
recently and drained the old oil and put in some new...
MILLERS
I'm not 100% sure its exactly what i bought years ago but looking at the spec it seems to tick the right boxes. The problem i have is that on
the past 2 track days at Blyton once the car had been round a few laps and took a hammering the box started to be a pig to get into 3rd and
4th(didn't use 5th) and towards the end of the day 2nd along with a little crunching at times. My initial thoughts were that my Helix paddle
clutch has come to the end of its life but i had no slipping at all in any gear (maybe thats normal on these?). But then someone said "what oil
did you put in the box?".....brain is now putting 2+2 together and getting 5 as i know that the type 9 crunches and behaves oddly when it
doesn't have the right stuff in there from what i read.
So dilemma is do i drain the box and add something like Redline Semi or drop the whole lot again and change the clutch?
Any help will be greatly appreciated indeed 
[Edited on 15/3/15 by laptoprob]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajlF4nWJtGA
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Dick
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 08:49 PM |
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We use a 75/90 semi in ours never had a problem, from what you are saying in your post would say try the oil as dont sound like the clutch to me
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Brian R
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| posted on 15/3/15 at 10:16 PM |
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I worked in a Ford dealership when the type 9 was introduced, 1986 ish at a guess?
We had loads of complaints of crunching and baulking and I remember we had a spell of changing the oil for genuine Ford stuff in a lot of cars.
Can't remember the grade and no doubt it isn't available any more.
I seem to remember having to fill just below the filler bung rather than level with it too.
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baz-R
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 11:15 AM |
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Type9's like either a 75/90 gl4 semi synthetic gearbox oil or the proper ford red type9 oil (not mt75 Stuff)
Comma 75/90 semi synthetic gl4 was what a professional box modifier recommended me to use.
I could not find any so used a valvoline semi synthetic gl5 of the same grade with no issues in my self reconditioned type9.
Thicker oils are a no no as there's been issues with it effecting the synchro effect of the bulk rings.
[Edited on 16/3/15 by baz-R]
[Edited on 16/3/15 by baz-R]
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mcerd1
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 02:05 PM |
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Its not the synthetic bit that's the problem but the additives in GL5 oil (inc ones that say GL4 & GL5)
They eat the brass parts inside type 9's 
And most modern gear oil is made to GL5 specs....
The comma GL4 is what you want or something to the same spec - a basic old fashioned oil, but exactly what the type 9 needs (as recommended by BGH
among others)
But defiantly not anything that says GL5 on it!
[Edited on 16/3/2015 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 16/3/2015 by mcerd1]
-
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 03:02 PM |
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GL4 semi synthetic in a type 9.
In recent years I have used Comma and its been fine.
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Nitrogeno25
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 03:46 PM |
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I've been using fully synthetic gearbox oil in my type 9.
10K miles and many track days without problems. Maybe is not the recommended but it's the only one I could get with the correct
specifications.
Liqui moly SAE 75W90, Ford ESD M2C 175-A compliant.
Cheers
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froggy
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 03:55 PM |
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Was I talking to you about this at blyton ? I'm currently using millers nano mt 75/90 crx and I was seeing 100+ c temps after a 15 min session
, I'm going to use the redline mt 90 when I add the cooler . Does it ever have any issues on the road selecting gears ?
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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baz-R
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 10:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
Its not the synthetic bit that's the problem but the additives in GL5 oil (inc ones that say GL4 & GL5)
They eat the brass parts inside type 9's
And most modern gear oil is made to GL5 specs....
The comma GL4 is what you want or something to the same spec - a basic old fashioned oil, but exactly what the type 9 needs (as recommended by BGH
among others)
But defiantly not anything that says GL5 on it!
[Edited on 16/3/2015 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 16/3/2015 by mcerd1]
The valvoline stuff is used was GL4&5
I was told that almost all gl4 and 5 have the EP additives that are supposed to be bad for yellow metals inside the gearbox.
It was also put that most gearboxes have these metals in them.
What is should avoid is hypoid and EP grades of gear oil for final drives .
Five or six oil manufacturers listed gl5 oil's?
Also a gearbox reconditioner who supplied my gaskets and bearings said that any correct viscosity gear oil will be fine and said "type9 boxes
are very common back in the day" we never had any issues
All a bit confusing
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/3/15 at 10:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by baz-R
quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
Its not the synthetic bit that's the problem but the additives in GL5 oil (inc ones that say GL4 & GL5)
They eat the brass parts inside type 9's
And most modern gear oil is made to GL5 specs....
The comma GL4 is what you want or something to the same spec - a basic old fashioned oil, but exactly what the type 9 needs (as recommended by BGH
among others)
But defiantly not anything that says GL5 on it!
[Edited on 16/3/2015 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 16/3/2015 by mcerd1]
The valvoline stuff is used was GL4&5
I was told that almost all gl4 and 5 have the EP additives that are supposed to be bad for yellow metals inside the gearbox.
It was also put that most gearboxes have these metals in them.
What is should avoid is hypoid and EP grades of gear oil for final drives .
Five or six oil manufacturers listed gl5 oil's?
Also a gearbox reconditioner who supplied my gaskets and bearings said that any correct viscosity gear oil will be fine and said "type9 boxes
are very common back in the day" we never had any issues
All a bit confusing
All GL5 oils meet GL4. But GL5 oils are not suitable to replace GL4 oils in gearboxes as the high concentrations of aditives destroy the bronze
parts.
You require a gear oil that is GL4 not GL5/GL4. If the correct oil is not available for minor top ups (not refills) then use 10w/40 or 5w/40 engine
oil.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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laptoprob
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| posted on 17/3/15 at 07:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by froggy
Was I talking to you about this at blyton ? I'm currently using millers nano mt 75/90 crx and I was seeing 100+ c temps after a 15 min session
, I'm going to use the redline mt 90 when I add the cooler . Does it ever have any issues on the road selecting gears ?
Yes Froggy you were indeed. Im using the same oil which ive just confirmed with Millers is the exact same spec ive had in for 3 years previous with no
issues so i'm not dropping the oil yet as i think the clutch is at fault here....out comes the engine again
Thanks for the replies people.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajlF4nWJtGA
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Oddified
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| posted on 17/3/15 at 09:04 AM |
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I have a tranx straight cut type 9 in my car, i use Lucas 75/90 synthetic mixed with the Lucas heavy duty 85/140 oil. Keeps the box reasonably quiet
for a straight cut, runs cool and the gearbox has been in for around 8 years without any problems what so ever (touch wood!! lol). I've also
drilled/tapped for an oil drain plug and i change the oil every 2 years or so.
May not fall in line with the normal advice but it works for me 
Ian
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