britishtrident
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 09:14 AM |
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Rover PRT Thermostat ---
Official info on Rover PRT thermostat, external thermostat opens on temperature and flow pressure, available in different temperature ratings.
Photo of fittment to Rover 75 1.8 below, Freelander kit info in post that follows.
[Edited on 25/5/08 by britishtrident]
 
Rescued attachment rover2.JPG
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 09:16 AM |
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Freelander Service Bulletin with illustrations and part numbers
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 09:17 AM |
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Thats good enough for Rover , tie it on with a cable tie.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 09:24 AM |
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Inlet Manifold Gasket leak service bulletin
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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nitram38
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 09:49 AM |
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I think that this pvt valve is really a bodge from rover (a cheap get around) instead of solving their thermostat location.
It is designed to let through water that is cold, but at high pressure, such as reving the engine when cold.
The one thing rover never addressed is the location of the stat. It is still in the return from the radiator. This means that you can still get an
oscillation of temperature.
When I drove my F1-2 on cold days (with a proper capilary gauge) the temp shot up and down because of cold water from the rad hitting the stat,
closing it etc.
A cold slug of water can't be healthy hitting a hot aluminium block/head!
I removed the return stat from the back of the engine and put it in the top hose (where rover should have put it)
Now I get nice smooth temperature transition without the oscillation.
If I built any more cars with K-series engines, the top hose stat mod would be the first on my list.
 
remote thermostat
 
Description
 
Description
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02GF74
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 09:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Thats good enough for Rover , tie it on with a cable tie.
my volvo 850 also uses at least one cable tie - think it is to hold the dispstick tube in place.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 05:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
I think that this pvt valve is really a bodge from rover (a cheap get around) instead of solving their thermostat location.
It is designed to let through water that is cold, but at high pressure, such as reving the engine when cold.
The one thing rover never addressed is the location of the stat. It is still in the return from the radiator. This means that you can still get an
oscillation of temperature.
When I drove my F1-2 on cold days (with a proper capilary gauge) the temp shot up and down because of cold water from the rad hitting the stat,
closing it etc.
A cold slug of water can't be healthy hitting a hot aluminium block/head!
I removed the return stat from the back of the engine and put it in the top hose (where rover should have put it)
Now I get nice smooth temperature transition without the oscillation.
If I built any more cars with K-series engines, the top hose stat mod would be the first on my list.
remote thermostat
Description
Description
What else do you expect ? as I told you several months ago you are running without a by-pass hose your home brewed thetrmosta arangment
won't work properly. eAlthough by-pass hole I assume you I drilled in the bleed holes I sugested in the thermostat valve plate which will allow
the thermostat to see enough hot coolant to open it isn't the same as a by-pass connection.
The function of by-pass hose is to keep the engine running a more even temperature both interms of tempersature gradient through the block and head
and in terms of temperature oscillations due to the thermostat opening and closing.
[Edited on 25/5/08 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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nitram38
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 05:17 PM |
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Did you actually read what I wrote?
My thermostat set up works perfectly!
The temperature oscillation was with the standard thermostat position.
2000 miles and not one cooling problem in all kinds of weather and road conditions.
The engine warms up and runs at about 96-98 degrees unless it is in traffic or just come off the motorway. In which case it rises to 102 degrees,
where the fans cut in and drop it back to 98. (as per the rover manual).
Getting on your high horse again or should that be high hose?
You also forgot about the expansion bottle and bleed hoses that circulate water from the head and back to the bottom rad hose.
I have used a laser thermometer and you can see when it opens. I have also used the thermometer to check the pipework, head and block as it warms
up.
Just proves that you don't know everything.
Just so you can see it for yourself, here is a photo of the stat with the "bypass" hole in it:
 
Therm1
[Edited on 25/5/2008 by nitram38]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 07:00 PM |
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Apparently everything worked perfectly on your car from day one --
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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nitram38
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| posted on 25/5/08 at 07:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Apparently everything worked perfectly on your car from day one --
I would say 98% of it did, but the 2% that didn't work straight away has been sorted.
It just seems that you like to show everyone how clever you are by putting them down for trying.
My stat was based on the QED design, which was a cure for their cooling problems. The only difference is that instead of opting for an external bleed
pipe I drilled a hole in the stat.
Boy, lately there are a few people on this forum that all they can do is put others efforts down.
Maybe I should not contribute my findings to this forum and let yourself become the bible for car builders?
[Edited on 25/5/2008 by nitram38]
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