Pigsy
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 11:42 AM |
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Thanks very much.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 05:38 PM |
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So,
Crank pick up.
Cam pick up.
Engine coolant sensor.
Coil.
Vvt solenoid.
Maf.
Imrc.
Pre and post O2
Fuel pump control modual.
Pats.
Obd2.
Barametric sensor.
[Edited on 21/6/18 by big_wasa]
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 05:41 PM |
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Hi Big Wasa,
I'm in the process of wiring up my st170 engine. I've basically cut all of the required connectors off the loom and I'm connecting
them all back up individually. I have all ecu connections wired up and am waiting for delivery of my relays / fuse box to crack on with that.
I'm not sure if the oil temp/pressure sensor is required to run the engine. This only has 1 wire and I can't see that it connects to the
ecu. Any advice on this is appreciated!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 05:52 PM |
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There are no sensors. The oil pod is driven by the ecu and is just a gimmick.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 06:02 PM |
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If you use the dash in your build the pod has an illuminesant back light driver in it.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 09:17 PM |
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Thanks for that. There are a few things I need and this list is a great help.Thanks Mate.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 09:24 PM |
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Great thanks. I'm not using the focus dash so I can just forget about it.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/6/18 at 05:27 AM |
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Yes just forget about the dash.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 22/6/18 at 11:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Yes just forget about the dash.
Just to confirm, this is the plug next to the oil filter that I am referring to. So I don't need to connect this up to anything???
Thanks.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 22/6/18 at 11:27 AM |
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That's you're low oil pressure warning light.
Standard ford .
It does not sense pressure or temperature for the st oil pod. That connects to what ever dash or warning lights that your using and warns you of low
oil pressure but if it comes on while driving its probably to late any way.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 22/6/18 at 06:19 PM |
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Great, Thanks!
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Pigsy
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| posted on 23/6/18 at 05:03 PM |
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Big Wasa, are you aware of any programs that will enable me to go into the standard st170 ecu that will enable me to change the crankshaft sensors
angle? I don’t want to disassemble the engine box setup fitted to the car. It’s in an MGB GT and space is VERY tight. Has an RX8 box. I cannot just
drop the box from the engine due to MGB engineering’s cross braces. Thanks mate.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 23/6/18 at 05:40 PM |
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As per your other post, I don’t think it can be done. Up until not long ago you couldn’t do anything diy to these ecu’s. You can look at a project
called Forscan. There was other projects in America where these are used much more than here but you will need good computer programmer and
microelectronic knowledge. I tried but it’s way way over my head.
A stock flywheel can not be out, so how have you set up the trigger ?
Cheers
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Pigsy
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| posted on 25/6/18 at 06:16 AM |
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No it cant, but the stock 36-1 wheel can be out on the flywheel. I have a new wheel setup on the front crank pulley. where I fitted the rx8 box, I had
to swap the starter over to the right hand side of the engine. I can physically see the reluctor wheel and just counted its teeth as I rotated it. Its
an unusual reluctor shape.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 26/6/18 at 12:24 PM |
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I have a2003 st170 loom that I bought on ebay. Its in 3 sections. One is the relatively short one that contains all the engine sensors and ecu.There
is a tail near the ecu that has a plug that fits the fuel pump controller and then goes on to what could be the fuel pump plug It has an approx
2.5" or 6cm grommet attached. Can anyone confirm if this is the same tail used for the regulator and pump? If not, how do I find out where they
attach? As Ive not physically striped loom from a car I just don't know. Thanks
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/6/18 at 02:24 PM |
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Yep it’s the fuel pump driver then the fuel pump / sender plug.
Easy way to tell is by the wire colours as I’ve listed the ecu end or you can use a multi meter to do th3 same.
Cheers
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Pigsy
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| posted on 26/6/18 at 05:27 PM |
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Once again, you are great at help. Thanks very much.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 28/6/18 at 10:55 PM |
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O2 sensors
Hi, how many o2 {lambda} sensors will I need to run on the st 170 engine? I have NO cat, so are both needed? You mention these on the ECU:
35 white/red— HSO2 1 pin 4.
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 heater control.
100 black/blue – HO2S 2 pin 2.
Do they both have the same wiring? What are the loom colours pre and post cat please?
I have seen this sensor on ebay for the ST170:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lambda-Oxygen-O2-Sensor-FIT-Ford-Focus-KA-MK5-MK4-1-4-1-6-1-8-2-0-98AB-9G444-BB/173014939571?fits=Cars+Year%3A2002%7CCars+T
ype%3AST170&epid=2235969017&hash=item28487e77b3:g:ONAAAOSwC81as17B#vi-ilComp
As with all the searches I have done, no mention pre and post cat sensors.
I already have 2 sensors that were supposed to be pre and post cat, but are absolutely identical in every way including manufacturers numbers. Me
thinks someone is having a laugh at my expense!
I just cannot find a diagram that shows which of their 4 wires: 2 whites, a black and a grey match the ST170 o2 wire colours, or I have and do not
realise it.
In one of your videos they are both just hanging over the exhaust ports. Is that all thats needed? Just about a foot apart in the exhaust
down-pipe?
Sorry to be a total pain in the butt, but I'm close now and have spent a lot of time on it, working into to the early hours. What you have
posted has been tremendously helpful.
I only have the IMRC to arrive and fit, the pump to wire in, the loom to thin out, the 36-1 front wheel sensor to test and the ECU to fit into the car
cabin.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 29/6/18 at 05:36 PM |
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Pre cat is the green plug and post cat is blue. Yes you need both unless you get the second mapped out. If not and you have no car then you will need
a cheat device. There are plug diagrams that show wire colours.
Aftermarket are often universal.
No they won’t work in free air, that was just for a quick start up.
Cheers
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Pigsy
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| posted on 29/6/18 at 11:04 PM |
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Thanks. Ive almost wired in the IMRC that arrived today. Must the cable end be connected? I have bike throttle bodies. Was it used to reduce air flow
into the inlet manifold when the flap was closed? A sort of choke?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 30/6/18 at 08:09 AM |
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It needs to pull somthing or it will log a code and peg it back. Make a spring so it pulls that.
It’s a dual stage inlet manifold not a chock. So it makes the runner length longer for more torque and shorter for more revs.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 30/6/18 at 08:40 PM |
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Aaaah. I see. It has a spring built into the main body, but I will add one in. It’s very interesting.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 30/6/18 at 08:53 PM |
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Yes its sping loaded, just replicate it. So the ecu thinks it knows if the manifold is long or short.
From memory its short at idle, long in the midrange going short again at the top.
You need to use the st injectors not the bike ones.
[Edited on 30/6/18 by big_wasa]
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Pigsy
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| posted on 1/7/18 at 10:44 AM |
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Im already using st injectors and have just fitted a bracket and spring to the imrc for when it pulls the cable. What about the intake manifold tuning
valve and the imrc solenoid? Solenoid I can just fit. Is the imtv necessary?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 1/7/18 at 01:27 PM |
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Imtv solenoid ?
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