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Author: Subject: Haynes Roadster Turbo MX5 engine project
big_wasa

posted on 28/7/18 at 01:31 PM Reply With Quote
Hmm thatís a lot more cash.
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Charlie C

posted on 28/7/18 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
Working on fitting the radiator and intercooler there is minimal over lap about 15mm altogether.
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Charlie C

posted on 13/8/18 at 09:28 AM Reply With Quote
Starting to put new bits on the car, the body work should be with me by the me by the end of August.

I didnít have a lot of time this weekend but a managed to fit the new injectors to the inlet manifold, Iíve been recommended Injector Dynamics ID1050X I believe these are Bosch injectors or associated with Bosch. The only problem Iíve found so far is the sockets are at the bottom of the injector instead of the top its an easy fix Iíve rotated the injector around so the socket is pointing to the side.



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Charlie C

posted on 20/8/18 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
I fitted the throttle body and manifold this weekend.
Iíve blanked off the ERG and ICV firstly because these are areas where boost leak occurs and secondly because Iím not running aircon or power steering I wont have a huge change in engine load at idle and I can control it with the air bleed screw or the throttle stop adjuster.
The blanking plate came from https://davefab.com/.




I also bought the COPs from https://www.skuzzle.com/ I was a little disappointed to find that the COP arenít denso parts for some reason I got it into my head that they should have been for the price, to be fair it doesnít say on the advert that they are denso. Also the COPs donít fit out of the box they need two plastic rings removing off the shaft.

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Charlie C

posted on 10/9/18 at 08:08 AM Reply With Quote
Iíve been making steady progress Iíve had a few problems fitting the exhaust manifold because of holding down nut clearance issues the solution was to use K-nuts (https://k-nuts.com/) which have a smaller outer diameter.

I also used some Inconel turbo studs which arenít cheap and one of the studs a had a poorly cut thread. The Inconel studs shouldnít expand like normal steel studs with the aim of preventing the turbo coming loose, Iíve combined these with locking tabs and copper plated nuts.

Now the turbo is nearly bolted on Iíve started to plane the water connection to the turbo, the heater matrix inlet and outlet are conveniently placed these are 14-15mm diameter. The Garrett turbo water in/outlets are M14x1.5 threads Iíve ordered some barbed banjo unions to allow the water hoses to exit the turbo at 90į, the Garrett website indicates that the water in/outlets should be tilted at 15į from horizontal with a cold side feed lower so when the engine is off and hot the turbo will create a hot water syphon.

The big job has been fitting the new body work, I ordered new body work from Equinox and they have been great the quality is good, and I canít fault their service. My old side panels were cut of behind the front wishbones and cut in two where the old roll cage fitted on the outside of the chassis, this had the added benefit of making the front section removable, so I could easily access the oil filter and master cylinder etc. My new side panels are in one piece and cut around the front suspension its already looking a lot neater, to gain access to the oil filter starter etc Iíve created a service hatch in the side and disguised it as and cooling vent. The vent is aluminium and was made by Bathocars http://bathoscars.simpl.com/shop.html the workmanship is great and its very light. Iíve also included a vent on the exhaust side which allows me to cut out a large whole for the exhaust and I can trim the aluminium vent around the exhaust which wonít be effected by the heat as much as the fibre glass.

The bonnet and nose I joined into one piece because the header tank is now under the nose and I wanted easy access without have to unbolt the nose every time I wanted to check the water level, also the intercooler pipes will make fixing the nose difficult as there is no space to get my hands in side the nose at the edges.

The rear tub is on and bolted in next the rear arches can be fitted and the lights and electric can start. Iíve decided to ditch the mx5 switchgear mainly because the bulky steering column cowl doesnít look right. Iíve bought a universal switch gear from car builder solutions which I think is base on a landrover design which does dip main and indicators, the head light on side and on main is controlled by a switch which surprisingly was cheapest from Caterham cars.


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