Please can someone help?

Has anyone fitted one of these along with the EWP controller cause i am having a nightmare trying to stop the water system leaking.

Its leaking from the top coolant hose which has the thermostat wire coming out of it. What a poo design that is how can something seal if theres not a smooth circumferance.

I have tried countless times and trying different methods, i have tried using lots of silicone, i have cut a groove in a peace of hose then put another hose ontop of that and now im pissed off and out of ideas.

I phoned demon tweeks who i bought it off, they suggested asking a mechanic for help with fitting an item....

Any help very much appreciated.

These used to come with a bit of rubber that went under the hose and had a slot for the capilliary. This works fine on my Land Rover fitted with a Kenlowe fan, maybe you could one of these from Kenlowe?

Caber

Ok cheers ill maybe look into that.

I have one fitted and I have to agree it is a pretty naff way to mount the sender. I tried a couple of times but succeeded using some PU adhesive (not silicone) which sets pretty hard and won't get blown out. Just a dab around the wire where it exits the pipe should do it - let it set before filling up the system.

I would really like to replace it with a conventional sender unit eventually but it will need to be calibrated to the controller.

There is a lot of scepticism about these pumps but I have to say my experience is very good so far.

Ok cheers i try that where can i get PU adhesive will B&Q etc sell it?

I agree Razman why dont they just use a normal inline sender because its not gonna make any difference if the temperature is slightly out because your gonna make the controller work with the fluctuation in temperature anyway.

Cheers

Well i read the instructions that came with it again just to be sure i wasnt missing anything and i was.

It comes with a rubber seal which is designed to keep a smooth circumferance by having two grooves for the wire to sit in.

All ok so far but i have had this before and then a couple of days later the tiniest drop of water has trickled out. Fingers crossed its sorted it this time.

I am using mine without the controller...

Remove stat, and run full time...

No need for a controller really..

In Cyprus it is probably not needed but in the UK my engine runs below 70 degrees without the controller.

Its all good now anyway, no leaks so im well happy.

Its been a long mission but everything fluid leaked fuel, water and oil.

Gonna have another go at starting tonight so hopefully will get some oil pressure with the new oil plumbing.

Well no oil pressure so i was scratching my head and couldn't see why so i thought first thing to do will be check the sender.

Previously the sender wasn't earthed so was reading of the scale, it was earthed this time and showing a 0 reading.

I took the sender unit out and with a cloth over the hole turned the motor over and oil spat out so i can only presume the sender unit is faulty or something is definately wrong with the wiring because it should read something.

Will ring them this morning and see what they say.

I had a similar (but opposite) problem when I first fired up my engine. The sender stuck at the highest pressure so when I switched off the engine my gauge still read 3 bar! I tapped it a few times with a screwdriver handle and presto, back to zero. After a few starts & stops it soon came to its senses.

Sounds like a faulty sender in your case - hope so

[Edited on 26-1-07 by RazMan]

Guys I remember reading/seeing an inline connector that housed the theromcouple.

I had a similar leak on a bike engine trying to tuck it alongside the hose. Keep an eye on it since mine appeared to be random.

J

[Edited on 26/1/07 by jamestziros]

The in-line senders are available from Rally Design and they are perfect for most jobs, but the EWP controller is calibrated to one particular probe. I am sure that someone with a little electronics design knowledge could tweak the controller's sensor input to make it work though.

Called ETB who said to check sender with a multi metre by putting one probe on the terminal and the other on the Hexagonal part of the sender and i should get a 10ohms reading. I am getting about 6ohms.

Didnt have a chance to get back to them to see what this means if anything.

Bit miffed i wanted to get it sorted over the weekend.

It really depends on the range that the sender is calibrated. It could be 10 ohms to 1K ohms or something similar. If your sender is 60% of the correct reading then your gauge might not respond at all. Can you measure it with the engine running and see how the resistance changes?

Cant run engine until i know the dry sump system is working and that i have pressure.

In which case a good old fashioned mechanical oil pressure gauge would be your best bet - at least you would prove that you have pressure.

Check to make sure you have the correct wiring, as the etb sender has 2 connectors...

1 for pressure psi

1 for pressure switch on/off

You shouldnt need an earth through braided tube.. well mine does

Just one word of caution I remember from the BEC list a while back.

IIRC, if you solidly mount these things then the expansion of the casing etc can cause problems. I *think* the recommendation at the time was to mount it using some sort of rubber bushing that would allow for this.

No No remote mounted it as per ETB's instructions for bec's.

I had to earth it because it read 60 psi with no ignition or starter running so obviously wasnt earth once earthed it should 0.

ETB have sent me a new sender unit which arrived today so might try it lunch and see what happens.

It works so obviously a faulty sender unit.

Started tonight and had it idling nicely and got it fairley hot 75 degress or so. I need to sort the water pump and fan controller to increase temp maybe not to sure what to do with that at the moment.

The Digidash rpm reading was a little out reading 9500rpm at idle. Been reading the manual and i think i need to change the pulses per cycle anyone know what it should be for the zx12..

I managed to get the pressure set at 25psi at idle but it dropped when i blipped it.... Shouldn't it increase ?

Thinkin now i didnt tighten up the nut after fiddling with the pressure so maybe it was leaking pressure through there.

4 pulses per cycle if you have it connected to the tacho feed



You did remove the pressure relief valve didnt you?



[Edited on 31/1/07 by G.Man]

I have it connected to the tacho feed from the ecu yes.

Pressure relief valve ?

I have removed the kleen air system and the fuel seperator thing but not sure what you mean.

Im slightly worried now.


Sorry you are refering to the dry sump system aren't you. Are you refering to the pressure relief valve in the sump?

If so i didn't fit it myself had someone else do it but i do remember reading about it within the instructions to remove it.

[Edited on 31/1/07 by the moa 2]

Yup pressure relief valve in the sump...

It is replaced by a blanking bolt as the pressure is set on the dry sump pump...

25psi is a bit high on idle as well... the instructions say it should be 23psi at 4000 rpm and 90 degrees iirc that's about 19psi at idle...



[Edited on 31/1/07 by G.Man]

I will have to have a word with the guy who done the sump and see if he remember blanking it off.

Can you remember which way i screw the pressure valve to increase / decrease the pressure . Is it screw in the increase pressure and out to decrease ?

I couldn't work out what you were saying about the 98 degress, is that what your oil temp reads?

What does you car run at water temperature wise at idle.

mine is overheating, hence awaiting the new pump..

90 degrees is engine oil temperature.. but just properly warmed up should be fine..

I believe unscrew lowers pressure

but you should have the engine running, so ask someone to watch gauge, and test... use idle screw to raise rpm to 4000

Had another play last night and it seems fine with the pressure increasing when revs increase. Used the idle screw like you said which is obviously more controlled.

Had few more water leaks which is annoying but well happy that engine runs fine along with dry sump system.

sweet, glad I could help