Have you got a decent fuel supply?
Is it new fuel?
how is your throttle cable attached?
Do you have a choke on it?
Will it run at tickover OR full throttle etc.?
Answer a few of these to give us some more to go on
Steve
hi all,
got a 1999 r1 that wont run
turns over fires up ok
just wont run,
any ideas
done the normal stuff, clutch switch etc
any ideas
cheers paul
If it fires up ok, then it "shouldn't" be electrical...
Have you got a decent fuel supply?
Is it new fuel?
how is your throttle cable attached?
Do you have a choke on it?
Will it run at tickover OR full throttle etc.?
Answer a few of these to give us some more to go on
Steve
never had this prob b4
4th bec ive done,
turns over ok, fires up straight away !
just wont run, on choke, with throttle, with out it
only fires up ! nothing else
i had to remove a data tool alarm (blip not responding 
but like you said if it fires it should be ok,
its a strange one,
3 days on it so far !
brain is going now!
paul
[Edited on 21/3/08 by ch1ll1]
You would of thought that there was enough fuel in the float bowls to do more than just start up so that hints that it's not your fuel pump but
doesn't eliminate it altogether.
How is the pressure from the pump? (was talking to Chris Mason recently) you could check the pressure by disconnecting the hose at the carbs and
getting a clean bucket ready.
What pump are you using? (is it R1, is it 2nd hand or new)
When I said that it wasn't elctrics, I was referring more to the changes that you've made to the loom, clutch/sidestand/neutral mods that
you've prob got right as it's your 4th.
Do you have anyone local that you can swap and change stuff with?
TPS, ECU etc?
Steve
have you checked the tilt switch? ours did this, fired up and then died!!
cheers Tom
tried 2 fuel pumps r1+blade pump
no one local i dont think!
got a good friend at a bike shop 
might have to pay him a visit.
dont think its got i tilt switch !
I'm not sure the '99 R1 has a tilt sensor does it, plus a tilt switch should stop the fuel pump and it starting altogether (I know Tim said
different, but there's an exception to most rules!).
Have you tried the diff pumps to counter this current problem?
Have you used New Fuel hose? (it can perish and collapse but look fine externally)
Have you made any changes to the carbs/jets/manifold etc?
Hmmm... should just be the clutch and stand switches to 'defeat' - what have you done with the stop switch?
new copper fuel line
not tuched the carbs. YET
got the original stop/start switch,
not butcherd it yet ! 
[Edited on 21/3/08 by ch1ll1]
Stop switch might be worth a look.
Makes me so happy that I:
a. Butchered my loom to get rid of all the crap.
b. Managed to make it all work.
Sorry about the smugness.
If the stop switch wasn't already correct in it's operation then it would prevent it from starting/turning/catching etc all together...
Smugness Tim, how did you get on with the rest of your car?
Oh, hang on a minute, didn't you set your car on fire when you wired it up???
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Stop switch might be worth a look.
Makes me so happy that I:
a. Butchered my loom to get rid of all the crap.
b. Managed to make it all work.
Sorry about the smugness.
Thanks Joe!
If your wiring turns out as tidy as mine, talk to me again.
just checked stop switch.
butcherd it,
now on seperate switches
still no go !
could have some thing to do with the alarm i took out
paul
If it cranks and fires, its not an electrical problem, almost certainly. If it is electrical, it won't be anything to do with the switches or it
wouldn't even fire.
My first thoughts are fuel or perhaps air flow. Are your jets partly blocked? It must be getting some fuel to fire but then not enough to start.
Are your float levels OK? Check them with a piece of transparent hose.
Mine wouldn't start when I first tried it. I was told to get some engine start spray. "I use 'Start you 8astard' but you
can't get it in this country" was the actual advice. He then suggested a squirt of WD40 in each carb. If it goes for a couple of seconds
then you know what it is. Mine would run on a short squirt in each carb every 2 seconds or so. Probably not a good idea to run on WD for a prolonged
period but for a few seconds will be OK.
Are your carbs sealed to the engine OK? Perhaps you're getting air sucked in, diluting the mixture. Get out the WD40 again. Squirt round all
the rubber connectors. If you're leaking air in, you'll now leak WD in, and it'll run on that.
When you say it "fires", I assume you're getting an odd pop and bang when you're turning ot over on the starter? Have you got the plugs leads connected the right way round? What state are the plugs in?
Is the timing out? main/idle jet or jets blocked? Fresh fuel?
Coose might be on to something with the plug order...
all the best, I hate head scratchers with 100 possible causes.
it fires up, runs for a split second or two,
so i would say fuel,
think its time to rip the carbs to bits!! 
paul
[Edited on 21/3/08 by ch1ll1]
Does the alarm you removed have a built in immobiliser that might have been cutting the fuel supply?
Do you have power to the pump when trying to run the engine?
If it all worked fine before removal of alarm then I would almost certainly be looking at that first as a possible cause.
fuel pump pumps.
open the float bowl drains,and drain use fresh fuel,use a gravity feed to carbs, if still no joy has some-one messed with the throttle position sensor, if it pops is sounds like fueling
ok striped the carbs today !
cleaned them didn't look to bad, still no joy,
but if i hold the starter on it runs longer !
so i was thinking (might be looking to deep into this)
on the wiring loom it show the cycle-lock
mine don't have that !
what if the data-tool alarm removed the wiring block from the cycle-lock
and just used those wires,
and I've not connected them up as they should be !
would i get it to at least fire up and then cut out,
tried today to start her up
with the throttle wide open, it revved up and stopped after a second,
would i be able to wire it up so on cranking i get alive but when i stop cranking i lose a power some where?
paul
p.s
think i will get a loom just to try it !
any thoughts?
[Edited on 22/3/08 by ch1ll1]
The switches and lockouts on the carbed R1 loom disable cranking and starting. If yours runs on the switch then its fine, it just doesn't make
enough power to keep itself going.
My working R1 engine is a bit like that if its been sat in sub zero temperatures.
try starting it with a freind who spayes brake cleaner or deodorant in the carbs, if its consistenly runs on deodorant its the fuel system. spark =
spark, it even runs if you switch the coils. already had two R1 engines, only problem I had with the carbs was hat two cylinders were pluged,bot with
throttle the came along. cleaned it and presto.....
engine is technical OK?? compression etc. sparkplug loose??
gr MR2
I agree with the above, I had problems getting mine to start.
With the plugs removed i had one round of sparks then no more, so it would fire up then stop.
Have you checked to see you have a repeating spark when cranking?
Mine was all down to not earthing a wire from the relay box.
ok been out tonight in the garage
wired the start switch on a rocker switch
we all know it fires up,
well left the starter turning over( i know i should not)
and it runs and revs up don't cut out until i switch the starter switch of !
so the engine i know now runs, but i cannot leave it like that as the starter will burn out !
any ideas?
paul
[Edited on 27/3/08 by ch1ll1]
If it was fuel pump related it'd take time to run out in the carb bowls (few second then cough, splutter, and die). If it was HT ignition system
it wouldn't fire. Sounds like it has ignition during cranking but looses it when the starter is released?
Couple of possibilities...
Did the alarm include an immobiliser? If so it could be that. Not sure on the carb R1 but many car immobilisers don't kill ignition when
cranking.
Which way up is your tilt switch. Can't remember if it'd let the engine turn over and cause your symptoms but...UP should be on top and not
writen the right way up on the side.
Have you checked the ignition relays and fuses. Are any by-passed when cranking.
Sorry if I'm way out on any of this but I'm more familiar with the injection R1.
adrian
its an electrical problem,
but finding it is a mare,
so new loom i think
If you are going to do that, give serious thought to chopping half of it out and wiring it the same as a car. Means you can start in gear etc etc. If I look at my notes in the manual I can tell you what to chop out.
Double check your tilt switch. They definatly turn over and fire but die when the starter is released when this is the wrong way up. Saw one at a kit
manufacturers that they'd been playing with for a week and it was the tilt switch!
Spotting that got me a hefty discount on the parts I'd gone for!
adrian
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
If you are going to do that, give serious thought to chopping half of it out and wiring it the same as a car. Means you can start in gear etc etc. If I look at my notes in the manual I can tell you what to chop out.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Double check your tilt switch. They definatly turn over and fire but die when the starter is released when this is the wrong way up. Saw one at a kit manufacturers that they'd been playing with for a week and it was the tilt switch!
Spotting that got me a hefty discount on the parts I'd gone for!
adrian
quote:
Originally posted by Coose
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
If you are going to do that, give serious thought to chopping half of it out and wiring it the same as a car. Means you can start in gear etc etc. If I look at my notes in the manual I can tell you what to chop out.
Rubbish. If you link out the right bits you can start it in gear. Plus, you have the delights of the lovely little relays etc., with the beauty of minimal butchering, hence fewer potential faults...
too late just have done
any thoughts on starter relay.
could that be the prob (woulndt think so just thinking out loud )
spark = spark. it wont cut out if you stop cranking. Can you push start the car? And look if it fires,This eliminate the starter relay. Also heat the radiator with an electric heater to warm up the engine. Wire the fuelpump separate to make sure it gets fuel. Are the sparkplugs wet? And spraying some sort of starting fluid works. It eliminates fueling and proves its an electric problem.
If you want any relay boxes etc etc I have a hacked apart loom and you're welcome to any bits off it.
quote:
Originally posted by ch1ll1
any thoughts on starter relay.
could that be the prob (woulndt think so just thinking out loud )
Did you eventually get it running? (sorry just joined forum).
I had the exact same problem with my R1 engine. It would run for a second after cranking then stop when the start button was released. I looked at the
starter relay wiring and discovered that one of the small wires from the relay was only live when the button was pressed. This wire has nothing to do
with triggering the relay. I ran a live from the battery to it and she ran. Not sure if it ran to the ecu, few years back now.
I re-wired the relay in the end so it worked on its own isolated circuit.
Hope that helps