Board logo

Front Indicator Extensions - Easy Solution
Avoneer - 20/7/07 at 08:39 PM

Hopefully, everyone should be able to do this.

Seems like the easiest and hassle free way.

Buy a length of 20mm electrical conduit from somewhere like B&Q.

Cut to length.

Using a vice or rubber mallet, insert a 10mm nut into each end of the conduit.

Screw indicator into one side.

Drill a 5mm hole through the centre of an M10 bolt.

Hold up to car and bolt in place.

Easy.

As long as your indicators have M10 threads!

Pat... Rescued attachment 1.JPG
Rescued attachment 1.JPG


Avoneer - 20/7/07 at 08:40 PM

Next pic: Rescued attachment 2.JPG
Rescued attachment 2.JPG


Avoneer - 20/7/07 at 08:41 PM

Next pic: Rescued attachment 3.JPG
Rescued attachment 3.JPG


Avoneer - 20/7/07 at 08:42 PM

Last pic: Rescued attachment 5.JPG
Rescued attachment 5.JPG


nib1980 - 20/7/07 at 08:52 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Last pic:


what and where did you get your indicators from? i like your idea and want to blatently copy it....


slim Jim - 20/7/07 at 09:09 PM

I did exactly the same but used 15mm copper pipe as I was using M8 bolts. Used a bit of heat shrink on the copper tube for improved looks.


Avoneer - 20/7/07 at 09:12 PM

Think they were from Vehicle Wiring Products. If not, ebay!

The idea was for everyone to copy - stops folk having to think about it.

Good idea with the copper - that's M8 indicators sorted as well!

Pat...

[Edited on 20/7/07 by Avoneer]


nick205 - 20/7/07 at 09:23 PM

Exactly what I did with mine, still in place 1200 miles later

quote:
Originally posted by slim Jim
I did exactly the same but used 15mm copper pipe as I was using M8 bolts. Used a bit of heat shrink on the copper tube for improved looks.


AdrianH - 20/7/07 at 10:25 PM

Are you glueing the nuts into the tube or adding the odd tack weld or anything?

Perhaps just relying on the tightness of the nut in the tube, be interested to know as I would have thought vibration would work the things apart.

Cheers

Adrian


40inches - 21/7/07 at 09:45 AM

If you make the tube in one piece,and long enough i.e through the nose cone and out the other side, the tube becomes part of the body and all of the suspension behind and below is exempt from SVA radii checking(checked with cone)


Paradoxia0 - 21/7/07 at 11:47 AM

I did the same, only different being I used overflow water pipe, used the bolt in one end and a nut in the other and araldited them into the tube.

Works well, I have done a couple of hundred miles and still not fallen off

I got my indicators off eBay from a motorcyle parts company. I got the clear/iridium lenses on mine and as they were E marked passed SVA

Mark


wicket - 21/7/07 at 02:01 PM

I used these, black body with amber lens.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MCYCLE&pcode=BIKINDULSPBLK


bob - 21/7/07 at 04:07 PM

I did the same for my re test, one of things i completely forgot to measure up pre test.

Plastic conduit worked fine and carried no or little weight. Rescued attachment MK Indy build pics 168.jpg
Rescued attachment MK Indy build pics 168.jpg


Avoneer - 22/7/07 at 10:28 PM

quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
Are you glueing the nuts into the tube or adding the odd tack weld or anything?

Perhaps just relying on the tightness of the nut in the tube, be interested to know as I would have thought vibration would work the things apart.

Cheers

Adrian




You don't get much vibration during SVA.

Pat...


Avoneer - 12/8/07 at 07:27 PM

Slight addition:

Glue the nuts into the tubes with araldite or similar.

One arm went a bit wobbly just before SVA, but fortunately, he didn't wobble them.

Pat...