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fitting a radiator at an angle
02GF74 - 14/12/05 at 02:20 PM

I am creating jobs for myself!!! ... and one is to swap the position of the radiator and fan.

I do not think there is enough room for the raditor in its proposed position due to chasis rails underneath so either I find another shorter but slightly wider radiator or try to fit it at an angle from vertical.

The forum search has not come up with anything but is there a maximum angle beyond with the radiator is no longer working efficiently?

The vertical surface area decreases so is there any data on how cooling and air flow is affected according to the radiator angle?

Or is it simply such a bad idea that I should forget consider it?

I do not know if this will be possible nor what sort of angle will result, I'd be very surprised if it is more than 45 degrees, probably about 20.

[Edited on 14/12/05 by 02GF74]


Petemate - 14/12/05 at 03:01 PM

My rad is sloping back at about 40 degrees from vertical - it works OK as I've fitted it in such a way that the air HAS to go through it not round it.
It works so well that it over-cools in frosty conditions, so I'm going to have to get a winter 'stat. (2 litre Pinto with Mk2 Cav rad)
A fellow club member has his rad HORIZONTAL!! As long as the air can get through (he has an electric fan of course) it doesn't seem to matter.
HTH
Pete


02GF74 - 14/12/05 at 03:31 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Petemate
My rad is sloping back at about 40 degrees from vertical - it works OK as I've fitted it in such a way that the air HAS to go through it not round it.
It works so well that it over-cools in frosty conditions, so I'm going to have to get a winter 'stat. (2 litre Pinto with Mk2 Cav rad)



cheers for that, so it is doable.

40 degree!!! looking from the side, is the top sloping to the front or to the back?

Can you measure for me the mk2 cavalier rad? (with and without the mounting brackets). The height not including the rad cap, and then the extra bit for the cap.

oh, an a couple of photos would be great!

ideally I would like a wider but lower rad but adhering to locost philosphy I hope toget away with the existing radiator at an angle, espacially since it seems to be a new one.


Humbug - 14/12/05 at 03:51 PM

As mentioned, as long as the air goes throught the rad OK you should be all right.

If it is significantly off vertical, blocking uo the gaps between the edges of the rad and the nose cone will help a lot.

I did this with my Polo rad even though it is nearly vertical, and have had no problems... although it was only SVAd in October

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=2005-09-03%20Locost%20old%20and%20new%20radiators.JPG


02GF74 - 14/12/05 at 03:59 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Humbug

I did this with my Polo rad even though it is nearly vertical, and have had no problems... although it was only SVAd in October




what on earth is going on here?!?!?!?

It looks to me that you have put some sort of fixings, probably to hold a fan on the rear - through the matrix? Obviously you have been careful to avoid holing the tubes but how long do you expect that to hold intact? In my opinion, very very bad. Surely there must be a better way?

[Edited on 14/12/05 by 02GF74]


iank - 14/12/05 at 04:18 PM

Erm I believe that's a standard way to fix aftermarket fans. Kenlowe certainly use it.

http://www.kenlowe.com/fans/consumers/fans05.html see the picture by the mountings sub-title.


Humbug - 14/12/05 at 04:29 PM

quote:
Originally posted by iank
Erm I believe that's a standard way to fix aftermarket fans. Kenlowe certainly use it.

http://www.kenlowe.com/fans/consumers/fans05.html see the picture by the mountings sub-title.


Yup - they are the fixings that came with the fan (from CarBuilder Solutions). They are basically like chunky cable ties and not a problem as long as you feed them carefully between the fins of the rad.


Petemate - 14/12/05 at 05:02 PM

I'll do some pics on Fri for you. The reason I went for the Cav rad was the supplied rad with the RH kit was the early one with only single core. Although the Cav rad is also single core, the tubes are much larger and it really does work well. One problem however is the entry & exit connections, which required some head-scratching to adapt. You'll see what I mean when I do the pics. Sorry, away at work tomorrow but will deffo do 'em Fri.
Pete


nick205 - 14/12/05 at 05:14 PM

I've used cable ties to fix my fan to the rad as well, nothing special, just ordinary cable ties carefully threaded through the rad fins/pipes. The fan weighs very little as it's all plastic construction. Like Humbug says, it's a very common practice in kit and aftermarket solutions. It certainly saves a lot of messing about trying to make brackets.

HTH
Nick


RazMan - 14/12/05 at 08:46 PM

Most middies (mine included) have the radiator mounted at an angle to squeeze them under a low profile body - so no problem within reason. You can always duct the air in if you need to improve airflow.

One pointer though - I was once told by a radiator maker that those cable tie thingies that a lot of aftermarket fans are fitted with are bad news - they will eventually work loose and vibrate their way through the rad core, leaving you stranded on a cold, dark, wet Sunday night with no tools on board

Make a proper bracket!


02GF74 - 15/12/05 at 09:42 AM

quote:
Originally posted by RazMan

One pointer though - I was once told by a radiator maker that those cable tie thingies that a lot of aftermarket fans are fitted with are bad news - they will eventually work loose and vibrate their way through the rad core, leaving you stranded on a cold, dark, wet Sunday night with no tools on board

Make a proper bracket!


Spot on!! I had another think about this tough and I see you are using aluminium rad. and there is less metal around the frame - I am more familiar with the copper coered tyep. So maybe the aluminium ones use stronger cores?

Vibration over time is gonna take its toll. If it was such a good idea, how come the volume car manufacturers don't use this method, gotta be cheaper surely?

And as for weight of the fan being low, remember when it is running it will vibrate plus try to move nearear or away from the radiator so there will be some flexing.

Not the solution I would be using.


Petemate - 15/12/05 at 11:54 AM

I also saw remarks re the retainers for the fans. It was stated that these are OK as long as they are sleeved with rubber to protect the rad tubes.
HTH
Pete


Petemate - 16/12/05 at 01:18 PM

Hi again. Info on the Cav Mk2 rad. size 600mm X 420mm, thickness 25mm core, 50mm header tanks. I was wrong, it's more like 45 degrees.
Pic 1..

[Edited on 16/12/05 by Petemate] Rescued attachment MVC-898S.JPG
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Petemate - 16/12/05 at 01:19 PM

Pic 2. You can see how I've had to take the bottom hose down out of the nosecone; it is hidden nicely behind the number plate when the bonnet is shut.

[Edited on 16/12/05 by Petemate]

[Edited on 16/12/05 by Petemate] Rescued attachment MVC-899S.JPG
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Petemate - 16/12/05 at 01:22 PM

Last pic. Shows the sucker fan which came with the rad - does a good job. After Total Kit Car at Brands, for the hell of it I went home to Oxford via the S Circ. Approx 20mph max all the way round it, cooling system behaved perfect. The small pipe from the top right of the rad goes to the top of the Astra spherical exp tank while a tee-off from the bottom hose goes to the bottom of the exp tank. Hope it all helps.
Pete

[Edited on 16/12/05 by Petemate] Rescued attachment MVC-900S.JPG
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