Hi,

Got the Pinto engine out earlier today to try and rectify this inoperative clutch problem (it has never worked since I bought the car, I was told it had had a new clutch fitted but it wasn't done correctly. The clutch would dip but gears were not selectable and the clutch arm moved only a short distance of circa 10mm).

Anyway, could someone cast an eye over a couple of photos of the clutch and bearing to see if there is anything that jumps out as being problematic.

I am going to try and make a centralising tool so I can see if this is off center and if so by how much (I will post any other photos later).

One thing I did notice (though I couldn't be 100% that I didn't do it during the wrestling match of splitting the engine and gearbox), is that one of the release bearing retaining clips has the tag missing.

Are they easily available to buy?

EDIT: I forgot to mention, the guide sleeve/bearing didnt actually move that freely. There is no sign of any grease, should there be?

Piccies below, thanks in advance for any help / info.







[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]

Check that the friction plate is in the right way round. The nose should be away from the flywheel and the gearbox shaft engages it and I can't see it in your picture.

[Edited on 18/5/10 by Peteff]

It looks to me from the first picture that the small lugs on the release bearing have broken off. They locate the bearing on the clutch arm but how that relates to your symptoms, not sure. Maybe the bearing is fouling on the arm restricting its movement.

They're about £13 on Ebay or Ford dealers may still have them.

Cheers

Alex

Ok I'm no expert but I'll share my thoughts. I hope you checked the cable operation before you stripped, was the fork being pulling in correctly? The problem with a cutch being misaligned is generally the fact the input shaft on the gearbox doesn't line up when you try fitting the box to the engine, I don't think this is your problem. If that's a new clutch kit it looks like it's been sitting in the damp for some time, has the springs seized? Finally check that this is the correct clutch kit for this engine.

J

I agree with Peteff that plate looks like it's the wrong way round. The lug on the relese bearing will not cause the trouble you are expieriencing.

RD

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
Check that the friction plate is in the right way round. The nose should be away from the flywheel and the gearbox shaft engages it and I can't see it in your picture.

[Edited on 18/5/10 by Peteff]

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Hi,

Thanks for all the replies but I am now a bit lost as to what looks the likely cause.

Are you saying it can't be the friction plate on the wrong way as it wouldn't have all bolted together?

Is the same true for my concern about the alignment being off centre? (ie wouldn't it have all gone together if this was the fault?)

If its not the friction plate and not the spindle off centre what could it be?

(the clutch has been stood for circa 5 years, it has never been driven with)

What can I do to minimize the chance of putting it back together still inoperative?


THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE INPUT.

[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]

In my experience, if it was misaligned the gearbox wouldn't have bolted onto the engine in the first place so I doubt it's that.

Take the cover off and have a look.

It will be marked on the friction plate which way round it should be.

I think Alex is right though, only from vague memory though.

I wonder if the clutch release arm came off the peg in the bell housing, this could explain the off center release bearing pattern when the clutch cable pulls but there is no pivot at the other end of the release arm

yeh clutch plate wrong way round

Hi,

Thanks again for the further replies. I will go take a look shortly.

Just another mention (don't know if it's correct or not), the other day when I pressed the clutch pedal, the movement on the clutch lever arm was circa 10mm. I have tried it just without anything connected and the cable travels 34mm.

Does that outline anything?

THANKS AGAIN.

Hi,

The friction plate is marked "flywheel side". This is facing towards the engine, against the flywheel (away from the gearbox), which I presume is correct, as it is the only way it can go.

Thanks for the continued input.




[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]

"The clutch would dip but gears were not selectable and the clutch arm moved only a short distance of circa 10mm). "

Have you got the standard Sierra pedals? If so you can get different coloured (and sized) quadrants for the top of the pedal, giving you more clutch arm movement for the same pedal travel.

You say that the clutch cable moves 34mm yet the clutch arm only moves 10 mm have you taken all the slack out of the cable or is something binding somewere

quote:

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Originally posted by yamapinto
You say that the clutch cable moves 34mm yet the clutch arm only moves 10 mm have you taken all the slack out of the cable or is something binding somewere

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Hi but did the pedel travel right to the floor with the engine in or did it feel to jam ?

quote:

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Originally posted by yamapinto
Hi but did the pedel travel right to the floor with the engine in or did it feel to jam ?

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It's possible your clutch cable is too tight and all the movement is already taken up but unfortunatly you will only be able to try this with it all built up again sorry I can't give you a better reply but good luck

quote:

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Originally posted by yamapinto
It's possible your clutch cable is too tight and all the movement is already taken up but unfortunatly you will only be able to try this with it all built up again sorry I can't give you a better reply but good luck

---

quote:

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Originally posted by SteveWalker
"The clutch would dip but gears were not selectable and the clutch arm moved only a short distance of circa 10mm). "

Have you got the standard Sierra pedals? If so you can get different coloured (and sized) quadrants for the top of the pedal, giving you more clutch arm movement for the same pedal travel.

---

I had a similar problem when fitting a type 9 to my crossflow, I managed to borrow another clutch set and it worked all I can think was the release springs had weakened or something along those lines had happened. Link to thread.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=93012


[Edited on 19/5/10 by locobri]

[Edited on 19/5/10 by locobri]

Hi,

THANKS to all the contributors and PM`s.

Clutch now operative and tested "round and round and round and round............my drive"

CHEERS

[Edited on 19/5/10 by Tipster69]

Nice one What was the end solution?

dont leave us in suspense, what was the cure?