Is there an accepted design that is used on the 7s where one can adjust the ride height without adjusting the springs.
So what I am saying is there a design to move the shock mounting points?
Just making bib brackets with lost of holes is not the idea. some fine adjustment is needed.

I don't see how moving the shock mounts would do what you want. Wouldn't you have to move the wishbone mounting brackets ? (or fit bigger wheels and adjust tyre pressures )

I'm not sure why you'd want to do it that way and not use the built in shock adjustment to achieve the same thing.

However you could use off centre mounting bushes/eyes or adapter plates for the top shock mount. Similar to the off-centre mushroom adapters widely used to attache the upper wishbone to a Sierra front upright. That would allow some fine tuning.

you could make the first known 7 with hydraulics

Funnily enough I was also looking at this for my new car, the idea being ride high could be adjusted without affecting the total stroke of the coil-over. A simple series of holes one above the other on the upper shock mount on the chassis would be one way to do this.

push/pull rods and inboard coilovers?

i guess you could make a threaded adjuster for the top shock mount if outboard, like a landrover adjustable height tow hitch, but as has been said, i don't see what your need is for it.

it's also probably easier to engineer the shockers to be inboard than actually make the above work well too.

tom

search for air ride....
there are pneumatic chocks for that

tks

What's the purpose, for show? If so it doesn't matter how it's done. If it's to lower the car for the track, be aware that once the ride height is changed away from the designed value, the RC and camber curves change, and probably for the worse.

Use a Citroen as your donor

I assume you want to do this to get the corner weights right and - or to correct for construction tolerances?

Here's 2 methods to do it...

1. Bolt rather than weld on the shock top mounting bracket and use shims between the frame and bracket to get the desired result.

2. Put the top bracket onto a threaded bar which is wound in and out of a suitably threaded and securely mounted tube on the frame.

Both of these methods are used on sports motorcycles. I'd suggest a trip to the local bike shop for more ideas.

Also some shocks such as this one...



Are adjustable in length as well so this also a possibility.

Various Methods, in order of elegance

1) Use torsion bars and at the dead end adjust the angle of the arm with a bolt, wedge or screw jack. Look at a Morris Marina to get the principle. The factory actually used this method to trim ride heights due to the way the splines were rolled.

2)Mount each suspension on subframes and space these from the chassis

3) Use Citroen.....actually very easy

4) Use adjustable pushrods on the inboard coil overs

5) use airbags

6) Hydraulics.

But as has been said altering ride height throws out your carefully designed (you have carefully designed?) geometry. Suspension is designed around a working height.

Just trying to keep the shocks in their 1/3 of their stoke when the car is set to the correct ride height.

I have considered doing this, but would work much better on inboard shocks. The idea I had would just be for speed bumps ect. Just an electric screw drive or air cylinder to turn a cam which would adjust the bottom plate as to where the dead end of the shocks would be. There are speed bumps in my town that I am sure that must be around 4 inches high.
Dale