Can anyone tell me the correct geometry figures for a standard MK indy? Also steering toe angle so I can get it all set up properly,they will need these figures.
Cheers lewis.

Not sure there is a single correct set of figures.

From memory mine are:

Toe 0.5 degrees front and rear (rear is as it comes from the factory)

Caster 6.5 degrees, via modified top bones. Had about 5 degree as standard.

Camber front 0.5 degree, rear 0 degrees

Mushroom with hole to front.

Stu

Don't MK give you these??

use the search. this question gets asked about once a month!

dont mean to come across harsh, its not meant like that. i just find that searching for mainstream info normally answers your question and provides other nuggets of info associated with it.

[Edited on 1/3/13 by bi22le]

The MK Indy rear toe is non-adjustable with the standard wishbones. In my own experience the rear toe, as built, was positive one side and negative the other and by differing amounts. The general consensus seems to be that IRS cars should have rear toe in to improve cornering grip.

I adjusted mine to give both sides the same degree of positive toe in by fitting shim washers between the rear hub carrier and rear upright. This was only measured static with the ride height already set. The difference was very noticeable on the road on tighter bends and roundabouts.

Might be worth checking what extent your setup people will go to and maybe obtaining some shim washers before you start.

Ideally it would be great to have some static web pages alongside the forum for setting out information like this that gets asked frequently.

Yes, the answers can always be found by using the search facility but often this means wading through lots of posts and having to piece it together from several threads or posts. Add to that all the instances where information is given in a post then challenged by someone else and promptly goes off topic so there is no clear defineable answer in the thred for someone to later find in a search. It could be done with stickys but adding a sticky for every bit of established information isnt feasible.
For new builders and those looking to dip their toes in the water I imagine this can be quite confusing.

Is there a reason this type of information hasn't been collected together and put on some webpages ?

quote:

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Originally posted by Not Anumber
Ideally it would be great to have some static web pages alongside the forum for setting out information like this that gets asked frequently.

Yes, the answers can always be found by using the search facility but often this means wading through lots of posts and having to piece it together from several threads or posts. Add to that all the instances where information is given in a post then challenged by someone else and promptly goes off topic so there is no clear defineable answer in the thred for someone to later find in a search. It could be done with stickys but adding a sticky for every bit of established information isnt feasible.
For new builders and those looking to dip their toes in the water I imagine this can be quite confusing.

Is there a reason this type of information hasn't been collected together and put on some webpages ?

---

I'd recommend front toe of close to 0 for track use, and smooth Tarmac. Harder work on more uneven roads, but much better turn in.

I copied this from a post by Snoopy, many years ago, he should know/have known:

"basic setup
tracking 0-1degree toe
camber 1 degree in all round
mushroom inserts offset hole to front
tyre pressures 17 -18 p.s.i
damper settings around 7 clicks
ride height personaly about 4 inch

[Edited on 26/4/06 by snoopy]

Ride height front 110mm
rear 130mm
Damper settings 6 clicks from full anti-clockwise
Tyre pressures 17 p.s.i"

Thanks for the helpful replys guys.

Be very careful with the rear toe setting --- the rear must have some toe-in 0.2 to 0.3 degrees is enough
At the front 0 to 0.20 degrees ie. aim for just a smidgen of toe.

0 degrees of toe gives minimum tyre wear in straight line running.

Some toe-in gives straight line stability but on the front makes the car more reluctant to turn in.
Toe-out on the rear just makes the car unstable.

For track use you need more negative camber, but it increases tyre wear in road use.

I'll second toe in at the rear.

Under acceleration the rears start to toe out, which as mentioned, will make it unstable