Been offered an 893 blade engine complete 1993 engine what's it worth and are they any good?
depends whats with it i suppose,
great little engines though,
prob £300 to £500 i would say, see what others think too,
great engines, very robust fora tiddler
Bit old now, but still good enough to go quicker than you
And at that price igf it goes pop you buy another
£250-400 very complete IMO
It has all electrics, copy of v5, no exhaust basically I think it's all there
Paid 300 for it, hope it runs lol, need to get all the parts together now to fit it
good price (Y)
I recently picked an engine up that had been sat for a number of years.
All I did was spray a bit of wd40 into the pistons and turned it over by hand a few times and then fired it up! first go!
If its had fuel sat in the carbs, give them a good clean out too
I've got all electrics, no ignition though, who knows about the wiring on these?
Your going to need an ECU and coils and a loom if you not got one (or get handy) http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=181275
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=70917
Haynes book is fine for the diagram
It has ecu cool packs, etc, not sure if I need ignition, or it can be bypassed
Not collecting engine until the weekend and he has the haynes book for it too
You've go it all then
What do you mean by ignition, the keyswitch?
Yes and clocks but was going to use acewell or koso?
Thats fine.
It will run without either. No hidden resistors codes or anything, just power up
Picked it up today and looks like it's all there, turns over , has all gears, there is no gear lever, what do you guys use? I'm not sure wether to go for paddles or lever, If I have a lever I want to pull on the gear-lever for up and push for down, did I see someone on here had a cad drawing for paddles?
You can buy a short lever to fit the splimed shaft. (Posibbly AB? ). I literally chopped and drilled an old lever for my home made shift.
Your choice lever or paddled, might be driven by your choice of column.
Various threads on hear about the differs the set ups and how
I've managed to put the ending Ito the engine bay, not sure how I should position it, has anyone got any detailed pics? My exhaust ports seem to be close to top chassis rail, the engine is sat with the sump flush with the underside of the lower chassis, I have taken some pics, just need to upload them
Unless you are making your own exhaust then pick one up and use that to position the engine.
Gear change, look on eBay for a monkey bike arm, made of steel so you can bend, weld or tap with ease and only a couple if ££
quote:
Originally posted by locost7-online.com
I've managed to put the ending Ito the engine bay, not sure how I should position it, has anyone got any detailed pics? My exhaust ports seem to be close to top chassis rail, the engine is sat with the sump flush with the underside of the lower chassis, I have taken some pics, just need to upload them
I've now dropped the engine by 25mm, looks much better for exhaust clearance, I just need to finalise the position of engine, anyone got dims or pics?
With reference to the gear linkage, apparently it's quite easy to drill holes in one of these cheap "pit bike" gear levers from ebay
(and then connect cable or rods, depending on what you prefer):
http://r.ebay.com/7QN5JZ
If you go for cable shift, some people seem to suggest using push/pull cables used to control outboard motors on boats! (in other threads on here)
I use 2 rods one to the pit bike gear lever into a triangle pivot near the top of the chassis the other down the tunnel
Works great.
quote:
Originally posted by jossey
I use 2 rods one to the pit bike gear lever into a triangle pivot near the top of the chassis the other down the tunnel
Works great.
Think my rods are about 12mm