I am looking at changing the CBR900 engine in my STM chassis to a later model CBR1000 engine. I was looking at a 2012 CBR1000 as well but have decided to go to a 2010 model instead as the 2012 models are drive (ride) by wire and since I am using a flat shifter with cable throttle blip I would prefer a cable set-up. The 2010 also has more torque and a larger flywheel for better off idle response.
The engines are fairly tall but I have spoken with Andy at AB performance about their baffled sumps and they drop a fair bit of height from the engine so I will be using one of those. I then intend to build a new custom intake box to house the top firing injectors mounted off to the side to keep it under the bonnet, I will most likely either lose a few BHP or shift the power curve a bit by doing this but I think with an aftermarket tune I can pick most of it back up.
Anyways getting to the point, I wanted to ask others who have fitted these engines if they will run without the factory instrument cluster as I want to use aftermarket gauges? I will most likely have to use the factory key and ignition switch due to the HISS system (unless I get a US ECU & key) which is fine but I definitely want to be able to get away without using the factory gauges. Is this an option or does anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram so I can work it out from there?

For those interested I found a service manual including the wiring diagram here: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BwNoHptieRvCNWtjMFlfaXlMX1U&export=download

Hard to make out some bits though.

My 2012 CBR1000RR has a cable throttle.
The model year was confirmed when I gave the engine number to a bike shop while ordering some bits.

I use an AIM pista dash with mine. There was no way to take the info direct from the bike ecu so it had to be wired up to all the required sensors..

Andy at AB does a decent looking airbox now that reduces the height of the engine by a fair amount..
I couldn't find a way around the HISS so the key is taped into the loom and tucked behind the dash.

Thanks Gaz, that's exactly what I was after. My plan too was to use the factory key with its RFID hidden behind the dash somewhere so I could try and get away with using the current ignition switch and starter button. I work in the auto electrical industry so should be able to get around it without too many headaches.....should!
The drive (ride) by wire option may have been a late edition to the 2012 model or was maybe just something designated for the US models.