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Hayabusa build advice
spiderman01980 - 27/10/18 at 12:53 PM

Hi all. I have a hayabusa full running bike coming on Monday or Tuesday. Now I don't want to get carried away as I always do and just jump into it and start stripping here and there and get lost in what am doing.
1st thing am investing in is a haynes manual, a must, and a bulk load of neurofen tablets for all the headaches am going to get.
Am not going to race with it and I dought I'll ever take it on a track day, just purley road use. What are the main modifications I need to be doing to the engine for road car use. Do I need to change the clutch, sump, fuel pump.

russbost - 27/10/18 at 01:05 PM

If it's going in a 7 or similar then I think you'll need to dry sump or at minimum accusump. If it's only for road use standard clutch should be adequate. Not sure on the fuel pump, I think it may be an in tank unit in which case you're probably going to want to fit an inline as a replacement with an adjustable fuel reg

spiderman01980 - 27/10/18 at 01:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by russbost
If it's going in a 7 or similar then I think you'll need to dry sump or at minimum accusump.


Yes it's going in a Aries Locost. I've been looking at dry sumps and they do cost a few quid but I suppose it does the job. Am I right to think the accusump is probably the cheapest option it the one that will take up more space in the engine bay. Will buffle plates not do the job?
Am not trying to be tight here but it's the wife's nagging when I spend money that kills me, not the actual cost of the parts.

russbost - 27/10/18 at 01:46 PM

You need someone with personal experience of the 'Busa in a 7 - I'm only quoting from what I've seen posted in the past, for road use a baffled sump might be adequate, but is it worth risking a £3k engine for the price of an Accusump kit - they do take up a fair bit of space tho' it's true, but yes, other than baffled sump that would be the cheapest option

spiderman01980 - 27/10/18 at 02:07 PM

but is it worth risking a £3k engine for the price of an Accusump kit


No definitely not. I may go dry sump, at least then i know i don't have to worry.

Bigboystoys - 27/10/18 at 05:20 PM

Keep the standard fuel pump just mount it into the bottom of your alloy tank, that way it also retains the fuel light if you are keeping the standard clocks. You will also need to think about clutch slave cylinder set up.

spiderman01980 - 27/10/18 at 05:59 PM

You will also need to think about clutch slave cylinder set up.



That's the only I have got. Need to get a cradle for the aries but can't seem to get an answer from the new owners.

Jon Ison - 27/10/18 at 08:39 PM

Have you got access to welding gear? Cradles not a difficult DIY task.

Sump? There's a guy running a turbo busa at sprints with a swinging pick up sump and nothing else, not something I would risk myself but even if you go accusump your going to need to "chop" the sump and even then you'll have height issues, there's only really swinging sump or dry sump that will give you any chance of getting everything under the bonnet.

Fuel depending on year, the fuel pump is either external or in tank.

Clutch, standard will be find but you need to operate it, I made my own cable set up that never failed in 8 years of use.

great engine btw,

spiderman01980 - 27/10/18 at 09:09 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
Have you got access to welding gear? Cradles not a difficult DIY task.

Sump? There's a guy running a turbo busa at sprints with a swinging pick up sump and nothing else, not something I would risk myself but even if you go accusump your going to need to "chop" the sump and even then you'll have height issues, there's only really swinging sump or dry sump that will give you any chance of getting everything under the bonnet.

Fuel depending on year, the fuel pump is either external or in tank.

Clutch, standard will be find but you need to operate it, I made my own cable set up that never failed in 8 years of use.

great engine btw,


Yes I have a welder, pillar drill, chop saw, and the scrap metal to do it but am just being a little bit lazy. Iv got a clutch set for it when I had a GPZ900 in it which I managed to get stared and reverse out of the garage and then gave up on it for years. The engine needed to much work and it was too old so I then decided to just buy a full running bike.
When I took the reverse box down to Nova in Horsham to get the seals changed and the bearnings checked, that I spoke to Mick and he advised me to get a Hayabusa as they are good light strong engines. And am lucky to know a guy that told few months ago he was selling his and being a 1 owner from new and only 20,000 miles on the clock and well looked after, I just couldn't say no.

M@rk - 28/10/18 at 08:13 AM

If you decide you want a Accusump I’ve got me for sale, hardly used with mounting brackets etc

spiderman01980 - 28/10/18 at 08:26 AM

quote:
Originally posted by M@rk
If you decide you want a Accusump I’ve got me for sale, hardly used with mounting brackets etc


I'll keep that in mind, thanks.

Its difficult to choose wich option as there is a huge price difference in the options and then you the fitment part of it also. Do I go for the easy fit at reasonable price, do I go for the mind at rest dry sump and pay the huge price tag, or do I go for the cheaper option and then go through the hussle of fitting it.

chrisbmxr - 29/10/18 at 09:47 AM

Watching!

I'm planning to swap the CBR900 lump in my MK Indy for a Busa lump once we move to our new house (which has a much bigger garage!). I'm also planning to buy a complete bike to strip down.

From what I've read the dry sump is the best way to go.

Chris.

spiderman01980 - 29/10/18 at 05:26 PM

quote:
Originally posted by chrisbmxr
Watching!

I'm planning to swap the CBR900 lump in my MK Indy for a Busa lump once we move to our new house (which has a much bigger garage!). I'm also planning to buy a complete bike to strip down.

From what I've read the dry sump is the best way to go.

Chris.


My mind is diverting me to the cheapest option but deep down I know I should choose the dearest option.
But the full kit costs a lot of money. You have one price without the oil tank at about £1,000 and wit the tank around £1600. Is the tank alone £600. Iv looked around on ebay and you can get the tank for half the price.

spiderman01980 - 29/10/18 at 05:34 PM

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump this is interesting to read. Expecially about the mercedes 300SL

Ian2812 - 2/11/18 at 11:30 AM

I'd definitely go for a dry sump. Extreme Engines one is the biz! If you have a nice well looked after low mileage engine, I would spend that bit extra and continue to look after it. They really don't like being mounted 90 degrees the wrong way and going round the corners very fast as they do. The last thing you want is to starve the engine of oil and be down the price of another engine + a dry sump kit so it doesn't happen again...(Which you should have had in the first place.)

I have just started cleaning out my garage from selling my megabusa, (see other listings from myself).
I have the Haynes manual and brand new morgan carbtune pro 4 colomn with accessories and pouch for synchronising the butterfly valves on the air intake if you are in the market for them? (Only used once.) Just pm me if you're interested.

same as this: -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARBTUNE-PRO-4-COLUMN-CARBURETOR-SYNCHRO-BALANCER-W-TOOL-POUCH-FREE-SHIPPING/222611627871?hash=item33d4afdf5f:g:lpoAAOSwxJl aoEZF:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Cheers, Ian.